Ah.. figured out the adapter -for 1.15AR housings. Not sure if it's needed for 1.00, but I'd probably just go to the 1.15. Wouldnt think I'd trade too much spool up time.

 

Or you could go with 205-200 nozzles, I'd like to see that. I've been told you can get your low end torq better with them. Don't have them so can't say. I did like Robins
200/80 nozzles, but he said he wished he would of gone 100 nozzles. RIP Robin. Wasn't Mike from NJ running Vegie with his 238/100 with stock turbo and WWG2. I believe he said lag is gone with 1.0AR, could be wrong but that's what I remember. Also there is a post on RRE that shows Dyno numbers. I looked threw it just wished it show all there mods etc..

 

I'm hoping the format started here can be continued: Dyno+mods listed together.

Thanks for the clarification on the van housing. I will probably go 1.15 if I end up with 238/100. I am using off the shelf Diablo programs for now, Jeff. I got their latest versions and I like them a lot. I cannot get 80e to smoke at all, and 110 barely smokes on take-off. I got them for next to nothing, so it was a win-win for me. EGTs are low as well.

 

All stock except for a 1995-1997 PSD muffler, chopped and rewelded stock LLY Duramax tailpipe, and 250/200% injectors. Stock transmission, stock fuel system, stock high pressure oil system.

Stock power output most of the time since I drive like an old fuddy-duddy.

 

That's like playing golf with a tipsy Jessica Alba.

 

I'm more of an Amy Adams fan (not much into those younger gals of whom you speak); whatever floats your boat.

Mostly it's because I am a firm believer in NOT having a 400+ horsepower "stock" tune. I believe one should start with and perfect stock power regardless of injector size (although I believe 200% nozzles are about the limit for that thinking) and then work up from there. Adding power from that point is easy....REALLY easy.

 

Googled Amy Adams. Boat floated!

Kudos on achieving (or at least approximating) that objective. From there, how does a curious mind not forge ahead?

 

Can you do this with no smoke and stock turbo? Would love to do this with some live tuning, smaller injectors for me, 200/200 and have a good tow tune to pull 15 or 16K. Thanks,
Chet

 

From what I have read/understand, the 160/100 injectors will lower EGTs and improve overall engine efficiency on a sanely driven/tuned truck. Idle will be "louder". Please correct me if I am wrong, Somebody!?

 

"Yes" and "yes" for the first two.


----BUT-----
Why waste the money on ANYTHING with 200% nozzles if you're pulling that much weight? You'll never be able to tow with much more than stock power anyway without having your eyes glued to the pyrometer, the transmission hating life, the turbocharger grunting in agony, and the u-joints/rear differential being mad at the world. Not only will you end up with some quirks (albeit minor inconveniences pertaining to the PCM's lack of ability to do anything fast enough to control them like stock-nozzle injectors), but in all honesty I wouldn't call 200/200% injectors "smaller" than 250/200% injectors since the tuning would be identical between the two. Unless you're planning on spending a TON of money on making the vehicle ABLE to support those injectors, there's no sense in jumping off the deep end.

Personally, the 160/80-100% injector is perfect for these trucks. The stock turbocharger and transmission don't hate you (as much) and the driveability can nearly equal that of a stock-nozzle injector.

I did mine the way I did because it's my way of pointing my middle finger to all of those who say that you need x, y, z, p, d, and q to run anything "bigger" than stock when it comes to all of the glorious "factual information" we get from the internet. Also, I don't like the way my employer does his tuning so I had to perfect my own...I bought the injectors to tune and then resell.

 

I'm not sure how increasing the fuel delivery lowers EGT all of the time.

Sure, in a small way igniting the better part of the injected fuel sooner and not dragging out the injection event makes better use of the limited amount air in the cylinder, but a blanket statement like that would lead somebody to believe that a set of 400/400% nozzles are meltdown proof.

As far as the noise comment:
Once the PNW G2G (I HATE acronyms ) is over, have one of the people participating tell you how loud Stinky is. Better yet, how loud Way Faster than Stinky is......

 

Thank you for the answer, Cody. I suspected the injector/nozzle size on a stock truck is on a curve, so to speak, when it comes to positive results without huge drawbacks. When you reach a certain point, you start to head down the curve rather than continuing up the performance ladder? I don't have any interest in spending money on bigger turbos or bigger HPOPs, etc. I am chasing a main dish of reliability with a little performance on the side without roasting my stock turbo with EGTs. Not interested in broaching the 400HP mark, as my mechanical diode transmission would croak, I'm sure.

I have heard Rich's truck through his video posts, but I am sure it doesn't compare to being there. It didn't seem outrageous to me. I've only heard one truck in person running 160/100 nozzles, and I could tell a difference between it and mine. Again, nothing outrageous...but noticeable for sure.

 

So in a nutshell for people that need a workhorse 160/80-100's are the way to go in your opinion? Would that be a manageable setup grossing 15-20k?

 

Well...................

They say opinions are like..uh....well, you know. You'll get a whole bunch of differing outlooks on what a person SHOULD run. I can tell you that I tow quite a bit and for stock equipment (turbocharger, transmission, etc.), the "Stage 2" injector was about the limit for reliable towing due to surge and transmission slippage. I think the most I ever weighed was in the 17,000 lb. range and adding much more than about 40 RWHP put me over the line (surge line to be exact) for the 160/100% injectors. If you plan on using a turbocharger that won't (or shouldn't) surge, you may get away with a little more in that department but the rest of the drivetrain is going to let you know just how much is too much.

Currently I can get away towing with about the same amount of power with the hybrids, but I recently gave up on towing with this truck simply because my transmission needs rebuilt. It's a bad sign when the tachometer needle outruns the speedometer in a roll-on.

Something to consider is that say, hypothetically speaking, a certain stretch of uphill grade on which you drive/tow requires 280 HP to maintain speed and maintain safe exhaust temperature. It's going to take that same amount of power (fuel) to do it regardless of the style or type of injectors spraying fuel into the cylinders. On the other hand, if you slowly lose speed at 280 but gain speed at 300 at the expense of barely going over your personal EGT limit, then larger nozzles may help keep you below that limit for a bit.

 

Well I have a BTS so tranny should be good. Currently my biggest problem is surge and egt's when pulling a long grade. Thinking I need to find/fix boost leaks. About convinced myself to strip everything down to intake manifolds and re-seal those and then go back with new RR boots. Oh yeah might as well put in ww2 while turbo is off. Then go with the 160/80% injectors if the wife hasn't taken away my plastic by then!😰