You can buy one of the high zinc "hot rod" oils, or use an additive. The brands above, brad penn etc are good but hard to get. Amsoil makes a high zddp oil if you use systhetic, but again, it may be hard to get. I've got several amsoil dealers in this area so it's an option for me. Comp Cams makes a "break in" oil additive that's easy to get via mail order. They suggest a bottle at break in and then with every oil change. My cam broke in OK with the Comp Cams additive and rotella. I'll keep using the additive along with regular parts store oil and sleep allright.

 

Thanks everyone. Lots of great info. Now I just need to find out what I can get locally.



On edit: Went to NAPA today and found out they stock the full line of Valvoline VR-1. Seems like the best way to go.
Thanks again for all the great input.

 

Amsoil is usually available locally, many of their distributors are home based business. The comp cams additive can be purchased from jegs, summit, etc. Throw a bottle in with every parts purchase.

 

I love oil additives.....there are different theories out there and all have limited Pros and ignor'd Cons.

In general, yes, there are different additives that either use "metals" as a lube agent or "smalller particles" as a lube agent. the theory about metals is that they bond to surfaces and fill in microscopic holes , and this improves lube. some of the metals are slippery. Zinc, Boron, Phosphorous additives are examples. Sure they are slippery, and yes they fill microscopic holes, but...they also cuase corrosion in the case of Zinc and in all cases breakdown the efficiency of sensors and emissions components to include CAT converters. There are Motor Oils that dont have these metals and are safe for emissions systems...but...increase metal wear. FORDs list of approved Oils is an attempt to keep customers within a range of oils that provide adequate lube during the warranty period while not damaging emissions products. FORDS goal is to get you thru the warranty period and they are not concerned about the motor lasting hundreds of miles of decades. So, if you are not going to trade in your truck at the end of the warranty period....and ...dont mind replacing emissions componets due to contamination...use the additives. I use opti-lube and STP's new ceramic additive. too early to tell if the new ceramic additives are worse or better for your emmissions system than the metal based additives.

the smaller particles theory in my mind is BS. oil has soot particles and other small particles in it that are 1 to 10 microns in size...so our oils have smaller particles in it as a by product of Diesel combustion.

One thing I will say, most major brands of oil have some additives in it...these wear out and "drop" ....so increasing your oil change frequency will help in that your running oil which has adequate refiner's additves.

 

I saw at Walmart over the weekend that Castrol is offering a Classic Formula with additional Zinc in gallons

 

Liqui Moly has an additive (not zinc) that’s supposed to provide added protection. Problem is, it’s black, so it’s hard to tell when your oil is getting dirty. I use milage as a maximum, but usually change on the condition (how dirty it looks) of the oil.
These are the two they offer:
- MoS2
- Cera-Tec

 

Wow, a vampire thread from 2013 raises from the dead.

Since this was discussed almost 10 years ago I have started using Lucas zinc additive. My flat tappet cam is still lifting as required...

 

Lucas also makes a muscle car oil .

 

Yeah,

It's pretty clear that it still bothers people with flat tappet engines.

Mobil has a few Mobil-1 oils with very high ZDDP levels.

See the following https://www.mobil.com/lubricants/-/m...ide-rev-31.pdf

I'll probably use Mobil-1 Turbodiesel Truck 5W-40 in my Y-block. 1300ppm ZDDP is more than enough for a stock Y with stock valve springs and you can get it at Walmart.

Or, Valvoline T6 5W40 or Shell Rotella T6 https://comparemotoroils.com/valvoli...ll-rotella-t6/

Both are approved by Ford for the 6.0L diesel engine.

If it's approved for a 6L, it's good enough for a Y-block!

Cheers,

Rick