Rust and Radius Arm Brackets
Rust and Radius Arm Brackets
On the driver side I have this (looks new).

on the passenger side I got this..

Whats involved with replacing this bracket??
The frame has surface rust.. all the body mounts from the fender back are good and intact.. only 1 hole near the rear tail gate under the body..

The shock towers are rusty but seem OK for new shocks..

I plan on stripping all the rust off the frame and mounts and using POR or the Rustoleum Rust stuff..

on the passenger side I got this..

Whats involved with replacing this bracket??
The frame has surface rust.. all the body mounts from the fender back are good and intact.. only 1 hole near the rear tail gate under the body..

The shock towers are rusty but seem OK for new shocks..

I plan on stripping all the rust off the frame and mounts and using POR or the Rustoleum Rust stuff..
The brackets have a combo of bolts and rivets, when I did mine we used a grinder to get the rivets flush with the bracket then used an air hammer to punch them out. If you use OEM new brackets the holes should match up, just get new bolts. With my lift kit I added a drop bracket to the stock brackets so I had to drill new holes and bigger holes which was a pain in the ***. Those springs look factory they are prolly ready to get changed out. Oh also, removing the bolt on the radius arm itself will be a pain. I'd recommend having a propane torch ready to heat up other wise that thing may not move. I tried a 1inch impact gun that sounded like an ak47 going off and it wouldn't budge that bolt it was so rusted on.
I've used both the rustoleum rust reformer and por15 on my mazda rx7 both were good in their own regards but for a job like that i would definitely use the por15. the rustoleum is good for smaller spots of rust in areas that don't see as much water (ie interior) but the por15 is much more durable in areas like under your car etc.
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