No start after upgrade
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,760
Likes: 21
But it Will NOT Help as the FICM will Not engauge/Fire the injectors untill the PCM Sees enough ICP pressure
So a ICP of 500psi or Better
Going to all this trouble isnt necassery the computer will do this same thing on its own
I have had my HPO System apart and empty several times and Never ran the Batterys Dead trying to start it
with the little amount of Cranking he did before Batterys went dead I am thinking he might have Battery problems
So a ICP of 500psi or Better
Going to all this trouble isnt necassery the computer will do this same thing on its own
I have had my HPO System apart and empty several times and Never ran the Batterys Dead trying to start it
with the little amount of Cranking he did before Batterys went dead I am thinking he might have Battery problems
Sorry about the hijack.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 944
Likes: 0
From: Happy Valley, Oregon
Seriously???? 8 years??? I replace mine like clock work, every 2 years as I run lots of electrical equip. ie amps and lights. Had the ruck since new in 05 and only have 81,000 on it. Do you use a battery tender or something?
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
No battery tender but in the last year I've had to throw it on the charger once a month as they weren't holding a charge for too long. the truck sits most of the time. I bought the truck at 25,000 miles and they had Ford ones in already so worst case is they were changed just before bought the truck but i doubt it.
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
every body, thanks so much for your posts. I put the new batteries in and cranked for 20 seconds straight and it fired. Wow a lot of weight lifted off my shoulders. New problem now. After I stop it for 10 minutes or so it takes another 20 second crank to start it up. again. What would that be? A faulty sensor? I also now have a check engine light which I never had before.
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
No I didn't drive it, just ran it for 10 min then shut down. Funny thing is the oil pressure comes up on the gauge 4 seconds in on the crank then it takes a few more seconds of cranking to start. I wouldn't have thought of an air bubble in the system. Is that quite common? I'm looking at pulling my turbo out again and open up the HPOP to see if I could find anything. I did replace the STC fitting with a new Ford one. and was SURE to torqued the bolts properly. Definitely want to explore other avenues before pulling things out again.
Thanks, Todd
Thanks, Todd
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 944
Likes: 0
From: Happy Valley, Oregon
I would run it. I pulled my motor all the way out and did everything. Was hard to start and when we got it started we went out and ran it pretty good and then it started a little hard again but ran great after that. Did the SCT fitting as that was a worry. Mine ran great before I tore it down other then the EGR cooler. Deleted that and everything else I could think of i replaced so I hope it runs for along time. Did that at 57,000 miles
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,599
Likes: 2
From: Farmington NM
you have to drive it. run the **** out if it. you have to make a few full throttle passes to purge all of the air.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,505
Likes: 256
From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
Take the truck out and drive it for at least 20 miles doing several full, wide open throttle accelerations to get the engine fully hot and that will resolve the extended engine cranking you describe.
Once you've done that, scan the truck for code(s) to see what the "Check Engine" light coming on is regarding and repair as needed.
Once you've done that, scan the truck for code(s) to see what the "Check Engine" light coming on is regarding and repair as needed.
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
You guys are great I was very concerned when looking at my truck tonight but I will run hard this weekend to hopefully get the air bubbles out. For the guys that have experienced this, has the air bubble issue come along with a check engine light? I wonder if the code was for my EGR, I did the delete but left the EGR in place and hooked up to hopefully throw no codes.
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,061
Likes: 238
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
See I knew you would get it Congrats
To much just happened to the truck to say with Any certainty why the CEL is on
could be air bubble (I have never had a CEL from air pocket But this dont mean much)
could be EGR Deleate (Although I dont think EGR Gases are routed back into the intake at Idel so the PCM shouldnt have been Looking for it Yet)
Could be from Weak Batterys (Strange things happen with Low Power)
COuld be Anything at this Point
To Purge any Air Pockets from the HPO system drive it and do a few Spirited axcelerations
While you drive it stop by Autozone or Oreilys to get Codes read they do it Free
To much just happened to the truck to say with Any certainty why the CEL is on
could be air bubble (I have never had a CEL from air pocket But this dont mean much)
could be EGR Deleate (Although I dont think EGR Gases are routed back into the intake at Idel so the PCM shouldnt have been Looking for it Yet)
Could be from Weak Batterys (Strange things happen with Low Power)
COuld be Anything at this Point
To Purge any Air Pockets from the HPO system drive it and do a few Spirited axcelerations
While you drive it stop by Autozone or Oreilys to get Codes read they do it Free
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 206
Likes: 1
From: Chico, ca
just went through this. I was concerned also, but took the advice on this board and just ran it. It took a little while to burp all the air, but after a day or 2 it was better then before the upgrades. Mine starts within a few seconds now. Just like when It was new. As many have said, Run the heck out of it and it will be fine.
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
Wow you guys are the best !! Took it for a good run today and crossed my fingers for the first restart and with in a couple turnovers it fired up! In fact it fires up quicker than it originally did as dr67 mentioned. Unfortunately one problem down, and another arose. I've got no boost now. Truck feels way under powered and on full throttle all I get is maybe 4 psi on the factory gauge. In fact, off the start I get nothing until i hit a certain RPM then it kicks in to 4 psi. I've been going through 'no boost' posts and it sounds like the biggest culprit is the connections between the exhaust pipes at the turbo. I will check them in the morning with a cold engine and see if i can feel pressure bleeding out anywhere.The truck is also now showing an engine light which I'm guessing is from the EGR delete. Would A reprogram with a sct scanner or something get rid of it?
Certified Thread Hijacker
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 14,441
Likes: 60
Wow you guys are the best !! Took it for a good run today and crossed my fingers for the first restart and with in a couple turnovers it fired up! In fact it fires up quicker than it originally did as dr67 mentioned. Unfortunately one problem down, and another arose. I've got no boost now. Truck feels way under powered and on full throttle all I get is maybe 4 psi on the factory gauge. In fact, off the start I get nothing until i hit a certain RPM then it kicks in to 4 psi. I've been going through 'no boost' posts and it sounds like the biggest culprit is the connections between the exhaust pipes at the turbo. I will check them in the morning with a cold engine and see if i can feel pressure bleeding out anywhere.The truck is also now showing an engine light which I'm guessing is from the EGR delete. Would A reprogram with a sct scanner or something get rid of it?
If the y-pipe is misaligned I'm sure you would smell exhaust pretty bad. I broke the y-pipe to turbo clamp and had a massive exhaust leak, but still had decent boost. Enough to go ahead and drive the truck to the dealer for a new clamp, driving Ace Ventura style because fo the exhaust smell.
Josh