Replacing Glow plugs.
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Cross-Country
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Replacing Glow plugs.
1990 7.3 replacing glow plugs and have heard you have to remove valve covers. Is this necessary? Do I need a special socket wrench? Haven't gotten a manual yet so any help would be appreciated.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Poway, CA
Nope. I believe that's a trait of the Powerstrokes, but not us. I recommend a 6-pt deep socket (I forget which size), a u-joint adapter, a 3" extension, and the appropriate wrench. I recommend 1/4" drive so as not to overdo it.
Mike
Mike
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From: Denver, CO
Not a hard job, sometimes getting the wires back on can be the hardest part! I think it is a 10mm deep socket that you need, and like whiteboy said 1/4 inch drives are the easiest to maneuver in there. You might want some shop air to blow out the holes so crud doesn't fall into your cylinders. Loosen the plug to break the gunk loose, then blow it out. Make sure you start the threads on the plugs by hand so you don't strip any threads. Just put it in the socket, get it to the hole, and turn the extension by hand until you know it is threaded right.
Good luck,
Mac.
P.S. to be sure, you are using Motorcraft Beru plugs right?
Good luck,
Mac.
P.S. to be sure, you are using Motorcraft Beru plugs right?
Posting Guru
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The glow plugs on the idis are near the injectors, They have one wire that slides on to them. They are kind of a pain but you can get them with out taking off the injector lines.
If you want to test them before taking them out. Set your voltmeter to ohms. put one test lead on the glow plug post and the other to the block. if you have a conection they are ok.
The 7.3 Di power strokes are under the vale covers.
If you want to test them before taking them out. Set your voltmeter to ohms. put one test lead on the glow plug post and the other to the block. if you have a conection they are ok.
The 7.3 Di power strokes are under the vale covers.
Clueless spectator!
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Denver, CO
Set your voltmeter to ohms. put one test lead on the glow plug post and the other to the block. if you have a conection they are ok.
Not trying to step on your toes or anything, but I am not sure that is entirely correct. In the test procedure described in the sticky at the top of the main page, you are looking for between .5 and 1 ohm of resistance. If you have no resistance at all, I don't think a plug will produce heat, which is what it's purpose is. I am no expert, but it seems that some resistance is necessary, much in the way an extension cord will get hot, when you run too many amps through a cord too small.
Posting Guru
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When a pulg is bad there wont be a connetion at all, was my point. You are right ressitance is nessicary. I never had one that still had a connect that didn't work.
I should have said use contuity or the diode test. most tester beep when there is a conection on those settings. My beeps on ohms, but I forgot that is not comman.
I should have said use contuity or the diode test. most tester beep when there is a conection on those settings. My beeps on ohms, but I forgot that is not comman.
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Fleet Mechanic
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From: 8600 ft in Colo
Most of the time when they go out, they're open. (No continuity to ground)
They can short out, though, and can have low or no resistance to ground...
They can short out, though, and can have low or no resistance to ground...
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Cross-Country
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I changed them out with Motorcraft last night. They were very easy. I got lucky I changed all 8 and installed a new radiator with upper and lower hoses in about 2 and a half hours. There was 3 Beru and 5 champion. Just got home from work so ill see if it worked. (The not starting part).
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Cross-Country
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No, It still wont start. I guess its time to get a meter out. If I crank and crank and crank it will eventually fire. lots of white smoke while cranking. My wait to start light has never come on. I think it may be out.
Clueless spectator!
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Denver, CO
Before you drop dollars on a GPC, read through the glow plug thread at the top of the main page. They can be tested. A new GPC is around 100 bucks, a relay around 40. If it were me, I would drop the 140 for both and know that you have replaced them, but sometimes the money just isn't there. For me a no start in the AM on a 10 degree work day costs me a days pay, so 140 is cheap insurance. The thing I hate most about owning a 20 year old truck is the UNKNOWN! I try to buy new not rebuilt parts, and do my homework, but there is always something! But no payments...Priceless!
Good luck,
Mac.
Good luck,
Mac.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2005
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I prefer the manual button myself, no worries about electronics failing.
I had a fairly new controller on the '84 go bad, it turned the plugs on while the truck was warmed up on the freeway going to work.
Got new GPs and the next controller I got from IH. Didn't have a problem again, worked great up to the day I sold it.
Ever since then though I just put the manual switch in and forget about the electronics.
I had a fairly new controller on the '84 go bad, it turned the plugs on while the truck was warmed up on the freeway going to work.
Got new GPs and the next controller I got from IH. Didn't have a problem again, worked great up to the day I sold it.Ever since then though I just put the manual switch in and forget about the electronics.