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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 09:05 PM
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Sound proof?

Ok so awhile back i put in zillamat, and mass loaded vinyl on the floor boards under the carpet. The doors and roof and fire wall are also lined with just zilla mat. It still zeems really frigin noisy in the cab. Mainly from the firewall i think and the electric fuel pump on the frame Is there something i can put on the engine side of the fire wall to make it all quieter? Whatever i put on there needs to be able to be removed when my truck goes in for paint late this next summer i hope.

Also, this fuel pump is almost lined up with np205 but obviously on the frame and makes a cruz load of vibration noise. I put little rubber gromets inbetween it and the frame but its still noisy. Any ideas? New pump isnt an option at the moment.

So is rustoleum spray in bed liner safe to put on the firewall and is it removable?
 
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 09:18 PM
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From: Lost In a Pit of Despair
I think bedliner would melt in the heat. Thought about using lizard skin or Al's HNR? those are both heat resistant sound deadening coatings.


Jameson
 
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by jgavac
I think bedliner would melt in the heat. Thought about using lizard skin or Al's HNR? those are both heat resistant sound deadening coatings.


Jameson
Hmm never heard of either of that stuff? Is it cheap and easy to put on?
 
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 09:31 PM
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do you have the fuel pump rubber mounted or mounted directly to the frame? rubber mount should make it quieter. Don't forget you can soundproof the entire cab and it still won't be as quiet as a new one more then likely.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 09:32 PM
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From: Lost In a Pit of Despair
Lizard skin is on the expensive side. You have insulation and sound control layers. You can apply both or one or the other.

Al's HNR is cheaper. Both are roll on
 
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 09:33 PM
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Lizard skin is a little bit expensive but its well worth it.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 09:36 PM
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Hmm interesting. Ill look them up really quick. And as for the fuel pump, its two bolts through the frame, then a rubber bushing on each, then the fuel pump bracket, then the nuts and lock washers.

Also, i read on some other forumns that they sprayed LineX. Whats the temp tolerence on the do it yourself cans at home depot?

Here is an interesting one. How much noise do you think might actualy be coming from behind my bench seat? Ive thought about like removing the rear window and putting some kinda foam down in there or just pressing on some mass loaded vinyl behind the seat. Not sure what to do there....
 
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 11:58 PM
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Originally Posted by SuperDuty93
Hmm interesting. Ill look them up really quick. And as for the fuel pump, its two bolts through the frame, then a rubber bushing on each, then the fuel pump bracket, then the nuts and lock washers.

Also, i read on some other forumns that they sprayed LineX. Whats the temp tolerence on the do it yourself cans at home depot?

Here is an interesting one. How much noise do you think might actualy be coming from behind my bench seat? Ive thought about like removing the rear window and putting some kinda foam down in there or just pressing on some mass loaded vinyl behind the seat. Not sure what to do there....
Did you use the 1/8" mass loaded vinyl coupled with the closed cell insulation or just the mlv by itself on top of the zillamat? You really need to use the mlv that is already coupled with the closed cell insulation throughout the cab. If not, then you need to add a layer of a 3/8" either closed cell neoprene type insulation or the foil jute backed insulation. Somethng dense and not the bubble or open cell stuff. If you only used the mlv and zillamat, then you have a lot of sound and vibration dampner but no real insulation as a sound barrier. I would add a layer of the zillamat, 3/8" closed cell insulation, and mlv along the inside of your rear cab wall behind the seat. Use aluminum tape to tape all of your seams to ensure that sound cannot carry through. When I did this to my 72 F250, it went from a hollow tin can to like driving a Buick. I also did the ceiling and door cavities and panels. I also sprayed HD "professional" undercoating underneath the cab and inside the door cavities/outside panel. Also installed new door weather stripping. HUGE difference. I'm not kidding, for a 40 yo truck, it was super quiet.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2013 | 12:15 AM
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There was a sale on rubberized rocker guard at Canadian Tire and I bought a dozen rattle cans. Used it on the firewall and inside the cab from as high as possible up on the inside of firewall, floor and 2/3's the way up the back wall of the cab. Not removeable but can be painted over. Used it lightly and will probly add a second coat. The thin 1/8" coat seems to work pretty good and no melting on firewall. Also took out fender liners and did inside of wheel wells, got rid of the echo chamber effect. You don't have Canadian Tire but you got rubberized rocker guard. Be careful theres 2 types, one does'nt harden up.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2013 | 12:17 AM
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Originally Posted by 74 F350 SCS
Did you use the 1/8" mass loaded vinyl coupled with the closed cell insulation or just the mlv by itself on top of the zillamat? You really need to use the mlv that is already coupled with the closed cell insulation throughout the cab. If not, then you need to add a layer of a 3/8" either closed cell neoprene type insulation or the foil jute backed insulation. Somethng dense and not the bubble or open cell stuff. If you only used the mlv and zillamat, then you have a lot of sound and vibration dampner but no real insulation as a sound barrier. I would add a layer of the zillamat, 3/8" closed cell insulation, and mlv along the inside of your rear cab wall behind the seat. Use aluminum tape to tape all of your seams to ensure that sound cannot carry through. When I did this to my 72 F250, it went from a hollow tin can to like driving a Buick. I also did the ceiling and door cavities and panels. I also sprayed HD "professional" undercoating underneath the cab and inside the door cavities/outside panel. Also installed new door weather stripping. HUGE difference. I'm not kidding, for a 40 yo truck, it was super quiet.

The MLV i used has like a 2 ply thing. One is hard the other layer is kinda like a foam?

And hmm ok ill have to put it behind the seat then for sure. Whats going to suck is buying more zillamat when it gets painted in a year or so Oh well.

Where did you get ur spray for under the cab? And will it be removable eventualy when they redo my truck?

And im currently replacing the weatherstripping
 
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Old Feb 21, 2013 | 12:18 AM
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Originally Posted by privateer, eh
There was a sale on rubberized rocker guard at Canadian Tire and I bought a dozen rattle cans. Used it on the firewall and inside the cab from as high as possible up on the inside of firewall, floor and 2/3's the way up the back wall of the cab. Not removeable but can be painted over. Used it lightly and will probly add a second coat. The thin 1/8" coat seems to work pretty good and no melting on firewall. Also took out fender liners and did inside of wheel wells, got rid of the echo chamber effect. You don't have Canadian Tire but you got rubberized rocker guard. Be careful theres 2 types, one does'nt harden up.

Have a link to the right stuff?
 
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Old Feb 21, 2013 | 02:04 AM
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The can says www.dominionsureseal.com , Premium rubberized rocker guard. Comes in black or biege, sticks like that duraguard ford uses. says paintable when dry, soundproofs and insulates. customer help line 1-800-265-0790. It's strong enough to use on my frame and it's dry to touch in 15 I painted over it 2 hours later, used it on my bumper to, no chips in about 400 miles. The only kind of name on the can is Rocker Guard
 
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