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Finally Fixing Those Reverse Lights

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Old Mar 2, 2013 | 01:08 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by D8chumley
Birthday money is burning a hole in my pocket What is the difference between the SR-M and the SR-M2 besides $50? I'm sure its more powerful, but the description on Rigids site is the same for both lights
EDIT: I am thinking of just getting the SR-M with the mounting bracket. I'm leary of cutting holes in my bumper, and if I get a newer truck some day I can take the SR-M off
Happy B-Day!

As for the difference between the "M" and "M2", M2's actually have 3 LED's in them and use the Specter Lenses versus the hybrid lenses for the "M". They put out more lumens and have a wider flood of light. I figured that my "M" was already overkill for reversing and after living with these lights, I still agree with that assessment. I also wanted to reduce the amperage overage since I decided to tap straight into the reverse light circuit. I was torn over mounting solutions as well, but I just loved the clean look of flush-mounted lights so I went that way. If I ever sell my truck, someone's going to be lucky .
 
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Old Mar 2, 2013 | 01:32 PM
  #32  
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I do like the flush mount look as well, I'm on the fence over whether I want to cut holes in the bumper or not. One other issue to consider, marine or not? I like the idea of salt resistance but don't like the white surround. Decisions, decisions Thanks for the birthday wishes also!
EDIT: So are you saying you think you could've gotten away with the "M"?
 
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Old Mar 2, 2013 | 11:07 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by D8chumley
I do like the flush mount look as well, I'm on the fence over whether I want to cut holes in the bumper or not. One other issue to consider, marine or not? I like the idea of salt resistance but don't like the white surround. Decisions, decisions Thanks for the birthday wishes also!
EDIT: So are you saying you think you could've gotten away with the "M"?
Actually, that's what I'm running is just the regular M's (see first pic first page). With seeing how much light is putout, I can only imagine the M2's lighting up much much more, if you live deep in the woods you may even see sasquatch while backing up.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2013 | 11:11 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by dgspark123
I had a pair of the Rigid lights mounted on the tow bar, they were woking great for about 6 months. Suddenlly they went out, checked fuses, bulbs, relays. Does anyone know where the switch on the trans is and could this be the problem.

Thanks
Wish I knew, however on your setup are your regular reversal lights coming on and just the rigids not working?
Where did you tap-in for power/on-signal?
Did you test your relay (if you're running one)?
Is you signal wire running hot for your rigids? Or is it the power source that's not putting out?
 
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Old Mar 3, 2013 | 07:54 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Jus2shy
Actually, that's what I'm running is just the regular M's (see first pic first page). With seeing how much light is putout, I can only imagine the M2's lighting up much much more, if you live deep in the woods you may even see sasquatch while backing up.
Right, With all the back and forth I forgot which ones you actually had. I am leaning towards the ones with the mounting brackets instead of flush mounting. I am going to check with the CFO, maybe I will order them later today. Thanks for answering all my questions
EDIT: BOOM! Just pulled the trigger on the surface mount SR-M diffused
 
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 08:54 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Jus2shy
Wish I knew, however on your setup are your regular reversal lights coming on and just the rigids not working?
Where did you tap-in for power/on-signal?
Did you test your relay (if you're running one)?
Is you signal wire running hot for your rigids? Or is it the power source that's not putting out?

Nothing is working, the lights were tapped into the factory reverse light. I check load and all seemed fine at the time of install.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 07:04 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by dgspark123
Nothing is working, the lights were tapped into the factory reverse light. I check load and all seemed fine at the time of install.
Can't offer much help without knowing your wiring setup. Also, are your regular reversing lights working as well without your rigids? If not, then I think you're right in that it could be a switch or something for the reverse system. Will probably have to look at alldata or look at an FSM to see how the reverse system is handled, what/where is the switch and so-on. Also, how many amps does your light-bar pull? I know that I put an additional 1.24 amps of load on my reversing setup with my configuration. I figure that's safe.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2013 | 12:40 PM
  #38  
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I got a little quality "ME" time today after the CFO went to work Heres my set-up. Thanks especially to Jus2shy for the idea, I just went with a different mount. Not much of a choice for existing holes, so here's where I mounted mine. I also wired mine into the trailer plug, center wire on the 7-pin, white w/black tracer- on MY truck. I figured if I messed it up I could always buy a new pigtail



Side view




Wired up and testing



I can't wait until tonight to see how they work. I did debate for a few minutes whether to not tie them directly into the reverse lights. They come with a nice illuminated rocker switch, but the wires would've been too short since I mounted them on the back. Sorry to hijack this thread, just wanted to show a different mounting for the same lights. Thanks again to Jus2shy!
 
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Old Mar 20, 2013 | 06:37 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by D8chumley
I got a little quality "ME" time today after the CFO went to work Heres my set-up. Thanks especially to Jus2shy for the idea, I just went with a different mount. Not much of a choice for existing holes, so here's where I mounted mine. I also wired mine into the trailer plug, center wire on the 7-pin, white w/black tracer- on MY truck. I figured if I messed it up I could always buy a new pigtail



Side view




Wired up and testing



I can't wait until tonight to see how they work. I did debate for a few minutes whether to not tie them directly into the reverse lights. They come with a nice illuminated rocker switch, but the wires would've been too short since I mounted them on the back. Sorry to hijack this thread, just wanted to show a different mounting for the same lights. Thanks again to Jus2shy!
Nice, I was on the fence on flush versus regular mount. Heck, I think it'd be nice to see more people post what they did and the performance of their solution since this is a universal problem with our F-150's. . The nice thing with those mounts is you can still swivel/pivot them around for that perfect aim while my flush mounts are locked-in for life (though I'm perfectly happy with the performance/light distribution). For those that wanted to get technical, I posted my camera settings when I took photos if they wanted to direct compare.

More people posting would only give more ideas to more people on how to tackle this problem. Get some nice night shots in.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2013 | 09:34 PM
  #40  
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Just got home from the gym- around 10pm, pics with the same 5 MP cell camera as the day shots. The road is approx 10 yards and the embankment you can just about see beyond the road is a lil more than 20 yards, paced off by foot



This is about the far side of the road, roughly 20 yards standing off to the side



Overall I am very pleased and I think it was money well spent There will be no guessing that I am backing up
 
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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 10:25 AM
  #41  
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It was pretty straight forward. It comes with plenty of wire and I tapped into the reverse lights. . I decided to solder and use heat shrink instead of using the connector it came with. ( sorry for the lack of vocabulary this morning, Not enough coffee)<O</O<O</O
The original screws that hold the licenses plate on will not fit with the plastic cover on the LED strip so you will have to get a flush mount screw or bolt with a nut on the back. I also had to drill new holes.




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I love it I would have no problem paying the full price. It is worth every penny!
 
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Old Apr 29, 2013 | 11:59 AM
  #42  
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I mounted one of those license plate lights from Vleds this weekend...but only 3 of the 6 led's came on. So I recommend testing it before you go through all the work to mount it. I sent it back to the company, kind of a bummer to have to pay return shipping on a defective product. Hope the next one works better.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2013 | 08:22 PM
  #43  
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Even though I bought one of the 'scratch and dent sale' light frames they sent me a perfect one. It worked fine and with it I can see my dog behind me while I back up. She likes to walk around the truck while I'm backing up, probably because she's a heeler and trying to heel the truck.

It puts up enough light to make the backup camera usable at night. And since I have a topper on the bed I need that to help with the mirrors. I'm sure the Rigid LED's are brighter...but I can back down a dark alley with no lights at night behind my garage with this light.

If you're having problems with the Rigid LED's just use a relay. The trigger wire goes to 95 with 96 grounded. The battery power goes to 30 and the lights go to 87. Just look at the bottom of the relay for the terminal numbers.
 
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Old Jun 28, 2013 | 08:37 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by PrinceValium
Why not just use something like this:
2X CREE R5 Emitter 7W T10 Wedge 184 192 Super Bright LED Reverse Backup Lights | eBay

That way you don't have to cut into the bumper and people have said these lights work great to replace the stock backup lights. I read the 921's are the ones to get from CREE...there are 3, 5, and 7 watt. (I would get the 7 watt) People have said they also replaced the cab lights with these 7w bulbs as well.
I was thinking the same thing. Switched the tail/brake bulbs in my bike to LED drop ins and its worked very well.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2013 | 09:40 AM
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