FYI... very important to save a few bucks.
After working on my daughters car the last couple of days to remove all OBD ll codes, I finally got down to "no codes" and went in to get it CA certified at a "Star Test Station." Guess what? Once you fix the OBD issues, you MUST drive at least 50 miles to allow the computer to "reset" and the car to pass emissions testing.
I had only driven 15 or so miles and once it failed, all the measured parameters passed, but it failed, due to lack of miles after OBD reset!
I asked the tech why he didn't ask me first if work had been done as it would automatically fail.
He asked me why I hadn't told him that I'd worked on the car?
I said "you're the expert." How about some help here? He just said the state didn't allow him to ask questions before the test.
Another 25 bucks and 50 more miles.
Don't get caught in the same trap!

 

That's some valuable info....!

Where we are there are some "friendlier" test stations than others, and I make sure to spread the word in both directions. It sounds like no station could do anything about what happened in your case unless they did a pre-test. Or talked with you more...

Don't often see San Pedro -- lived my 1st 9 years down there...

 

This is not news, anytime you clear codes or disconnect the battery the readiness tests data is wiped out.

It's not the inspector's job to quiz you on the work history of the vehicle. His job is to do the test, period.

 

This has nothing to do with California emissions testings, it's the same anywhere where OBDII testing is the norm. There's no "mileage" requirement after a PCM reset and the PCM doesn't keep track of miles since a reset.

You just have to run it long enough for the correct number of OBDII self-test monitors to run without failure and for the P1000 code to clear. Several of them will usually run within the first 10 minutes or so, but others may take longer, up to days or weeks of normal driving.

Use your scan tool to see what monitors have (or haven't) run and KNOW what the testing requirements are before you get in line.

 

Same here in IL.
What would be the point of having the smog test if you could just reset the codes before you went for the test.

 

The one thing I find to be BS is that there isn't a free retest. Here if we fail we get the chance to make repairs and go back for a free retest within 30 days. The only conditions are that it has to be within 30 days and that you have to go back to the same place for the retest that did the original test.

 

In IL, you get 3 tries. no more after that without lots of paperwork

 

alloro,
Maybe it's not news to you but I'm not sure this is common knowledge out there in the community. I looked for other similar posts and didn't see any.

I agree with you that they are only testers and they might be limited to these discussions. They are probably on the top of the list for regular audits, however, signing or some basic posted info, asking if you have made repairs, could save us all some bucks here.

Maybe even that would be illegal here in Jerry's state.

 

A number of folks might not get that.... Unless you reference Governor Moonbeam

One place I often recommend does a pretest, for free. Their actual test is more money than a lot of stations, but it will save you if you are "in question" of passing going in. There are only a couple places around that do free retests and they too charge more.

It still seems that for the failure that the OP started this thread with, it should be Mandatory that a retest be allowed. I think it's BS when a normal person with normal skills and just trying to do the right thing, gets caught in a "fine print" trap like this... My $.02

 

I agree but I think the state must get a portion of the retest fees also.

The tech y/day told me to drive approx 50 miles before returning.

So today, I drove on city streets for 10 miles back and forth with varing speeds, etc. Then I went 55 miles on the freeway, including 4-5 miles of typical So Cal stop and go.

I stopped for a burger, thinking that letting it cool down for 30 minutes would possible help the "cycle."

Trying to think out loud and outside the box about what might have to also happen to get over the hump, I turned on and off the ignition 5 times, latched and unlatched my seat belt 5 times, turning that light on and off, and opening the driver door at least 5 times to set that light off and on.

Then I went back to the test station...

The same guy plugged back into the OBD terminal and guess what????

FAILED again!

He said I had one more try before having to completely start over.

I saw where someone had suggested letting it set overnight to help reset.

Tomorrow I'll run it some more and hope I finally get a green. Almost like a bad dream.

 

So I have a Jeep Wrangler circa 2000. One day the check engine light came on. Did a bit of research and found out that something emissions wise was out of whack and called one of the "friendly" smog shops I use and (since I don't have a code reader and he's a fur distance) he told me to take the o-ring off the gas cap and put a tiny bit of silicone grease on it and re-install. He said it could take more than one fill up PLUS a week or so of driving.

These OBDII things must look at a bunch of sh_t to "decide" things are ok because I filled up 2x and did 10 days of driving and lo and behold the light went out and has never come back on. That was probably 5 years ago and at least two more smog checks for registration since.

I'd have to go back and read thru this thread again to see if someone told you what parameter to check to see if it thinks things are cool again. You have a code reader, correct?

I feel your pain....

 

Code readers are cheap. A basic one that will give you the needed info regarding readiness monitors is less than 50 bucks, a better one is $100, a pretty good one is $200.

A cold soak for the purpose of advancing a drive cycle is 8 hours, not 30 minutes.

Go to http://www.motorcraftservice.com/vdi...&menuIndex1=15 and get the OBDII manual for your vehicle if you'd like to learn more about the system.

 

What kind of car is it?
Did he say which readiness test(s) were incomplete?

 

Yes I do.

He didn't clarify but to say that it still wasn't ready. My daughters car is a Mini but it's an issue with all of our vehicles. For sake of good info for this forum, I brought it up even though it's not a Ford.

The data passed for visual and for emissions, but not sure on readiness.

 

I've never heard of a Mini. Who makes it?