Help!
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Help!
New to diesel trucks, but I have a 1992 Ford f250, 7.3 idiot, e4od, I just put the motor in the truck, AAMCO rebuilt the transmission. The water temp gauge inside the truck wasn't working so I installed an aftermarket gauge. It showed the truck running at 190 for a while, then up to 210 for a while, then up to 230. Is this the normal running temp for the truck? Could the cooling system not be working properly? It is filled with 70% antifreeze-30% water. It hasn't blew steam but the hoses are pressurized from the coolant being hot. If you have any ideas I am all ears.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 333
Likes: 0
From: Co
First off back the coolant mixture down to 50/50, your not doing yourself any favors by running 70% coolant. Second off 230 definatly isnt normal, you want right around 200, start by checking your fan clutch followed closly by the thermostat (in both cases use only motorcraft replacments).
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,560
Likes: 1
230 is about as hot as you should be willing to let it get when working it hard, so not damaging hot, but not where you should be running empty either.
you might also want to inspect your radiator, 20 year old radiators are often pretty corroded up inside, which reduces their ability to transfer heat
let me clarify here, you said it was 190 for awhile, then 210 for awhile, then 230. do you mean that for a couple months it was 190, then for a couple months 210.... or do you mean that for 5 miles it held 190, then for the next 5 miles 210.....
if its the second option i gave, that sounds a lot like a thermostat that won't open all the way.
you might also want to inspect your radiator, 20 year old radiators are often pretty corroded up inside, which reduces their ability to transfer heat
let me clarify here, you said it was 190 for awhile, then 210 for awhile, then 230. do you mean that for a couple months it was 190, then for a couple months 210.... or do you mean that for 5 miles it held 190, then for the next 5 miles 210.....
if its the second option i gave, that sounds a lot like a thermostat that won't open all the way.
Clueless spectator!
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,587
Likes: 6
From: Denver, CO
Dixie,
First of all welcome to the forum.
I wouldn't suspect a fan clutch, unless you are running under load on hills in warm temps. I towed my fifth wheel all over Oregon, and would only heat up on grades with a half clogged radiator and bad fan clutch. I replaced the clutch, and she kept cool on most grades, and only heated up when on the steepest grades, so if you are not working her hard, it is probably not your fan clutch. When she starts to run hot, feel your top and bottom radiator hoses, they should both be too hot to keep your hand on. If your bottom one is not, you don't have good flow through your radiator. It could be your t-stat, but it is a bitch to get to on these motors. I would start by feeling the radiator hoses and move on to the t-stat.
Good luck,
Mac.
First of all welcome to the forum.
I wouldn't suspect a fan clutch, unless you are running under load on hills in warm temps. I towed my fifth wheel all over Oregon, and would only heat up on grades with a half clogged radiator and bad fan clutch. I replaced the clutch, and she kept cool on most grades, and only heated up when on the steepest grades, so if you are not working her hard, it is probably not your fan clutch. When she starts to run hot, feel your top and bottom radiator hoses, they should both be too hot to keep your hand on. If your bottom one is not, you don't have good flow through your radiator. It could be your t-stat, but it is a bitch to get to on these motors. I would start by feeling the radiator hoses and move on to the t-stat.
Good luck,
Mac.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
The top radiator hose is definatly warmer than the bottom, I can hold the bottom, it is warm but I can hold it, the top I can only hold for a few seconds. Would the prime suspect be the thermostat in a senerio like this?
Trending Topics
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,437
Likes: 4
From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
Yes, thermostat is very possible. Don't use aftermarket. Motorcraft only when replacing the thermostat.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 20,347
Likes: 802
From: Mi'kma'ki
water is what keeps the engine cool.coolant does the rust inhibitors and sca etc.so by running 70/30 your bound to run warmer than if you ran the recommend 50/50.id also suggest starting there.
http://www.amazon.com/Prestone-AF142...=5336108633-20
as for answering the question on how to test the fan clutch;
230 is still normal operating temps.the upper hose can reach 237 under load.just running down the road empty you should only be running 195-210ish.
see the coolant links in my sigs below for more.all 3 you'll find helpful even if you lack interests in the e-fans.there is still info you'll find useful in that one too.
http://www.amazon.com/Prestone-AF142...=5336108633-20
as for answering the question on how to test the fan clutch;
Here it is, kinda long.
Engine cooling fan clutch test
The purpose of this procedure is to determine whether the fan clutch is functioning properly, or to determine if the clutch is not engaging, not disengaging, or causing vibration. Worn or damaged cooling fan clutches should be replaced with the proper service part. Do not attempt to modify the bi-metallic coil on the face of the fan clutch.
Locate a piece of cardboard large enough to cover the front of the radiator and an engine tachometer before proceeding with this diagnostic test.
1. Turn off air conditioner, heater - A/C fan, radio and any other accessories.
2. Before starting the engine, rotate the fan by hand. It should have some viscous drag, but it should turn smoothly during the full 360 degrees of rotation. The fan clutch should be replaced if it does not turn smoothly, or if it does not turn at all. If the fan clutch spins with no viscous drag when it is cold, and has not been run for an hour or more, it should be replaced.
3.To check for excessive fan clutch bearing clearance (cold fan clutch), hold the tip of the fan blade between the thumb and forefinger and lightly pull toward the radiator, then push toward the engine, repeating the motion several times. The total rocking movement at the end of the blade should be 5 mm (2/10") or less when no more than 8 ounces of force is applied. A force greater than eight ounces may deflect the blade and give erroneous results. Replace the fan clutch if more than 5 mm (2/10") of movement is observed.
4. Install a temporary engine tachometer if the vehicle is not equipped with a tachometer.
5. During the following tests, be sure to monitor the coolant temperature (temperature gauge in the instrument cluster) and shut off the engine if the temperature rises above the maximum recommended limit for the engine, or if coolant is discharged outside the system. The tests can be resumed using the following procedures after the coolant temp drops off to a normal operating level.
6. If the hood is left open, the fan noise may be easier to hear.
7. Start the engine. The fan clutch may be engaged when the engine is first started. This will be apparent from the noise level which has a distinctive roar. The fan clutch engagement is due to the viscous silicone fluid draining back and filling the gap between the input and output components. Running the engine at a consistent speed of about 2000 RPM should pump the fluid back to it's reservoir, disengaging the fan clutch after no more than five minutes. As the fan speed drops declines, the noise will drop off to a level inaudible to most observers. If the fan does not disengage after five minutes at 2000 RPM, the fan clutch should be replaced.
8. Stop the engine. Cut and install a piece of cardboard large enough to cover the front of the radiator with a 6" diameter hole in line with the fan clutch. If it is not possible to install the cardboard directly against the radiator, attach it to the A/C condenser.
9. Start the engine. With a gasoline engine at 2700 to 3000 RPM or a diesel at 2100 to 2300 RPM, the vehicle coolant temperature gauge will rise at a steadily as the engine warms, then appear to level off for a short time when the thermostat opens. Make a note of the temperature gauge position when the thermostat opens. The engine coolant temperature will continue to rise until the fan clutch engages.
10. Continue to observe the coolant temperature gauge. As the fan clutch engages the fan noise will continue to increase and then level off at full engagement. The fan may cycle off and on during the initial engagement. If the fan does not engage before the maximum safe operating temp is reached, it should be replaced.
11. After completion of the above tests, shut off the engine. Remove the cardboard cover from the front of the radiator. Restart and return the gas engine to 2700 to 3000 RPM or the diesel to 2100 to 2300 RPM, continuing to watch the coolant temperature which will begin to decrease. The fan RPM will drop to a reduced noise level where it was before the cycle began which indicates the fan clutch has disengaged. If the fan clutch remains engaged and the coolant temp has dropped below the thermostat opening temperature for at least five minutes, the fan clutch should be replaced.
12. If the fan clutch is replaced for any of the above test steps, the test should be repeated to verify the fix and owner satisfaction.
Engine cooling fan clutch test
The purpose of this procedure is to determine whether the fan clutch is functioning properly, or to determine if the clutch is not engaging, not disengaging, or causing vibration. Worn or damaged cooling fan clutches should be replaced with the proper service part. Do not attempt to modify the bi-metallic coil on the face of the fan clutch.
Locate a piece of cardboard large enough to cover the front of the radiator and an engine tachometer before proceeding with this diagnostic test.
1. Turn off air conditioner, heater - A/C fan, radio and any other accessories.
2. Before starting the engine, rotate the fan by hand. It should have some viscous drag, but it should turn smoothly during the full 360 degrees of rotation. The fan clutch should be replaced if it does not turn smoothly, or if it does not turn at all. If the fan clutch spins with no viscous drag when it is cold, and has not been run for an hour or more, it should be replaced.
3.To check for excessive fan clutch bearing clearance (cold fan clutch), hold the tip of the fan blade between the thumb and forefinger and lightly pull toward the radiator, then push toward the engine, repeating the motion several times. The total rocking movement at the end of the blade should be 5 mm (2/10") or less when no more than 8 ounces of force is applied. A force greater than eight ounces may deflect the blade and give erroneous results. Replace the fan clutch if more than 5 mm (2/10") of movement is observed.
4. Install a temporary engine tachometer if the vehicle is not equipped with a tachometer.
5. During the following tests, be sure to monitor the coolant temperature (temperature gauge in the instrument cluster) and shut off the engine if the temperature rises above the maximum recommended limit for the engine, or if coolant is discharged outside the system. The tests can be resumed using the following procedures after the coolant temp drops off to a normal operating level.
6. If the hood is left open, the fan noise may be easier to hear.
7. Start the engine. The fan clutch may be engaged when the engine is first started. This will be apparent from the noise level which has a distinctive roar. The fan clutch engagement is due to the viscous silicone fluid draining back and filling the gap between the input and output components. Running the engine at a consistent speed of about 2000 RPM should pump the fluid back to it's reservoir, disengaging the fan clutch after no more than five minutes. As the fan speed drops declines, the noise will drop off to a level inaudible to most observers. If the fan does not disengage after five minutes at 2000 RPM, the fan clutch should be replaced.
8. Stop the engine. Cut and install a piece of cardboard large enough to cover the front of the radiator with a 6" diameter hole in line with the fan clutch. If it is not possible to install the cardboard directly against the radiator, attach it to the A/C condenser.
9. Start the engine. With a gasoline engine at 2700 to 3000 RPM or a diesel at 2100 to 2300 RPM, the vehicle coolant temperature gauge will rise at a steadily as the engine warms, then appear to level off for a short time when the thermostat opens. Make a note of the temperature gauge position when the thermostat opens. The engine coolant temperature will continue to rise until the fan clutch engages.
10. Continue to observe the coolant temperature gauge. As the fan clutch engages the fan noise will continue to increase and then level off at full engagement. The fan may cycle off and on during the initial engagement. If the fan does not engage before the maximum safe operating temp is reached, it should be replaced.
11. After completion of the above tests, shut off the engine. Remove the cardboard cover from the front of the radiator. Restart and return the gas engine to 2700 to 3000 RPM or the diesel to 2100 to 2300 RPM, continuing to watch the coolant temperature which will begin to decrease. The fan RPM will drop to a reduced noise level where it was before the cycle began which indicates the fan clutch has disengaged. If the fan clutch remains engaged and the coolant temp has dropped below the thermostat opening temperature for at least five minutes, the fan clutch should be replaced.
12. If the fan clutch is replaced for any of the above test steps, the test should be repeated to verify the fix and owner satisfaction.
230 is still normal operating temps.the upper hose can reach 237 under load.just running down the road empty you should only be running 195-210ish.
see the coolant links in my sigs below for more.all 3 you'll find helpful even if you lack interests in the e-fans.there is still info you'll find useful in that one too.
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,203
Likes: 0
Before you get carried away replacing your cooling system, get an infrared thermometer, check the upper radiator hose in a few different spots and the thermostat hosing. If it reads close to your temp gauge then you have aproblem. If not your gauge is reading wrong.
If your truck is running hot, don’t limp it around. The oil for your new transmission cools thought your radiator. If your engine is running hot your transmission is hot too and it doesn’t take long to ruin it.
If your truck is running hot, don’t limp it around. The oil for your new transmission cools thought your radiator. If your engine is running hot your transmission is hot too and it doesn’t take long to ruin it.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 6,938
Likes: 13
Could be water pump, t-stat, radiator. Youre fine running 30/70 mix, for anyone that doesnt know, there is nothing wrong with running that, its just not needed usually.
I would do the cheap stuff, water pump / t-stat, then give it hell, if thats not it im guessing radiator.
I would do the cheap stuff, water pump / t-stat, then give it hell, if thats not it im guessing radiator.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
I have a motorcraft thermostat to go in, I have a spare waterpump and a spare radiator. Hopefully its one of those, I just don't have a spare fan clutch and for the price of a new clutch I would look into electric fans
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
joegeds
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
1
Aug 11, 2016 08:44 AM
2001navigatorbless
Cooling, Heating, Ventilation & A/C
2
Oct 15, 2013 06:27 AM
JonMichael
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
5
May 1, 2002 11:27 AM
JonMichael
Explorer, Sport Trac, Mountaineer & Aviator
3
Apr 26, 2002 12:48 PM