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2002 e 350

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Old Feb 13, 2013 | 08:03 PM
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2002 e 350

Can someone please let me know how to remove my instrument panel to replace some bulbs.
Tx.
V.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2013 | 09:01 PM
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u mean the dash covers to get to your instrument panel?
take off head light on-off twisty twisty, yank yank its off. if u feel a tug, there might be a screw. otherwise its snap on-off
 
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Old Feb 14, 2013 | 08:56 PM
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2002 E350

Yes I mean the instrument panel. I need to change some bulbs so I can see my fuel gauge. Once I'm there I'll change all the bulbs. Tried lightly tugging on the headlight switch but did not come loose. I noticed two screws just underneath the upper part of the panel. Am I to understand that once I remove these two screws and remove the **** for the headlights the panel should come out??

Thanks,
V
 
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Old Feb 15, 2013 | 06:26 AM
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I think your '02 E van will have a one piece panel extending from the far left A/C vent/light switch area to just past the radio/right A/C vent----correct? If there is a dividing line just left of the lighter/power point connectors the process is the same for the most part.)

If so the first step is indeed to remove the headlight pull **** then the bezel which is threaded into that switch. (This assumes you know how to remove the pull stem for the H/L switch?)

There are two hex-head/Torx screws holding the instrument cluster surround to the dash board superstructure, memory says its a 6 or 7MM hex. These are in the upper area, just above the speedometer numbers, usually easily seen or felt by running your fingers along the upper surface of the cluster "window" in the surround.

Lock the parking brake down, move shift lever to first gear and grab the surround just in front of the clear lens of the cluster, gently pulling it away until meeting just a bit of resistance then gently yank it further outward. By now the far left vent area should be out far enough to place some sort of pry tool under the surround and popping the stem clips loose.

Proceeding from left to right, keep tugging and prying until you reach the lighter and power point connections---they should be able to be disconnected now. This won't be easy so be persistent but gentle.

Once those are disconnected I'd remove the radio next---it makes for a much easier removal of this surround. That does require those hoop-like tools, either already in your tool box or available most any auto parts outlet for less than $5.

After radio removal continue tugging and prying and finally the whole surround is off.

From here there are four or 5 screws holding the cluster to the dash superstructure---remove those, gently lift the cluster out and away BUT be careful for the shift position indicator---its attached to the steering column and easily damaged if not aware of it.

After all this the lamps are easily replaced:



( ^^^This is an old image, there are only four lamps for the entire cluster lighting, shown there as black bases. They could be gray or brown but location will be the same.)

While you're this far into it all replace the lamps in the A/C-Heater control panel too.

Reverse all these steps and your cluster lighting should be good to go for a few more 100K miles!

HTH
 
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Old Feb 16, 2013 | 10:56 AM
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Thanks JWA for the instructions.
Sorry for one more thing, I pulled on the H/L switch but it didn't want to come off.
Do I need to put a little more elbow grease and it should come off??

Thanks,
V.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2013 | 11:01 AM
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Some of the headlight switches have a tab on the shaft that has to be depressed with a small screw driver to release the shaft.
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rikard
 
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Old Feb 16, 2013 | 11:47 AM
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Thanks Rikard.

V.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2013 | 11:49 AM
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Rikard,
Would you happen to know how difficult it is to change a thermostat on this van??
 
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Old Feb 17, 2013 | 07:14 AM
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From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Originally Posted by verrazano
Thanks JWA for the instructions.
Sorry for one more thing, I pulled on the H/L switch but it didn't want to come off.
Do I need to put a little more elbow grease and it should come off??

Thanks,
V.
The following few photos might be helpful:

Here's a view of the lower dash with lower trim panel and reinforcement removed:



(^^^These pieces were removed earlier for other wiring modifications I was making but its not necessary to remove anything but the lower plastic trim. Details of its removal can be posted if needed.)

Here's the H/L switch out of the dash:



The small button highlighted is the key to removing the shaft. Reaching under the lower dash panels like this is the first step:



The button is on top of the switch so you'll need to feel about to locate it. Finger just touching the button, no pressure on it yet pull the **** all the way out. Once fully out depress the button which releases a lock allowing the **** to be pulled free of the switch.

Next step is to remove the H/L switch bezel which is a threaded fastener of sorts, holding the switch body to the dash superstructure:



Next step to access the instrument cluster is removing the first part of your two piece dash cover. This image shows location of the two screws in the upper surround that need to be removed as well as the point I use to pop the left cover free of its mounting tabs or clips. Keep in mind the shift lever has been moved to its lowest point, first gear if manual shifting the transmission:



Once the left side cover is completely loose you'll notice it overlays the right side:



If you're not replacing the bulbs in the A/C-Heater Control panel remove the instrument cluster screws and proceed in replacing those lamps. Since I'm already this far it makes sense to replace all dash lamps, save the labor if one of the others decide to fail soon after this refreshing.

Small point or suggestion: if its not necessary to have the dash lit up (driving during daylight for example) turn the brightness control to its lowest point which saves the dash lamps!

HTH
 
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Old Feb 17, 2013 | 03:17 PM
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Thanks for the information HTH.
V.
 
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