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The ol reverse trick is no good. I literally have to take a crow bar and hammer to get it out. I have to wedge the bar where the linkage goes in the transfer case then smack it with a hammer. It pops loud and the truck rocks only then I can turn the hubs on the manual lockouts.
If the driveline is wound up tight enough to require a pry bar/hammer to disengage the t-case i'm surprised you haven't snapped a u-joint by this point.
just for grins and giggles, check your gear ratios in both axles. someone may have changed gears in one or both axles and they don't match. Bought a "ranger" (ranger body on a bronco frame) that had the same problem, found out that it had 3.50 gears in the front and 3.00 in the rear.
just for grins and giggles, check your gear ratios in both axles. someone may have changed gears in one or both axles and they don't match. Bought a "ranger" (ranger body on a bronco frame) that had the same problem, found out that it had 3.50 gears in the front and 3.00 in the rear.
That make a lot of sense. I will have to check on the gear ratios. The guy I bought it from two years ago said that it kicks out of 4x4 on him so he gave me an extra transfer case. I have put it in 4x4 just a few time and never had an issue. Its hard to shift the 4x4 lever but figured its because the 2wd manual trans w/ custom brackets for the 4x4 linkage. The bracket or linkage is not the case from what I know now. As far as the gear ratio being off wouldn't it have snapped my u-joints be now? I drove 4-6 miles in 4x4 to get home today.
Just went outside and messed around with the truck. I figured out a way to get back in 2wd without a prybar. If I put it in reverse, push and hold up the 4x4 shifter and slowly release the clutch. If you try in neutral, any gear or even after backing up, it won't go.