When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Also I would like your guys opinions on what I should do while I have the truck down and Im in the under hood area...
Ive been wanting to do the 50 cent mod before it bits me in the *** so now that I have an excuse to get in there im also thinking
-Injector o-rings
-All glow plugs (bad or not)
-FRX
-Wicked Wheel
-Riff Raff IC Boots
Bellowed. I've questioned all the others, trying to pinch a penny, but as soon as I can afford it, bellowed it is.
The best is International ceramic coated (riffraff in my sig) and then the non ceramic coated is a little cheaper. Dorman makes the bellowed now for less than 200, but quality has been in question. There are a few threads on it.
What are the advantages of the bellowed up pipes? I havent read much on them. I know they are better longevity wise and dont have the "crushed" part in them, but do you gain anything power or lower egt wise?
What are the advantages of the bellowed up pipes? I havent read much on them. I know they are better longevity wise and dont have the "crushed" part in them, but do you gain anything power or lower egt wise?
Nothing power wise. But if your uppies are leaking then you will gain something back in lost exhaust.
I have the ceramic coated uppipes and exhaust housing. Can I tell a difference?? No. Went from leaky uppipes to bellowed pipes and van turbo with stage ones and tunes.
To much change to notice. But keeping thermal forces in the pipes will help with velocity
With leaky up pipes + leaky turbo exhaust housing + leaky turbo compressor housing oring
No tunes i was seeing 1400+ WOT on my pyro.
After bellowed uppies my temps dropped dramatically. Seems like it would hang around 1250 zone WOT. After fresh turbo (Thank you again and again and again Dwayne!) And finding a couple other small boost leaks... with an off the shelf bully bleh tune i cant seem to make it get hotter than 1150.
No ceramic coating on mine.
I think we still have a small boost leak somewhere on Ted's truck to sort out before we can get a fair comparison with his ceramic coated pipes...
The bellowed are better than the stock only for longevity reasons. The ceramic coated are supposed to help hold in heat a bit, which actually helps lower EGTs a little.
Internationals are supposed to be better than Dormans because dormans are said to have some quality issues.
As far as what else to do when tackling the uppies, I'd say reseal the pedestal, add plenum inserts, passenger side fuel line sleeves, and if you ever want to paint the spider and IC pipes, it's a good time for it. Personally I think stock boots are really thin, and I'd go ahead and upgrade to better boots and clamps.
IC boots won't have soot or any other indication of a leak. The whole intake system needs a leak detector to find boost leaks. I did it on mine and found a leak on the intake plenum. That sucked.
The bellowed ups are pliable... they "give" with engine vibration and expansion/contraction that extreme heat variations bring. They just plain make sense.
Well, still worth it to build the leak detector, but I don't think you are too far off on the boost, if it's stock. Try taking the red line off and see what happens.
I think you may be right. And yes I still have a stock turbo so maybe I'm not going to see any improvement. When I build the tester I'll post my results.
I didn't think that my up pipes were leaking as bad as they were based on the amount of soot.
Here is a quick video showing how loose my pipes were before I installed the bellowed up pipes:
Also I would like your guys opinions on what I should do while I have the truck down and Im in the under hood area...
Ive been wanting to do the 50 cent mod before it bits me in the *** so now that I have an excuse to get in there im also thinking
-Injector o-rings
-All glow plugs (bad or not)
-FRX
-Wicked Wheel
-Riff Raff IC Boots
Thoughts/opinions???
I see you are thinking about the wicked wheel, have you thought or seen the Billet wheel that Riff Raff offers? A little more $ but the boost seem to be higher with this wheel. Might be something else to consider.
You do realize to check the exhaust side for boost leaks from the tail pipe forward that you are going to have to remove all the exhaust rocker arms in order to close all of your exhaust valves.
You do realize to check the exhaust side for boost leaks from the tail pipe forward that you are going to have to remove all the exhaust rocker arms in order to close all of your exhaust valves.
I won't swear to this because I'm always overlooking something... but sealing and puffing the exhaust pipe should yield some exhaust leaks - unless you have exhaust and intake valves open at the same time. If it were the case, I'd be more concerned about that.
You do realize to check the exhaust side for boost leaks from the tail pipe forward that you are going to have to remove all the exhaust rocker arms in order to close all of your exhaust valves.
Only of you're trying to build and maintain pressure and do a leak down test, which isn't what I'm talking about. I know there will be air getting into the cylinders and make its way around the rings and out through the CCV, but the rate of escaping air should be easy to replace if its regulated from the compressor.
My theory is that if there are leaks like everyone describes (or similar to the video above) then it will be obvious that air is leaking there. If you can't feel or hear air escaping, I'm betting any leaks are negligible.
I won't swear to this because I'm always overlooking something... but sealing and puffing the exhaust pipe should yield some exhaust leaks - unless you have exhaust and intake valves open at the same time. If it were the case, I'd be more concerned about that.
I would be surprised if you don't have both valves open on at least one cylinder. That's called overlap. The camshaft is designed to open the intake before the exhaust closes. This helps pull in the intake charge.
I'm sure if you have a bad enough exhaust leak you will hear something but if its that bad already I'm sure there will be a visible sign of soot there but in my opinion if you want to truly check the exhaust system you are going to have to close the exhaust valves to isolate the exhaust system. Even on a fresh motor you could have 10% leakage per cylinder on a leak down test. If you have 5 exhaust valves open at one time you will have leakage around all 5 pistons not counting if any of those cylinders have an intake valve open also. I'm curious how this will work out for you but I can't see it helping much but for your sake I hope it does.
Also I would like your guys opinions on what I should do while I have the truck down and Im in the under hood area...
Ive been wanting to do the 50 cent mod before it bits me in the *** so now that I have an excuse to get in there im also thinking
-Injector o-rings
-All glow plugs (bad or not)
-FRX
-Wicked Wheel
-Riff Raff IC Boots
Thoughts/opinions???
I don't think you need to do the .50 mod. If I remember you have an 03 which have the clip upgrade?
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.