Finally Fixing Those Reverse Lights
#16
I cannot argue with you there for sure...just was trying to offer another avenue instead of mounting a dedicated reverse light. I will try the bulbs first and if it is not enough I will most likely get some sort of dedicated light if need be....when I finally get my truck of course.
#17
OK folks, spent the better part of the day installing and documenting. So I guess I have sort-of a how-to.
Tools I used to cut open the bumper:
Sabre saw with fine metal blade
Dremel tool (to do some touch-up)
All the other stuff is just your run of the mill socket set and soldering iron set as well. Now on with the pics.
Before
Measuring up
One in, one to go
The cut
Opening up the reverse lights, it's the grey wire that is hot
tapping in, I actually soldered the wires together, then I used liquid-electric-tape to seal things up, along with the old school stuff to be sure.
ground
tucking things up
After
OK, now in case anyone wants to compare against my shots directly so we have a good comparison, I used my SLR camera and took pictures with these settings:
Shutter Speed: 1/6 (Very slow, I used my bed rail as a camera stand)
ISO: 6400
Depth of field: F5
White Balance: Direct Sun
No Flash
Normal lense, no filters
stock reverse only (LED's covered with cardboard)
stock reverse + LED's
standing far away shot
Beam pattern 1
Beam pattern 2
Halogen headlights to compare against. Yes, I lost my HID setup, because I busted up the lense really good on my headlights. So I just reverted back to my spare halogen headlights. They also perform better when there's snow (My HID's never got warm enough to really keep the lenses clear).
Tools I used to cut open the bumper:
Sabre saw with fine metal blade
Dremel tool (to do some touch-up)
All the other stuff is just your run of the mill socket set and soldering iron set as well. Now on with the pics.
Before
Measuring up
One in, one to go
The cut
Opening up the reverse lights, it's the grey wire that is hot
tapping in, I actually soldered the wires together, then I used liquid-electric-tape to seal things up, along with the old school stuff to be sure.
ground
tucking things up
After
OK, now in case anyone wants to compare against my shots directly so we have a good comparison, I used my SLR camera and took pictures with these settings:
Shutter Speed: 1/6 (Very slow, I used my bed rail as a camera stand)
ISO: 6400
Depth of field: F5
White Balance: Direct Sun
No Flash
Normal lense, no filters
stock reverse only (LED's covered with cardboard)
stock reverse + LED's
standing far away shot
Beam pattern 1
Beam pattern 2
Halogen headlights to compare against. Yes, I lost my HID setup, because I busted up the lense really good on my headlights. So I just reverted back to my spare halogen headlights. They also perform better when there's snow (My HID's never got warm enough to really keep the lenses clear).
Last edited by Jus2shy; 02-23-2013 at 10:07 PM. Reason: Forgot, I didn't get pics of my soldering job... :(
#18
I ended up buying mine at 4wheelparts, since they have a local store around here. So I only had to wait two days for my order to arrive in-store and I avoided shipping charges since it's on my way home from work . I spent roughly $220 ish (don't have receipt near me right now). I have to say, the lights are very heavy duty feeling. I really liked how solid the housing is. I may be tempted to use their 30" SR light for the front of my truck. At first, I was set on getting an "E" series, but it'd be easier to hide an SR unit behind the stock grille using some angle iron and creativity. After driving through Idaho, Montana and Wyoming, I now understand why people need these light bars. My high beams were just not enough for illuminating the road and driving 70 mph at night. I saw plenty of blood stains on the road to convince me that this was something I'd need if I go eastward again.
#19
Why not just use something like this:
2X CREE R5 Emitter 7W T10 Wedge 184 192 Super Bright LED Reverse Backup Lights | eBay
That way you don't have to cut into the bumper and people have said these lights work great to replace the stock backup lights. I read the 921's are the ones to get from CREE...there are 3, 5, and 7 watt. (I would get the 7 watt) People have said they also replaced the cab lights with these 7w bulbs as well.
2X CREE R5 Emitter 7W T10 Wedge 184 192 Super Bright LED Reverse Backup Lights | eBay
That way you don't have to cut into the bumper and people have said these lights work great to replace the stock backup lights. I read the 921's are the ones to get from CREE...there are 3, 5, and 7 watt. (I would get the 7 watt) People have said they also replaced the cab lights with these 7w bulbs as well.
#22
Why not just use something like this:
2X CREE R5 Emitter 7W T10 Wedge 184 192 Super Bright LED Reverse Backup Lights | eBay
That way you don't have to cut into the bumper and people have said these lights work great to replace the stock backup lights. I read the 921's are the ones to get from CREE...there are 3, 5, and 7 watt. (I would get the 7 watt) People have said they also replaced the cab lights with these 7w bulbs as well.
2X CREE R5 Emitter 7W T10 Wedge 184 192 Super Bright LED Reverse Backup Lights | eBay
That way you don't have to cut into the bumper and people have said these lights work great to replace the stock backup lights. I read the 921's are the ones to get from CREE...there are 3, 5, and 7 watt. (I would get the 7 watt) People have said they also replaced the cab lights with these 7w bulbs as well.
#23
You should have enough light now! Good job. These bumpers must not be as tough as a '77 Dodge. When I had Power Wagons, I built a light bar, and drilled through the bumper to mount it. That was some badaZZ steel. I must have had different thoughts when I mentioned a plasma cutter.LOL
#24
#25
It's quite entertaining.
#29
Birthday money is burning a hole in my pocket What is the difference between the SR-M and the SR-M2 besides $50? I'm sure its more powerful, but the description on Rigids site is the same for both lights
EDIT: I am thinking of just getting the SR-M with the mounting bracket. I'm leary of cutting holes in my bumper, and if I get a newer truck some day I can take the SR-M off
EDIT: I am thinking of just getting the SR-M with the mounting bracket. I'm leary of cutting holes in my bumper, and if I get a newer truck some day I can take the SR-M off
#30