Intermittant starting issue
My main clues were, flooding, a smell of gasoline, and if left to sit until it got warmer out it would start. One time when it wouldn't start I connected my scanner and could see the ECM was getting a pulse from the crank sensor. So I've been mulling over in my head, what could cause the engine to not start and cause flooding. Then it hit me, the truck has 150K on it and when I bought it there was around 125K on it. So I figured the original owner didn't change the spark plugs at 100K like he was supposed to. If the plugs were worn and had excess gap then there would be difficulty in generating spark during the cold temperatures.
Fast forward to today, 25 degrees out, truck wouldn't start no matter what I did. That left me under the hood doing the BS job of changing spark plugs today. The gap is supposed to be .52 and the 8 plugs I removed had gaps that ranged from .85 to .95 or roughly 70-82% of a larger gap than was supposed to be there. They were the original Motorcraft AWSF-32P spark plugs that were installed at the factory back in 2001. Put everything back together and it fired right up.
I guess the moral of this story is that if you are not the original owner, then you can't be sure everything that was supposed to be done, was!
My main clues were, flooding, a smell of gasoline, and if left to sit until it got warmer out it would start. One time when it wouldn't start I connected my scanner and could see the ECM was getting a pulse from the crank sensor. So I've been mulling over in my head, what could cause the engine to not start and cause flooding. Then it hit me, the truck has 150K on it and when I bought it there was around 125K on it. So I figured the original owner didn't change the spark plugs at 100K like he was supposed to. If the plugs were worn and had excess gap then there would be difficulty in generating spark during the cold temperatures.
Fast forward to today, 25 degrees out, truck wouldn't start no matter what I did. That left me under the hood doing the BS job of changing spark plugs today. The gap is supposed to be .52 and the 8 plugs I removed had gaps that ranged from .85 to .95 or roughly 70-82% of a larger gap than was supposed to be there. They were the original Motorcraft AWSF-32P spark plugs that were installed at the factory back in 2001. Put everything back together and it fired right up.
I guess the moral of this story is that if you are not the original owner, then you can't be sure everything that was supposed to be done, was!
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Thanks for sharing your experience.
You still got the original COPs in there?
I'm surprised that you didn't have any misfires with those gaps.
(COPs must still be pretty potent.
)
Not one misfire, not one trouble code nor pending trouble code. BTW, if you ever have to do a plug change on a 4 valve with the hidden COPs, make sure you have a long pry bar handy to move the EGR pipe out of the way of COP #8, it runs right above it.
My main clues were, flooding, a smell of gasoline, and if left to sit until it got warmer out it would start. One time when it wouldn't start I connected my scanner and could see the ECM was getting a pulse from the crank sensor. So I've been mulling over in my head, what could cause the engine to not start and cause flooding. Then it hit me, the truck has 150K on it and when I bought it there was around 125K on it. So I figured the original owner didn't change the spark plugs at 100K like he was supposed to. If the plugs were worn and had excess gap then there would be difficulty in generating spark during the cold temperatures.
Fast forward to today, 25 degrees out, truck wouldn't start no matter what I did. That left me under the hood doing the BS job of changing spark plugs today. The gap is supposed to be .52 and the 8 plugs I removed had gaps that ranged from .85 to .95 or roughly 70-82% of a larger gap than was supposed to be there. They were the original Motorcraft AWSF-32P spark plugs that were installed at the factory back in 2001. Put everything back together and it fired right up.
I guess the moral of this story is that if you are not the original owner, then you can't be sure everything that was supposed to be done, was!
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Well my was battery dead and I had an appointment at 8am Monday.
It's 6pm on Sunday, Sears Auto Centers in the area close at 7pm.
I called both, they can't change a battery as the are no longer allowed to work overtime. No matter how much I plead, they won't do it.
Now, the last time I checked, it didn't take THAT long to test and change a battery. No manager available to speak with. I'm getting frustrated and stressing out as I have to keep the appointment the next morning.
My better half asks "Did you call AAA?",
Me: "No, I don't need a jump.",
Her: "I think they do batteries",
Me: Grabs phone.
Yes, AAA does do batteries, gives a warranty, fully tests the system, and WILL COME TO YOU AT 3AM and replace the battery even under warranty replacement any where you are in the country.
The price of the battery was reasonable, but knowing that at least that battery is covered 24/7 for the next 3 (maybe 5) years was well worth it to me.
Just thought I'd share, didn't mean to hijack the thread.
Oh, and I'll NEVER go to a Sears Auto Center ever again.
BTW: I called the Store Manager that week, he was like "Eh".
You just gotta love the Customer Service... NOT!
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