My 94 ohv 4.0 has been tickin but now im getting bad mpg I changed rocker arms and push rods and its still really loose im gonna do lifter but can pull heads replace lifters gaskets and head bolts and be fine or do I have to shave the heads because I really tight for cash

 

As the valves get worn, they will generally cause the valve train clearance to decrease, not increase. Given that, it would make sense that the lifters would have less likelihood of tapping as the parts age, even less if you replace the rockers and pushrods with new having no wear.
Use the wooden handle end of a hammer, or a piece of wood to press firmly and continuously on the pushrod side of a rocker arm when the engine is at idle. You should be able to collapse the lifter and make it tap. Release, and it should cycle over a short time to close the clearance and become quiet. You should be able to narrow down which one, or more, are causing your noise. If the lifter taps all the time, you may have a stuck or leaky lifter or poor oil pressure.
I would not suspect you have to do anything to the head as long as you aren't having other problems.
tom

 

that didnt work anymore ideas lol if I replace them can I get by without shaving the heads

 

You will be fine unless the heads are warped.

 

I held the handle down on the rocker arm again and the lifter pumped up and stoped ticking and compression at an ide went from 120 to 150 on that cyl but after running alittle it colapsed again does this mean the lifter is shot??

 

Before you condemn the lifter, check the actual oil pressure. There was a cam insert wear problem on that engine. Don't know when/if it ever got 'fixed', but it caused the pressure to be low, or flow... The lifter that taps might just be the loosest lifter of the bunch, and is the weak point that demonstrates you have a different problem. Before going through the process to R&R the lifter, I'd be sure I had good oil pressure.
The symptoms of ticking / tapping after bleed down and re-fill indicate the lifter is not sealing, {or getting enough oil pressure to get full enough to stop tapping} and it has let out some oil around the inner piston, and allowed a gap to occur. The oil pressure is supposed to 'fill the gap' using pressure on the bottom of the internal piston to take up the slack in the valve train, then the ramp on the cam lobe comes around, pushes the outer lifter body up a fraction, and internally the piston is sealed, and the oil held locked in place to move the pushrod w/o clicks and clacks. If there is not enough pressure to push and keep the piston up against the pushrod, taking out the slack, the piston will have allowed some slack, and you get the taps...
tom

 

It has good oil pressure on the guage? Your over my head now lol

 

The 'gauge' that the factory installs, even the analog with a needle, is faked, unless they have changed their practice. To know the actual oil pressure in the oil gallery, you need to disconnect and remove the current pressure sensing unit, and install a mechanical gauge. Likely the sending unit is actully a 5-8 psi normally open switch. When pressure gets to 5-8psi, the switch closes, and provides ground to the gauge through a resistor on the back of the instrument panel that adjusts the needle to 'mid-range'. Unless you have a large, bulbous sensor mounted to the engine, it is fake.
I know of no other way to check pressure. If you had a 2.3, you could remove the cam cover, start the engine for a few seconds, and, after rustproofing the underside of the hood along with all engine components with crankcase lube, shut it off. They are a literal hurricane of oil under the cam cover when they are running. The 6? not so much.
tom

 

Ok I hook a real guage in it and see I just gotta get better mpg its getting 12 now and alot less power now

 

If the pressure regulator goes bananas you will get terrible mileage, just about half of normal. They can stick so the fuel pressure is too high, or they can leak through the diaphragm. They are not cheap either, so if you have a good boneyard.... figure $100+ for a new one.
IOW check your fuel pressure. I make the assumption the plugs & wires, air filter, timing, etc are all good, and tire pressure is correct and the transmission doesn't slip or stay in low gears excessively...
tom

 

Yes I put new platnum plugs in it ran seafoam in it and trans is good