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Unreliable locking hubs, fix or replace?

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Old Feb 16, 2013 | 03:37 PM
  #1  
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Unreliable locking hubs, fix or replace?

Hey guys.

I got stuck in the snow last week, and when I tried to use it, realized that something in my 4x4 system wasn't working....... Luckily karma prevailed, and after I'd helped people get unstuck all through the blizzard last weekend, I had a friend with me that was able to push me out, but 4x4 would just not engage.

The front drive shaft was turning, the hubs were both locked, no engagement, no noise, nothing. I popped off the 6 allens on each side today assuming I'd find some kind of disintegrated locking hub on at least one side, but I didn't. I worried that that might mean I'd somehow broken an axle shaft, or stripped out something in the front diff. I started the truck with 3 wheels off the ground, put it in gear, engaged 4 low, and with both hubs uncapped, watched the axle shafts spin, relieved. I then took it out of gear, pushed the moving part of the locking assembly in (was difficult, lots of play), and having my brother hold it in with a couple screwdrivers, put it back in gear, and the wheel turned. I turned off the truck, played with it all some more, and came to the conclusion that my lockers are locking up fine, when they actually engage, but the engagement spring in the dial/cover assembly is not nearly adequate to push the cog into the engaged position, through all that grease, and with as much play as they have in them.

Is there a stronger spring I can buy? Have I put too much grease in the hubs? Does the amount of play present, mean that the locking assemblies are just old and worn and in need of replacement?

Thanks guys, Alex.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2013 | 04:13 PM
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AK FORD GUY
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I would clean the hubs real god and get as much grease out of the lock-out hub as possible. They are not suppose to be packed with grease, just lightly coated on all the mating surfaces.

I have been doing a lot of reading lately on hubs, as that is part of what I am working on currently.

Some people even use ATF or motor oil. I don't really like the idea of that because it can break down the bearing grease. I am going to go the lightly coated method when I put mine back together.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2013 | 07:08 PM
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From: Big Sky Country
Originally Posted by nothercrash
the engagement spring in the dial/cover assembly is not nearly adequate to push the cog into the engaged position, through all that grease.
Like "AK" said, sounds like you're using too much grease, too much and/or too thick of a grease can override the spring pressure and prevent full engagement of the gears, and once engaged it can also cause the gears to "stick" preventing full disengagement when unlocked.

A little grease goes a long way here, too little is better than too much, a very light coating will suffice.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2013 | 08:18 PM
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Right, my bro lost his grip as the hub spun, but the cog stayed in. I figured that was because it had wedged itself in diagonally, because there was too much play, but so you think it could have just been stuck there from the suction of the grease huh.

I tried to keep the grease isolated to the bearings, but it gets so messy during installation, some always gets on the hub and the axle shaft. I never though it would be a problem that wasn't designed for though.

That in mind, I'll take them apart again, wipe them down, and retry.

Thanks for the advice guys!

Alex
 
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Old Feb 18, 2013 | 02:22 PM
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Too much grease it was! Thankyou guys. That's really not what I was expecting. After a few minutes and alooot of greasy cue-tips, they both lock up fine, fast.

One other question now relating to this: the sliding cog that we've been talking about has teeth on it's inner surface, the teeth go about halfway across the inner surface, so that the cog can be installed with either the toothed inner edge facing out, or the smooth untoothed edge facing out. Which is correct? Right now I have one of each.....
 
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