I would like to apologize if my questions are to simplistic or if they are already answered.

I have a 1993 7.3l TurboDiesel with two distinct problems.

1) Very difficult to cold start: When I am up at the cabin (15-20 deg. F) and cannot plug in the block heater I almost cant get it to start. I hear clicking, and can see the volt meter swinging but I have to crank for a long time to get it to finally fire. Nobody has ever told me the "correct" cold start procedure so it seems I may be doing something wrong. Do I wait for clicking to stop or a light to come on?

2) Runs Cold: When running, even up the pass or with a load, my temp gauge rarely lifts off "C" and when it does it only goes to the bottom of the normal range even in summer. It never stays there unless under load. I did replace the radiator recently with an inexpensive aftermarket unit. (plastic tanks, aluminum core)

I am sure these are unrelated but I would appreciate any advice on either.

Thanks
Rich

 

1) Sounds like a couple burnt out glow plugs. Refer to "new style glow plug" sticky at top of forum.

2) Could be a bad connection at the sending unit, or the sending unit is done. Try and verify how hot the top tank gets after driving, heat gun, mechanical guage etc.
2a) Another possibility is that the thermostat is not closing. When you say it runs cold, does it take "forever" to get off cold, cold? How is the heat in the cab?

 

welcome to FTE.
i agree on the glow plug circuit not working due to bad glow plugs.
how long does the wait to start light stay on?

i also agree on the open or missing thermostat, or it may just have a screwed up temp gauge.
using a infrared thermometer, see what temp the upper and lower rad hoses, and block are once the engine is warmed up.

 

Thanks-

I will run through the GP thread and try to find the problem... One concern is I have not noticed a "wait to start" light at all. I have had this rig for 7 years, it has always been the weekend/project truck so I might have missed it. I will look for that this evening...

The cab heat does come through only very slowly, and not very intense. It used to heat the cab fine and the meter on the dash worked until I replaced the leaky radiator 4 months ago. The heater hoses do get hot but not overly hot. The radiator shop that sold it to me said it would probably cool better with the new one, but this seems a little too cool.

 

Sounds to me like thermostat. The WTS light will be just to the right of the steering wheel in that little "display center" The bulb could be burnt out i suppose.

 

motorcraft zd9 glow plugs x8
motorcraft t-stat rt1049 x1
upper radiator hose x1
lower radiator hose x 1
fleetcharge antifreeze x4 gallons
distilled water x 4 gallons
stant 13 lb cap x1
partridge in a pear tree x1

 

What!?, no part number for the Partridge? LOL

 

And by the way... No "Wait To Start" light of any kind. It does not even flash on when the rest of the idiot lights cycle up.

 

If your heater works when the gauge reads cold it is your sending unit for your gauge If not put some cardbord in front of the radiatior to help it warm up.
If not the gauge start with the thermotstat. I like my napa brand one my trucks warm up in 15 minutes in that kind of weather. The only complaint I have with those t-stats is I can't use the ac while pulling in the summer time. The other guys are going to say use motorcraft.
If that dosen't work check the fan clutch. I have had one that was stuck on all the time and that truck would never warm up.
If you don't want to mess with the glow plugs get some cheap starting fluid like the Napa brand. That stuff wont hurt your engain. Don't use good eather like john deere. that couls hurt your engain.
When you start these motors cold it helps to hold the throttle open.

 

there is no such thing as cheap or good ether. starting fluid is starting fluid. the only difference is the name on the can.

and i WILL NEVER spray any starting fluid in my engine. with 21.5:1 compression ratio, it is very easy to destroy the engine.

 

Can I test and change just bad GPs or should I swap them all? I have 190k on the rig.

I am still concerned that I do not see a "Wait to Start" light at all. I know where it is supposed to be but it does not light.

 

could be a bad indicator bulb.pull the dash and check it out.she comes apart fairly easy.
for testing the whole works;
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...low-plugs.html

i did the testing and replacing the few bad gp's one at a time deal when i first got my truck.it wasn't worth it.ended up just replacing them all together.the other ones started to fail right behind replacing the bad ones and i was chasing my tail lol.
the local stealerships will rob ya blind if you let 'em.hit up the site sponsor rock auto (i think they still are) here for decent prices on 'em.

 

There is a diffrence John Deere is 80%-90% ether and the napa stuff is way less 23%-33% so that it can be used on gassers.

I should have said this before, unhook your glow plugs before using any starting fluid. It will fry your glow pulgs that still work or back fire and ruin your air cleaner.

Well mabey I'm just lucky, but I use the fluid everytime I start my tow truck. I used it all the time before i fixed the glow plugs in the other two trucks. One of my customers did away with glow pulgs and put a push button despensor on his truck.

 

Ive never done any real research on the subject, just some first hand experience. Im going to say you have that backwards. The "good" ether is usually 50% with the rest being made up with lubricants and stuff to help keep it from ether knocking. Wheras the cheap stuff like NAPA, Macs, and Johnsons (Macs and johnsons also have a premium version) Is mostly ether with few added lubricants, and is alot easier to ether lock the engine. I say this because if i buy NAPA for instance, a quick puff into the air filter is all she needs to get going. It is very easy to use to much and ether knock / lock. Vs. Like the good stuff Pyroil pyrol w/ever it is (50% ether with upper cylinder head lubricants is printed right on the can) i have to drown the air filter in it and even then half the time it wont start and i have to pull the intake hat and spray it right in the intake. Which is weird, because our little Ford diesel tractor wont start on the cheap stuff, it either just cranks or ether locks. Have to use the good stuff and even then shes hard to start.. shes long overdue retirement anyway.

I also use ether to start, no problems yet. However im also the only one that drives the pickup.

Ether will not burn out glow plugs either, i doubt very much that they care at all if you use ether, however the rest of the engine will.. very much so. I watched no less than 4 mexicans trying to get a kubota skidsteer started. After seeing they were having problems, and using ether on it i went over and tried to help. I say tried because wasnt a single one that understood a single word of english, and based on how they were acting they didnt need or want my help. So i stepped off and waited for the firework show to come. Well to wrap it up, after 1-2 cans of ether later, apparently one of them decided to turn something on, or use the glow plugs or something and the head went flying right through the hood and probably 20ft in the air. So ya, dont use ether with glow plugs, explosive gas doesnt play well with things that are glowing hot

Since were on the subject of ether, dont let anyone try and tell you it will become "ether addicted"

 

if i have to use a starting aid, i will use WD-40 or PB Blaster.
i have heard of people using a rag with gas on it held to the intake, but i don't like the idea of a rag that could get sucked into the engine.