Leaf Springs Need Replaced?
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From: Black Hawk,SD
Leaf Springs Need Replaced?
As I restore my 1979 F250 Ranger, I will have my suspension toar apart. My leaf springs all seem to have planty of "spring" to them so how do I know if I should replace them or not?
Also, the rear end seems to sit up pretty high compared to the front end. Has this truck been lifted? There are blocks (name?????) between the rear axle and the springs probably 3" tall or so. Was that stock or has somebody put those in? The front does not have them.
I do not like the look of the rear end sitting higher than the front end. I would rather the truck sits close to level.
Does the term "Ranger" have something to do with the suspension setup? What was the "Ranger" name for?
Also, the rear end seems to sit up pretty high compared to the front end. Has this truck been lifted? There are blocks (name?????) between the rear axle and the springs probably 3" tall or so. Was that stock or has somebody put those in? The front does not have them.
I do not like the look of the rear end sitting higher than the front end. I would rather the truck sits close to level.
Does the term "Ranger" have something to do with the suspension setup? What was the "Ranger" name for?
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From: Idaho
ideally the leaf springs should arc slightly upwards with no weight in the back of the truck. If they are getting weak they might sag or be flat...or if you put a little weight in it...and it sinks...prob need replacing. As far as the lift...I am trying to figure out my truck...I believe it has a stock block installed. As I found a diagram that has something that looks like what I have. I want to get a legit lift on mine.
Ford Truck Technical Drawings and Schematics - Section B - Brake Systems and Related Components
Ford Truck Technical Drawings and Schematics - Section B - Brake Systems and Related Components
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From: Black Hawk,SD
Yes, the rear ones do arch up probably like they are supposed to. The front ones do sag slightly but I have seen others that do as well so that is probably typical? Not sure.
This is one of those questions where its all toar apart so that is the best time to replace parts, but, in this case, do I just replace them becuase it's all toar apart?
It always seemed pretty rigid driveing around town and such, unfortunately, I never towed or ahauled with it so I am not sure how much it sunk in the rear end when it had a heavy load in it.
This is one of those questions where its all toar apart so that is the best time to replace parts, but, in this case, do I just replace them becuase it's all toar apart?
It always seemed pretty rigid driveing around town and such, unfortunately, I never towed or ahauled with it so I am not sure how much it sunk in the rear end when it had a heavy load in it.
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To my knowledge ford built the truck's like that so when you throw a load in it, it would sit level. Do the rear blocks have 2 holes cast in them where the outside ubolt goes through? If so that is stock. Do the front leaves sit fairly level or maybe alittle negative arch? That is normal.
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From: Black Hawk,SD
I do not believe they have holes cast into them for the u-bolts but I am not sure on that. I will have to look. The blocks do have material that stick out a few inches and point in.
Yes, the front springs do sit slightly sagged.
Yes, the front springs do sit slightly sagged.
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That horn type thing that stick toward the inside is for the bump stop that is suppose to be on the bottom of th frame. Sometimes they rot off or have been broke off earlier in life. Sound's like it has not been abused to bad. Are you planning on a lift kit. A 4 inch lift makes them sit like a highboy.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Oregon
Sounds like you have a normal stock setup. If you'd like to level it off there are a few options such as Skyjacker with front lift springs and an add-a-leaf in the rear or new rear springs should you choose to spend the money.
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be nice to know the pros and cons of the various replacement suspensions available .Spring shop here wants lots of money to build new ones. no doubt they are good but they want just about 1000 per axle when the smoke clears.
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From: Black Hawk,SD
All good information guys.....thanks. Sounds like my setup is stock and I feel like they are in fine shape. I will probably just clean them up, paint, etc.... and replace the attaching hardware as needed.
One more question.....the front side of the rear leaf springs have a metal bracket with a bolt through it that keeps the leafs inline with one another. However, the back side (the side behind the axle) does no have this bracket around them and consequently, the second from the bottom leaf is off center with the others. Big deal? Can I/Should I put a bracket around it when I put them back together?
One more question.....the front side of the rear leaf springs have a metal bracket with a bolt through it that keeps the leafs inline with one another. However, the back side (the side behind the axle) does no have this bracket around them and consequently, the second from the bottom leaf is off center with the others. Big deal? Can I/Should I put a bracket around it when I put them back together?
Hotshot
Joined: Sep 2012
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From: Calgary
Big tall blocks seperating your axle and leafs will give you axle hop when you hammer it. Don't know how it affects 4x4s but it's a pain in the butt, ha ha, for 2 wheelers. Put brackets on the rear of your springs where they're missing, they affect your spring compression rate under load.
More Turbo
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From: in the middle of nowhere
Big tall blocks seperating your axle and leafs will give you axle hop when you hammer it. Don't know how it affects 4x4s but it's a pain in the butt, ha ha, for 2 wheelers. Put brackets on the rear of your springs where they're missing, they affect your spring compression rate under load.
Hotshot
Joined: Sep 2012
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From: Calgary
This is a reply from someone who is used to rwd not 4wd. The rear brackets will keep your springs in alignment and give you more compression strength when your carrying a load. You guys with 4wd do things with your trucks that would kill 2wd trucks. you may not want a stiffer rear suspension that 2wds use. I've never really considered the difference in wheel hop under braking but I would think that even with the brackets in place there would be enough flex in the spring to prevent wheel hop. But as I said I'm used to rwd and your suspension geometry may be different enough that the rules I'm used don't apply. I would like to know either way in case a situation like this comes up with someone I know. That way I'll know the full answer. I drive a 1 ton dually and I like the ox cart style suspension that takes a ton of wieght to soften the ride. It really takes a skill set to drive on snow & ice which is why I'm the only 1 who drives it.
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The riveted and clamped keepers on the front of the springs imo are to improve handling by more or less creating a swingarm out of the packs .you wouldn't want keepers on the back of the rear springs or it would likely reduce the available amount of god given articulation and traction when you have only one wheel touching the ground. The front axle has Clevis type keepers as retainers kind of as a safety to stop rolling but still enable the leafs to glide on one another to allow flexibility . Important on vehicles not equipped with sway bars .
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