I'll start with I'm absolutely not a mechanic by any means, I can however follow directions if they are simple... I was able to do the "quarter fix" for my valve cover pin problem for my injectors a few years back.

So last few times starting truck it would turn over but not really "fire" until 3 tries or so. I've had the CEL for my "even side" glow plugs for some time. They all came on at the same time so I figured it was the relay and since I live in southern CA wasnt worried about it. All was ok until we drove to Big Bear and spent 3 days in the snow and well below freezing temps.

Went to start and no luck. turns but no fire. End up toasting batteries and starter trying. Get towed home, replaced the bad battery (not both, just the one autozone would replace, they said other was still good... i know..) and starter, truck fires right up blows white smoke for a while, I take it for a drive and smoking stops. truck starts fine and drives great. Next morning its 32 degrees and no start. plug in block heater for 3 days try to start in 58 degree and no luck. turns but no fire.

Stranded in the driveway...

 

Your fuel may of gelled up and clogged up the filter. What have you checked so far? I would start with fuses, oil, fuel delivery.

 

I was just reading about the fuel gelling up... I think I got hung up on the GPCM. The battery issue and then starter only complicated it. As of now i'm headed out to check the fuel filter and see if it's gelled. I did open the water seperator and fuel came out without issue. If i was able to start it 3 days ago and it hasn't been below say 35 degrees since would the fuel still gel? and if so how can I tell besides the fuel filter?

Thanks for helping....

 

How's your battery voltage when you're cranking?

You need a minimum of 10.5 volts while cranking to start.

 

any help on which fuses to check? I'll try to find a diagram

 

battery voltage good, rpm's go to around 200 then drop back down

 

Just because it cranks over good doesn't mean it's sufficient voltage to start, because it has to fire the injectors as well. Without 10.5 volts, no dice no matter how fast if turns over.

 

fuel filter looks good so does all fuel in the filter area

 

so you're saying watch for significant drop when cranking? on the voltometer in dash? mine has wide ranges, not real specific numbers but i'll go see how much it drops when cranking...

 

No, I'm saying since a new battery apparently solved your problem once before, check battery voltage with a real voltmeter while it's cranking. The dash one is worthless.

 

got it. I'll try that and see what happens. I did check for smoke while cranking and got none. I'm gonna try to jump from another car (on the none replaced battery) and see if it works

 

no luck with jumping from another car on old (7/12) battery, which was on drivers side. I'll have to borrow a buddies voltmeter and see what happens. until then i'll check fuses.

 

At that those temps I'm sure your fuel did gel up. It only happened once on my truck when it was in the single digits. I didn't have any problems after adding the 911 and it warmed up a bit. Check out this link: DIESEL 9?1?1® For Winter Emergencies: Winter Rescue Formula ? use to reliquefy gelled fuel and de-ice frozen fuel-filters.

 

I think the ford manuals says around 9.5v. I'm curious where the 10.5 came from? Maybe the internet and it has to be true... I think other factors like temp would also be a factor.

 

I'll look into the 911 a little more and still gonna check batteries while cranking. Start a 48hr shift tomorrow so it'll have to wait till Friday. I did check all the fuses and they are all good.