Installing new radius arm brackets, which bolts?
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2006
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Installing new radius arm brackets, which bolts?
Hey all,
by now you know what I'm up to with my truck, removing the P.O. installed home made incorrect lift kit and going back to a stock suspension (for now). I've ordered the factory radius arm brackets from JBG and have everything else I need (shocks, springs, bushing kits etc.)
My question is this: If anyone has ever done a build like this, what size and grade bolts did you use to mount the r.a. brackets to the frame? Would this be the time for grade 8 hardware with locknuts and lock tite? Any tips or hints?The original brackets on ford trucks were riveted to the frame.
Any extra info will be appreciated
DS
by now you know what I'm up to with my truck, removing the P.O. installed home made incorrect lift kit and going back to a stock suspension (for now). I've ordered the factory radius arm brackets from JBG and have everything else I need (shocks, springs, bushing kits etc.)
My question is this: If anyone has ever done a build like this, what size and grade bolts did you use to mount the r.a. brackets to the frame? Would this be the time for grade 8 hardware with locknuts and lock tite? Any tips or hints?The original brackets on ford trucks were riveted to the frame.
Any extra info will be appreciated
DS
Elder User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 506
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From: Edwards Air Force Base
I couldn't find grade 8 locknuts so used grade 8 bolts, lock washers and nuts and then used the locktite on everything as well. I wouldn't skimp here as there is enormous strain on the drive train and suspension and murphy's law will apply if you leave one weak spot soemwhere like lower grade locknuts.
Also, while you have the brackets off, I would rust proof under them and the brackets themselves as good as you can. I have a rust free truck but was amazed at the crud hiding under the brackets when I had them off. I would use rust bullet or POR-15 if I could or at the minimum a few coats of good paint that have dried thouroughly.
Good Luck,
Lee
Also, while you have the brackets off, I would rust proof under them and the brackets themselves as good as you can. I have a rust free truck but was amazed at the crud hiding under the brackets when I had them off. I would use rust bullet or POR-15 if I could or at the minimum a few coats of good paint that have dried thouroughly.
Good Luck,
Lee
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,635
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From: Niceville, FL.
I think the holes are/were for metric fasteners. The PO may have drilled out the frame holes when he installed the "lift kit". You don't want any "play" there so I'd make certain both the new bracket holes and the frame holes are the same size and the fasteners fit properly in both. I doubt Grade 8 bolts are required, I'm pretty sure the rivets weren't nearly that hard since they're fairly easy to drill out. Grade 8 fasteners are high in tensile (stretch) strength but due to their hardness they are brittle and may break under lateral loads. Check thi link: http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-in...t.aspx#general
Elder User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 506
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From: Edwards Air Force Base
I used a 7/16 grade 8 for all my stuff and have had no problems thus far.... knock on wood.
I tried various bolts and the 7/16 was the tightest fit so I would go with that unless like he said, they drilled or ground it out.
Lee
I tried various bolts and the 7/16 was the tightest fit so I would go with that unless like he said, they drilled or ground it out.
Lee
