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Put it all in myself and after several long hours (and skinned and swollen hands) I cranked it over and is doesn't start. I thought it might be the issue so I went over all the sensors and they are all plugged in. I though it might be the ICP sensor on the valve cover or the one that comes off of the HPOP so I disconnected them and tried again.. No start. I checked the fuel filter and it's getting pressure so I don't think the problem with fuel. I checked my FICM and it is fine.
Is there any tests I can perform that would narrow down what the problem could be. I though there would be some code on my display but not so lucky.
Has anyone done these types of upgrades and experienced the same thing.
I'm really trying to avoid throwing up the white flag and towing it to the shop.\
Wow that's along time, I only cranked 3 or 4 times for about 7 to 10 seconds each time. My batteries ran out and now they are charging. I will try again. once charged. When you say 2 to 3 minutes you mean off and on right?
Don't do it in more than 10 second or so bursts you don't wanna damage the starter and keep the batteries charged if the run low, just like you are doing and you will eventually get it. You have to completely fill the oil rails before she will roar to life. If you have gauges watch the ICP pressure she wont go until she hits 500. BTW Benny and Mark have ya covered I just thought I would 3rd it
Wow that's along time, I only cranked 3 or 4 times for about 7 to 10 seconds each time. My batteries ran out and now they are charging. I will try again. once charged. When you say 2 to 3 minutes you mean off and on right?
I would say yes, off and on so you do not burn up your starter.
Using this method of cranking to fill the HPO system. What I am not sure of is if the IRP will let the HPOP fill without the key on. If so then this would be more efficient because all the Batt power goes to cranking, and not glow plugs, fuel pump, FICM ect. Batteries last longer.
Yes it takes Alot especialy if you had the Wavey oil rails
These starters are heavey Duty and honestly a few 20-30 second Blasts would be Fine
Iv even seen a few videos where guys just Lay on the starter untill it starts
The Folks that get into trouble are the ones that get it back together and there is a Problem and after a few minutes they get Desperate for it to start and have been cranking on it for 20-30 minutes pretty Heavey
Dont be scared 20-30second Blasts are not a Problem then check the Oil leval on the dipstick. Im thinking 3-5 20second blasts and you will have it
However sounds like your Batterys are Weak and died off pretty Fast so would be Good to get a Battery Hydrometer and check each cell this is as good of test as any load test you would remove the batts for and take to autoparts store. The Only bonus is you dont have to remove them from the truck
The last set of batterys I had under warrenty I took in and told them I did the Hydro test and found Bad Cells they didnt even Bother to check them on there Equiptment and just gave me some New Ones
Using this method of cranking to fill the HPO system. What I am not sure of is if the IRP will let the HPOP fill without the key on. If so then this would be more efficient because all the Batt power goes to cranking, and not glow plugs, fuel pump, FICM ect. Batteries last longer.
I give you credit where credit is due, for using your brain. I never would've thought of that idea. However, the downside to it is in answer to your question highlighted in bold red. And the answer to that is no unfortunately. Without the PCM powered up, the IPR defaults to the open (exhaust all high pressure oil pump output to the crankcase) position, unless you supply your own power and ground to it.
I give you credit where credit is due, for using your brain. I never would've thought of that idea. However, the downside to it is in answer to your question highlighted in bold red. And the answer to that is no unfortunately. Without the PCM powered up, the IPR defaults to the open (exhaust all high pressure oil pump output to the crankcase) position, unless you supply your own power and ground to it.
Thanks M-Chan, I guess the best way is to remove FICM relay and crank until you see some pressure on SG2. You could also remove glow plug relay, if there is one. Removing glow plugs would make it spin faster, but is dangerous.
So, I am about to be in this same situation. All the work done and its time to crank her over. What could you do to ensure the batteries arent going to die. Mine have been unplugged for about two days now. I have a battery charger.
Yes , I think I do Have battery Issues, I'm going to get a couple new ones tomorrow. I guess I can't ask much more than 8 years out of the factory ones.
8 years. holy cow. I am on my 3rd set in 8 years. Motorcrafts died back in 2009. but then again when it started cranking slow I just replaced them to avoid FICM or other damage.