My 2100 is wore out, not worth rebuilding again IMO.

Im going to go with a 600cfm 4v on my 66 352.

Im looking for realiabilty, driveabilty, and economy.

Is it worth the $350 for an aluminum manifold, or should I use the cast manifold off my parts 390 that I already own?

I would buy used, but I have looked for a couple months, and with shipping a used manifold runs close to what a new one runs. I havent found anything used local.

Im doing the manifold, carb, HEI, head refresh, and headers all at the same time.

 

I would go with the cast iron, for a driver you do not need the aluminum manifold, that is my opion. I use cast iron on all the FE engines that I drive and the 2 460's that I have in my trucks. For the cost against the the gains, does not pay off.

 

Im thinking the same way. Im not doing the work, I dont want to lift teh manifold and heads.

How long do ceramic coat headers stay nice looking? $410 for a set with 3/8 flanges. I would like to have them, but not if they will look like crap after a couple years. A set of painted headers runs about $150 less.

 

I don't know about ceramic coated headers; the only set that I have were painted, but they have been on my 66 F100 4x4 sense 1980. Needless to say, they are not painted anymore!!!

 

Any idea what the difference is between the Flowtech 32540 and 32542 headers?

The pic shows that the pipes are bent differently. Is one better than the other for a 66?

 

Sorry I don't know anything about Flowtech 32540 and 32542 headers, If your truck is 2wd watch for how close the pipe is to the starter, 4wd watch how the pipes go around the engine mount

32540 for a 2wd truck, 32542 is for 4wd truck

 

i agree.
with that said, if you could find an S-code...

unless you're running a race truck, saving a few pounds isn't worth hundreds of dollars.

 

No need for a S intake, you wont be able to tell the difference in any LR FE 4v intake based on your application. Pick any Truck or Car 4V you can find. Craigslist.org is a good place to check as AL comes up from time to time for good prices. Saves you the greasy nails and frustration at a P&P. I used a C4AE9425 (cast#?) Puta holley 4160 on it, and did some light port work as the head had a burnt Ex valve already. Whole different engine!! She was in tolerance everywhere due to PO taking great care, so it was a easy rebuild.


Jenny 66 F100 Photos by GrumpyBobby | Photobucket

 

That's only on the '66 F100.

 

Yes, my 66 the header on the passenger side header came in 3 pieses and went around the engine mount.

 

Why go to headers anyway? If I had some decent OEM cast-iron exhaust manifolds, I'd get them sandblasted and put a good high-temp silver paint on them and run them INSTEAD of the headers. The manifolds put less heat into the engine compartment (sparkplug wires will last longer), less heat into the floorboards (read that was DANG HOT when idling in the heat of summer), less heat into the starter (meaning your starter will last longer), and the head-to-manifold gaskets tend to last longer with cast manifolds than steel headers. You can still install dual exhaust with the stock exhaust manifolds if you want "the sound of the FE". It's easier to keep the exhaust pipes tucked up when passing by the trans crossmember. I seriously doubt you'd notice any fuel mileage or seat-of-pants power gains in a daily driver by simply running headers.

BarnieTrk

 

First year FoMoCo offered an optional 4V w/a 390 in F100/350's: 1974 (1974/76 VIN engine code M).

Get a 4V intake manifold from a Ford/Merc Passenger Car: 1965/71 390 or 1966/70 428.

 

Some clarification:

I have a 75 F100 parts truck with a 390/3 spd that I bought just for parts.

I bought it for the disc brakes and 3 speed column shift power steering.

It also came with new never installed LMC dual exhaust, underbed gas tank, and fuel lines.

I have installed the dual exhaust with both Summit turbos and the LMC supplied glass paks. Its whisper quiet, just like I like it.

I plan on useing the 4v intake on my 352 with a Summit 600cfm 4v, thats why I started this thread, I already own the cast 4v intake.

Im pulling the ps and getting it ready for a spring install.

The disc brakes and front sway bar are going to wait awhile since I just did all 4 drums and they work perfectly.

Im having the 390 heads refreshed for $150 and putting them on the 352 as well.

In one shot I am doing the intake manifold, 4v, heads, and HEI.

Im stripping everything off the parts truck I may be able to use later and storing it in a shed. 390, tranny, starter, waterpump ect.

My 352 is probabley now a 360+, there is a metal tag rivited on the lower driver side of the block that says "remanufactured by Ford". I have no idea when this was done or how many miles ago.

 

I Have the ceramic coated headers from Sanderson... the ceramic coating keeps the heat traveling down the pipe, they don't get very hot, not nearly as hot as the manifolds did, I actually saw a temp drop in the cooling system.. that is the whole point to ceramic coating... I have had mine for 2 years now, I got the aluminized ceramic (looks like Polished aluminum) coating. The headers cost $425 and I think they still do... they look like brand new and cleaning is done with Windex and a rag, takes about 2 minutes... they don't come very close to the starter so no heat issue there either. they did smell a bit for the first few days but nothing horrible...

 

Im considering the headers, Im not so sure that I want to spend the extra $400+ having them installed.

I am having some health issues and am not able to do any work myself. Im still in the process of having the doc figure out what is wrong with me so any work that gets done, I have to pay for the labor. I have a good indy shop here, so the cost of labor isnt killing me, but it does increase the cost of every project.