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Finally Fixing Those Reverse Lights

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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 01:10 PM
  #16  
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PrinceValium
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Originally Posted by tvsjr
Retrofitting the reverse lights will improve things somewhat, but that won't be anywhere close to the output of a dedicated lamp like the Rigid.
I cannot argue with you there for sure...just was trying to offer another avenue instead of mounting a dedicated reverse light. I will try the bulbs first and if it is not enough I will most likely get some sort of dedicated light if need be....when I finally get my truck of course.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 10:04 PM
  #17  
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OK folks, spent the better part of the day installing and documenting. So I guess I have sort-of a how-to.
Tools I used to cut open the bumper:
Sabre saw with fine metal blade
Dremel tool (to do some touch-up)
All the other stuff is just your run of the mill socket set and soldering iron set as well. Now on with the pics.

Before
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Measuring up
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One in, one to go
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The cut
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Opening up the reverse lights, it's the grey wire that is hot
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tapping in, I actually soldered the wires together, then I used liquid-electric-tape to seal things up, along with the old school stuff to be sure.
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ground
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tucking things up
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After
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OK, now in case anyone wants to compare against my shots directly so we have a good comparison, I used my SLR camera and took pictures with these settings:
Shutter Speed: 1/6 (Very slow, I used my bed rail as a camera stand)
ISO: 6400
Depth of field: F5
White Balance: Direct Sun
No Flash
Normal lense, no filters

stock reverse only (LED's covered with cardboard)
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stock reverse + LED's
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standing far away shot
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Beam pattern 1
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Beam pattern 2
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Halogen headlights to compare against. Yes, I lost my HID setup, because I busted up the lense really good on my headlights. So I just reverted back to my spare halogen headlights. They also perform better when there's snow (My HID's never got warm enough to really keep the lenses clear).
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Last edited by Jus2shy; Feb 23, 2013 at 10:07 PM. Reason: Forgot, I didn't get pics of my soldering job... :(
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 11:39 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by D8chumley
Subscribing- where did you get the lights and what did they cost? I'm thinking it wouldn't be a bad idea also to have a little more light in R at night
I ended up buying mine at 4wheelparts, since they have a local store around here. So I only had to wait two days for my order to arrive in-store and I avoided shipping charges since it's on my way home from work . I spent roughly $220 ish (don't have receipt near me right now). I have to say, the lights are very heavy duty feeling. I really liked how solid the housing is. I may be tempted to use their 30" SR light for the front of my truck. At first, I was set on getting an "E" series, but it'd be easier to hide an SR unit behind the stock grille using some angle iron and creativity. After driving through Idaho, Montana and Wyoming, I now understand why people need these light bars. My high beams were just not enough for illuminating the road and driving 70 mph at night. I saw plenty of blood stains on the road to convince me that this was something I'd need if I go eastward again.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 11:48 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by PrinceValium
Why not just use something like this:
2X CREE R5 Emitter 7W T10 Wedge 184 192 Super Bright LED Reverse Backup Lights | eBay

That way you don't have to cut into the bumper and people have said these lights work great to replace the stock backup lights. I read the 921's are the ones to get from CREE...there are 3, 5, and 7 watt. (I would get the 7 watt) People have said they also replaced the cab lights with these 7w bulbs as well.
The downside of LED's (and Cree makes an excellent LED, I've played with them on a my breadboard) is that they're not omnidirectional. I figure that I wanted to keep my reverse lights omni-directional with the crummy bulb just so cross-traffic can see the reverse indicator (in all its weak glory). Also, the optics and diffusing patter on the Rigids got me into trying it out. I went diffused because the in-store "Clear-Flood" lense lit up quite a bit in day time. So I wanted more light spread with the amount of light being thrown out. That's all
 
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 06:49 AM
  #20  
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You should have enough light now! Good job. These bumpers must not be as tough as a '77 Dodge. When I had Power Wagons, I built a light bar, and drilled through the bumper to mount it. That was some badaZZ steel. I must have had different thoughts when I mentioned a plasma cutter.LOL
 
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 07:02 AM
  #21  
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Very nice- reps sent! Maybe Big Tim could put this in the Common Mods for easy reference?
 
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 07:23 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by PrinceValium
Why not just use something like this:
2X CREE R5 Emitter 7W T10 Wedge 184 192 Super Bright LED Reverse Backup Lights | eBay

That way you don't have to cut into the bumper and people have said these lights work great to replace the stock backup lights. I read the 921's are the ones to get from CREE...there are 3, 5, and 7 watt. (I would get the 7 watt) People have said they also replaced the cab lights with these 7w bulbs as well.
I was looking at the ad and the pics they show aren't super impressive. To be fair I would like to see some real pics from someone here who has installed them. That said, the Cree LED has more initial appeal as it has one less zero in the price tag and being in the construction business these winter months are a time to be frugal. Anyone have pics with the Cree reverse lights? I would love those Rigids, they are probably the better choice for the aging gentlemans eyes at night
 
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 11:18 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by johnday
You should have enough light now! Good job. These bumpers must not be as tough as a '77 Dodge. When I had Power Wagons, I built a light bar, and drilled through the bumper to mount it. That was some badaZZ steel. I must have had different thoughts when I mentioned a plasma cutter.LOL
I think a plasma cutter would had made my life much easier! The steel seemed to be about 3/32" (almost 1/8") plate. Who knows if that's the thickness all the way though, manufacturers are playing with variable thickness steel to try and shave weight now a days. Still better than the flimsy stuff I see used on the imports.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 06:32 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by tvsjr
...(I always back into parking spots and there's invariably one idiot that wants to shoot behind me as I try to maneuver into position).
Same here. There should be a special place in h*ll reserved for those people.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 09:10 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Lady Fitzgerald
Same here. There should be a special place in h*ll reserved for those people.
There has been more than one occasion when I've backed on up, pinning the errant driver between other vehicles and the trailer hitch on the back of my truck. After a minute or two of the other driver honking and yelling, I've been known to walk back and ask "what seems to be the problem?"

It's quite entertaining.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2013 | 04:39 AM
  #26  
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Moving to common mods. Great project and excellent write up!
 
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Old Feb 27, 2013 | 12:54 PM
  #27  
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Looks good
 
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Old Feb 27, 2013 | 12:54 PM
  #28  
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Looks good
 
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Old Mar 2, 2013 | 06:24 AM
  #29  
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Birthday money is burning a hole in my pocket What is the difference between the SR-M and the SR-M2 besides $50? I'm sure its more powerful, but the description on Rigids site is the same for both lights
EDIT: I am thinking of just getting the SR-M with the mounting bracket. I'm leary of cutting holes in my bumper, and if I get a newer truck some day I can take the SR-M off
 
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Old Mar 2, 2013 | 01:03 PM
  #30  
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Back up lights not woking

I had a pair of the Rigid lights mounted on the tow bar, they were woking great for about 6 months. Suddenlly they went out, checked fuses, bulbs, relays. Does anyone know where the switch on the trans is and could this be the problem.

Thanks
 
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