Aluminum Radiator
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
From: Oxnard, CA
Aluminum Radiator
Has anyone used these? Or know anything about the company?
1959-1965 Ford Pickup Truck New All Aluminum Radiator 1959 1960 1961 1962 1963 1964 1965
Seems like most people have gone with the Jegs aftermarket radiator, but this one seems like it would be a better fit.
Any input would be appreciated, thank you!
1959-1965 Ford Pickup Truck New All Aluminum Radiator 1959 1960 1961 1962 1963 1964 1965
Seems like most people have gone with the Jegs aftermarket radiator, but this one seems like it would be a better fit.
Any input would be appreciated, thank you!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
I have good success for many years with Modine brand radiators. Check with your local parts house too. There is no real need for the more expensive alum. rad. but if ya gotta have one, spend your money as you please.
John
John
New User
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
I got the Champion one off of ebay. No complaints so far, other than I had to get the outlet hose on the bottom switch because it was set up for the inline six and I got a 292.
Apparently they don't actually make them for the 292 so they would have charged me and modified it before the shipped it. But still no complaints. A quick couple of phone calls and I found a place to do it and test it.
Apparently they don't actually make them for the 292 so they would have charged me and modified it before the shipped it. But still no complaints. A quick couple of phone calls and I found a place to do it and test it.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,315
Likes: 0
From: Rossmoor at Seal Beach
Seems a bit pricey, got mine through Jegs for 150, and it is a triple pass cross flow, much more effective at cooling than the down flow, but then again I have a moderately built big block engine. It is all a matter of choice. Aluminum is vastly better at cooling than the stock copper /brass units, and the corrosion issues are virtually non existent, in the aluminum radiators..
Now is a good time to switch to an electric fan if you haven't already... run cooler, and free up horsepower
Now is a good time to switch to an electric fan if you haven't already... run cooler, and free up horsepower
More Turbo
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 707
Likes: 2
From: Sauk City, WI
Ill give you a link here, draw your own assumptions:
Cap-A-Radiator
Thermal Conductivity of some common Materials and Gases
I say compare the costs for starters. This is always the controlling factor for me.
Copper and brass have higher heat conductivity than aluminum, but older rads have a tendency to corrode/foul/plug easier. Newer copper/brass radiators do not have this problem due to a change in manufacturing methods. Copper/brass radiators are also easier to repair. They are also heavier.
Aluminum has lower thermal conductivity than copper/brass. It is lighter. It looks really nice. It is harder to repair.
You also start to get into the entire mixed metal debate and galvanic corrosion. In an engine you have multiple types of metal, steel, cast iron, copper, brass, and aluminum generally. Due to a bunch of scientific crap and how these metals react with each other mixing everything together is generally a bad idea, even with 50/50 antifreeze water. Wikipedia has a decent explanation on how it works.
Galvanic corrosion - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Galvanic Corrosion, theory documents Galvanic Bimetallic Corrosion
In short, buy what you want. Dont discount a quality made copper/brass radiator over an aluminum one. A properly manufactured copper/brass radiator will cool better than an aluminum one. Aluminum does have its advantages as well.
Cap-A-Radiator
Thermal Conductivity of some common Materials and Gases
I say compare the costs for starters. This is always the controlling factor for me.
Copper and brass have higher heat conductivity than aluminum, but older rads have a tendency to corrode/foul/plug easier. Newer copper/brass radiators do not have this problem due to a change in manufacturing methods. Copper/brass radiators are also easier to repair. They are also heavier.
Aluminum has lower thermal conductivity than copper/brass. It is lighter. It looks really nice. It is harder to repair.
You also start to get into the entire mixed metal debate and galvanic corrosion. In an engine you have multiple types of metal, steel, cast iron, copper, brass, and aluminum generally. Due to a bunch of scientific crap and how these metals react with each other mixing everything together is generally a bad idea, even with 50/50 antifreeze water. Wikipedia has a decent explanation on how it works.
Galvanic corrosion - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Galvanic Corrosion, theory documents Galvanic Bimetallic Corrosion
In short, buy what you want. Dont discount a quality made copper/brass radiator over an aluminum one. A properly manufactured copper/brass radiator will cool better than an aluminum one. Aluminum does have its advantages as well.
New User
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Radiator Options
Greetings,
We have a 1964 F100 that we are dropping a 351w in and need to know what options we have for replacing the original radiator. We are new to all of this and want to make sure that we don't waste money on the wrong radiator set up. My son is paying for everything and he is only 16! Is it as easy as buying an original-fit radiator or are there special considerations with the engine swap to the 351w?
Thanks,
Joe and Josh
1964 F100 Custom Cab, 292 Y-block
2011 Mustang GT, Kona Blue, 6-spd manual
We have a 1964 F100 that we are dropping a 351w in and need to know what options we have for replacing the original radiator. We are new to all of this and want to make sure that we don't waste money on the wrong radiator set up. My son is paying for everything and he is only 16! Is it as easy as buying an original-fit radiator or are there special considerations with the engine swap to the 351w?
Thanks,
Joe and Josh
1964 F100 Custom Cab, 292 Y-block
2011 Mustang GT, Kona Blue, 6-spd manual
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Lead Gopher
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 10,070
Likes: 1,626
From: Seattle
I would always opt for repairing an original as opposed to a replacement. I just drop them off at my local radiator shop and they come back looking and working like new. The upper radiator tank is date coded and goes with the truck. Once you change to an aftermarket you lose that originality.
Radiators - Seattle Radiator Works - radiator repair in Seattle
Chad
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Radiators - Seattle Radiator Works - radiator repair in Seattle
Chad
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,389
Likes: 58
The main concern would be inlet and outlet locations and sizes.
If those locations and sizes are ok with the stock radiator, then you may not even need to replace it. The stock radiator will cool a stock to mild Windsor just fine.
If the radiator needs repair or replacement, then you can get Chinese direct fit aluminum radiators for a very reasonable price. Some of the suppliers can even modify the inlet / outlet locations for an additional fee, to work perfectly with whichever engine you choose.
If you prefer American made, there are options for that, too, but expect to pay about 2 to 3 times the price.
If those locations and sizes are ok with the stock radiator, then you may not even need to replace it. The stock radiator will cool a stock to mild Windsor just fine.
If the radiator needs repair or replacement, then you can get Chinese direct fit aluminum radiators for a very reasonable price. Some of the suppliers can even modify the inlet / outlet locations for an additional fee, to work perfectly with whichever engine you choose.
If you prefer American made, there are options for that, too, but expect to pay about 2 to 3 times the price.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Joe, I am not certain on the 1st year of the 302 install, but early 70s should work. You may have to make some mount mods to make it fit, but it should have the correct positions and sizes to connect your 351W. 
John
John
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 860
Likes: 13
From: Asheville, NC
Here is another thread regarding aluminum radiators
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...radiators.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...radiators.html
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 139
Likes: 1
I found one that will work.
Advanced auto sells a carquest #433433,it's a 2 core aluminum for $139.
Cheaper with a coupon.
It almost fits,almost.
The bolt holes line up, this is good.
It's a front attached ,we need one that attaches from the rear, good news,the sides are bolted on, flip them over. But it still won't fit, so you space it out toward the motor 3/4"
For spacers I used 1/2" nuts, taped two together and it worked out.
The bolts are 3/8-16 so pick up 4 new ones 2" long
The bottom outlet is 1 3/4" so we need a hose. Dayco C70737, it's 2" on one end 1 3/4 on the other.there is no spring in it so take it out of your old hose and twist it in the new one, put your clams on.
Top hose, the outlet is both 2" and 13/4" ,if your old hose is good put it on,your done. If not get a gates hose #21034, the hose is " and 13/4 on the other end. But it won't fit,so cut 13/4" off the 2" end, but now it won't slip on,it will just start,so use your heat gun to stretch it a little, I had an extra spring so I twisted it in there to, but it's the pressure side,so it should not collapse, but the bottom suction could without the spring inside.
Your done and you get a life time guarantee.
I have pictures but can't load them
Hope this helps someone else
Advanced auto sells a carquest #433433,it's a 2 core aluminum for $139.
Cheaper with a coupon.
It almost fits,almost.
The bolt holes line up, this is good.
It's a front attached ,we need one that attaches from the rear, good news,the sides are bolted on, flip them over. But it still won't fit, so you space it out toward the motor 3/4"
For spacers I used 1/2" nuts, taped two together and it worked out.
The bolts are 3/8-16 so pick up 4 new ones 2" long
The bottom outlet is 1 3/4" so we need a hose. Dayco C70737, it's 2" on one end 1 3/4 on the other.there is no spring in it so take it out of your old hose and twist it in the new one, put your clams on.
Top hose, the outlet is both 2" and 13/4" ,if your old hose is good put it on,your done. If not get a gates hose #21034, the hose is " and 13/4 on the other end. But it won't fit,so cut 13/4" off the 2" end, but now it won't slip on,it will just start,so use your heat gun to stretch it a little, I had an extra spring so I twisted it in there to, but it's the pressure side,so it should not collapse, but the bottom suction could without the spring inside.
Your done and you get a life time guarantee.
I have pictures but can't load them
Hope this helps someone else
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
I have always been told that aluminum radiators should be mounted with rubber insulators to cut down on potential corrosion issues down the line.
I haven't pulled mine yet, but from looking at it they appear solid mounted from the factory.
I haven't pulled mine yet, but from looking at it they appear solid mounted from the factory.
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