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^^^^^what cps said. Those inner dust seals just keep stuff out. If you didn't use the real deal seal driver, you risk getting the depth slightly wrong on the knuckle seal. More likely to get it too deep than not deep enough. If not deep enough, hub lock wouldn't go back in very easily. If you pulled the Axles with diff full, it could be residual oil that leaked out.
thanks for the replies, i remember while doing the work on the BJ and HUB bearing that once I pulled out the shaft, a little later their was fuild draining out of the axle tube. Not alot but enough to have a small spill. I recall jacking up the passenger side higher to keep / minimize the fluid loss. So now I'm thinking its the seal and/or combination of the pumpkin perhaps being over full maybe overpressure too (need to check the vent).
Thank said, it was not leaking before. I guess the only thing to do at this point is clean it up and keep an eye on it. If it stops great , if not schedule and seal replacement.
Is there a good procedure with pictures of pumpkin gear removal? with torque specs and such? Anything special I should be concerned about that would cause me to screw things up if not done right?
NicMike - may borrow that seal driver in the future.I'm in Austin not far from you. if that okay. Perhaps can pay you back in beers or something
You are welcome to use the seal driver, and I have complete manuals for all Dana 50 and 60 service, rebuilds and maintenance (along with all the tools to do it). Inner axle seals are a bit involved, but do-able in the driveway or garage.
thank you much for the offer, your knowledge and proxsimity will be helpful. I will start ordering the parts. I believe I can reuse the knuckle and dust seals since they are only a few months old.
Dust seals for sure, the re-use of the knuckle seals will depend on whether you can get them out undamaged or not. Only hope of doing that is with a pry bar against the u-joint. Are you wanting to do a complete rebuild, or just replace those inner seals? Hopefully they don't leak anymore, and you don't have to do anything but change the fluid and take a peek inside at the ring and pinion. Pull the fill plug and see if anything comes out. If it does, you might have water in there that raised the fluid level. Also, good idea to check the vent tubes like you mentioned above.
I cleaned the rust off my cover and painted it up before I put it back on for corrosion prevention.
Guess if I'm ordering parts it's best to get all that I need like : knuckle , dust and inner seals, RTV and fluids. Will do some pre work on testing vacuum thru the hubs to get a baseline.
I deread the moment on this one cause its a new experience with the pumpkin disassemble. I should check the pumpkin prior to diving in to see if in fact there is water in there. Perhaps fixed that could help the problem. I can save all the fluids if I need to go back in again right ?
If you find no water in there, and the fluid looks good to you, there should be no problem with putting the fluid back in. I use the ultimate gray RTV. Let it cure for a couple of hours before putting the oil back.
If you find no water in there, and the fluid looks good to you, there should be no problem with putting the fluid back in. I use the ultimate gray RTV. Let it cure for a couple of hours before putting the oil back.