post up your combinations, IE fuel,turbo,injectors,oil and what was ran on the dyno..

mine, FF 238/100, termy twins,S468, airdog150 w/walbro pump, regulated return...
2/15/13-----510hp, i will add the torque later ( because I forgot )

 

Full Force 160/100%
Stock airbox
Stock exhaust (straight through 95-97 muffler)
Stock high pressure oil pump
Stock turbocharger
Stock transmission
Stock
Stock
Aftermarket tuning.

7/12 - 402 RWHP

I'll add to this discussion in a few weeks when I change nothing but the injectors and tuning (again).

 

Who's dyno? Can you post up your dyno sheet? Are you happy with those numbers? I know you put alot of time and effort into your build.

 

Full Force 250/200%
GTP38R
AFE Stage II
4" MBRP
BTS Trans
Fuel bowl delete w/RR and Walbro pump
Stock HPOP
Stock PMR bottom end
Stock springs
Stock pushrods
Stock head bolts
Self tuned using Minotaur

478/851 back in July on Hallers, with some boost leaks (fixed since then)


If I can get my rear diff fixed soon, I might throw it back on the dyno here in a few weeks. I'm curious to see if I can hit 500 hp after repairing the boost leaks.

 

we did the dyno at No Limit Tuning and Design, He is suppose to be e-mailing the results along with all the data logging, when he does I will post it up..I feel that I am leaving 50-60hp on the table somewhere, at least thats what I am getting from another site..I will be sending the data sheets to Jody for his review.Its interesting because on Full Force website the 238/100 is good for 480-500hp which puts me inline but several people with the same injectors are reporting 550-575hp. Kinda of the reason for this thread..

 

Yep. That's what I thought you were shooting for. I am curious as to what their dyno has to report for me this year at RRE. I'm still not sure of the results I got from Good's in the past. My best was 485 rwhp/952 tq on their dyno in July 2011.

 

Where you holding fp, Joey??

 

Last year at RRE, first time on a dyno so not overly confident in my numbers because I don't think I did my part correctly. However, with the setup in my signature minus the van turbo and ported housing (stock turbo with WW), in PHP 65Tow tune I came away with:

328 hp
704 lb/ft

I really screwed up my run in the 120race tune, so the numbers were too inaccurate to consider.

I plan to hop on again at RRE this year, and hopefully I will get some numbers I am more confident in.

 

That will be very interesting to see your results.
I've always thought that 160/100 injectors are about as large as one could realistically go without also needing to change other pieces of hardware on the engine. I would love to know if my suspicion is close to being correct or way off base.

I am totally surprised to see that you are producing over 400 rwhp on a totally stock transmission. Is it a manual or automatic? Are you having any issues or does the trans seem to be holding up well enough?

 

Fuel pressure is 68 psi @idle and wot....

 

Following this tread. Always nice to see how everybudy is doing. I myself was thinking about doing 200/80 injectors but do like how the 160/100's sound. I really have to tow and don't want to have to do the hole motor if not necessary. I liked Robins numbers but didn't know how much he really towed.

 

No worries if "No Limit" does the dyno @RRE, they take full controll of your truck, all you get to do is stand on the sidelines and watch...

 

Really?! That may be nerve-racking as hell! But, I guess they know what they're doing. Is that who is doing the dyno this year?

 

Suppose to be

 

Which is exactly the reason for my going through with this project. I am a big proponent of thinking outside of the box and I just HAVE to go against what everybody on the forums regurgitates as fact (just because they've read about it) when very few actually KNOW what is true.

Will the stock parts hate life with 238/200% injectors? Undoubtedly so. How long will the parts last? Who knows? I drive like an old lady most of the time though......

The transmission is an auto and all of the internals are factory. Either the direct clutch or the torque converter clutch is hating life though....3rd and 4th gear "roll-ons" give the tachometer needle a head start while the speedometer needle paces itself. It only started doing it recently though. All of the dyno runs and the six dragstrip passes didn't exhibit any issues.

Have no fear though, it's getting a NAPA rebuild kit within the next few weeks to get rid of the 256K mile factory frictions and steels. I might spring for a good torque converter though if it turns out that the current one is the culprit for the slipping (I can't tell if it slips in 2nd because it just goes through that gear so fast...).