I am having some trouble with my truck, It is 02 7.3 has 330k km (just over 200k miles). Started running a little rough so i did the codes had a p0603, p1210 and p1211. Replaced the icp then started to be hard to start when warm. I had a t500 hpop and new ipr to go on so put them on. Starts now but has long crank time to start and now getting p0340, P1211 and p1212. Replaced the cps and still same. long crank to start and still same codes. Any ideas?

 

How much driving are you doing between replacing things? Every time you mess with the oil system, it takes about 100 Km of driving to clear the air out... making it a slow-crank until then.

I have two vids to share. No work has been done to the truck between the two vids, but the first one is after major work and the second one has had all the air worked out of the system.

 

that is awesome info mate. Will try a long drive see how it is. Should ad that i still been driving it but if i do glow plugs 2-3 times it would start before we replaced hpop, ipr and cps.

 

sorry but i also have to ask, why the lighter?

 

In answer to the lighter question, this is a good link for you to check out because of this topic: [LINK]

 

Did a few miles today and cleared codes. seemed to start faster, but still wont start when warm unless wait to start light is off, just kind of fires then stalls if that makes sense? changed setting on superchips and give a run. Still hard to start warm and shows code P1000? Have put on frx too in mean time(probly silly at this time) and engine seems a lot quieter!

 

thanks mate, realised after i asked that this would be why!! Great idea too!

 

OK so its been a little while, definatly running better. But still wont start when warm, even if i wait for wts light to go out(thats only after a long run maybe 50 mile). I did codes the other day and was 1 code, P1000. Now after maybe 150 miles its back to P0603, P1210. p1211 and p0781. Any ideas?

 

Poor/no run when warm has been brought up frequently lately and nobody has posted results to their fix (yet). Oil has a higher weight when warm and and that typically makes for better starting when warm. P1211 is ICP too low when running, but P1210 is ICP too high when NOT running. That has ICP sensor written all over it, but you replaced it. Maybe you have a bad/dirty connection. That P1000 is a concern, it says the OBD was unable to complete an internal checklist. P0603 is a fixture in my truck, so I have been ignoring it until somebody says that's a problem. Po781 says you have a problem with the 1-2 shift - I'm sure you want to hear of potential problems with the transmission.

I wonder if anybody out there has any ideas. In the meantime, I have some good reading in the last two links in my signature. How many Km or miles on the vehicle?

 

Haha yeah trans is always a prob with a 4r100 until you get a bts or jw. Brian(chunderdownunder) brought up glow plugs or glow plug relay, since they are cheap and vehicle has 330k km's(over 200k miles) I may just replace them. I have been thinking some inconsistent contact among wiring somewhere? Seems strange that will throw a code one day and not the next or not?

 

Could a new icp sensor be bad?

 

200K miles... there it is. You're due for injectors, you're getting ICP codes, and you're having poor start issues: That's a trifecta. It sounds like you've done all you can before new injectors. You might be able to replace the injector O-rings to extend their life a bit more (20K - 40K more miles), but you're due. Are you getting any "banging" under the hood that goes away with deceleration or downhill? Smokey starts?

 

I had a mate drive truck and he noticed a noise under hood, he described more a clacking( if that's a word) than a banging. How do I test injectors?

 

There is an injector link in my signature. Bad O-rings can give many of the same symptoms as bad injectors - smokey starts, poor/no start, low ICP... plus a few extra goodies like oil in the fuel bowl. The "clacking" can either be air in your fuel - usually #8, left-rear (left is still left down there, right?), or one injector protesting having to keep going. In the case of air in fuel, see the Hutch mod in my signature.

 

okay, so ive done a few more miles, there is a definat clicking under the hood. Only when under light acceleration (or that i can hear). seems to start ok now as long as wts light is off. Still codes 1212 1211.