Thanks Mike! Parts ordered, now its just the long wait for them to arrive.

 

I had the same issue and could not find a part number or reference for the heater return line. I bought a Dayco heater hose - part number 87684 from Advance Auto and the Dorman heater hose quick connect - part number 800-403 and cut the hose down to put together a new hose that worked perfectly. I did end up having a leak at the brass elbow going into the driver's side head; I pulled that out, resealed that connection and have no leaks so far. Hopefully those part numbers help anyone else that runs into the same issue.

 

Good write up @@Nicmike and many thanks! Mine developed the same leak but I figured it was the oil cooler seals. All in all no more coolant leaks!

 

Thanks for the write up. What is the part number for the connector? Picked one up at O'Reilleys today (part 28500), and messed around with it until I figured out that it was not the correct part. Why can't they just make this hose with connector??? Thanks for the help!

P.S. I think the only thing "quick" about these connectors is when they are making the truck at the factory.

 

The heater hose quick connects usually have the car manufacturer they fit on the package. Look for the Ford heater hose quick connect. It will be the Dorman 800-404 or 800-403.

I later ended up removing the quick connect, sliding the hose over the metal tube and double hose clamping it. No more "quick connects", and no more leaks.

 

Thanks for the quick reply. I was thinking of doing exactly that, hose direct to the metal, and have some heavy-duty clamps to go direct to the metal tube. glad to know that worked for you!

I feel better. Thank you.

 

Worked really good with just 5/8 hose and some double wire loop hose clamps. The top went over the bump where the plastic "keeper" for the quick connect was at. I put a clamp on the hose above and one below that bump in the metal tubing/pipe. Took for a long drive, up some good grades, 2500 rpms sustained, pulled over, checked for leaks. None. Same on drive home, checked at home, no leaks. What a relief!

 

All was well so I set out for a 200 mile trip. Caught every red light getting thru the closest town, and finally opened her up on the road, got up to about 65 or 70 and smelled coolant (again).

This time, the upper radiator hose swelled, or contorted, until it contacted the alternator pulley fins, which opened a gash on the top of the hose. I had distilled water with me, so topped off and started limping back to town towards a part store. Every few miles I would stop and see if I needed to top off. It was losing very little coolant, flowing thru the bottom of the hose, and splashing out a little every once in a while through the gash on top. Put the new hose on, topped off, and went home, checking every 5 or 6 miles. All was good.

So this is the third "over-pressure" issue (first was the coolant reservoir tank that had a split along the horizontal seam, second was the rear heater core return hose on the driver's side, and now the "thermostat to radiator" upper radiator hose). All have one thing in common: They come off the water pump. My water pump is producing pressure in excess of what is needed. Why isn't my radiator (coolant tank) cap releasing pressure? Is it an air pocket that needs flushed out of the system? Is it my radiator partially clogged up that allows some coolant to pass, but not 2400 rpm pressure to pass? Temperature never passed halfway on the temp guage.

I am tempted to drill a hole in an old coolant tank cap that I have, and go for a spirited drive, and see if coolant ever spews out of the cap. Any suggestions? How do you check a radiator flow rate at less than 16 lbs pressure?

Thanks in advance!

 

Water pump doesn't make "pressure". It only circulates the coolant. The pressure comes from heat build up in the fluid, a faulty radiator cap vent or from combustion gasses that are getting into the coolant passages through leaking head gaskets or injector cups. Heat build up would be a thermostat that isn't opening or is clogged with debris.

 

Thanks for your quick reply. This is hard for me to diagnose. Heat build up but not indicating more than halfway on temperature guage...No diesel or oil in coolant, after draining it 3 times dealing with the coolant tank and heater hose return. I was already looking for it, worried about injector cups or oil cooler. No coolant in oil, either, as well as no white smoke on starts (head gasket). I do not understand why no overheating has ever occurred. Could it be the radiator? This aluminum radiator was on it since about 60,000 miles ago, And water pump has about 65,000 miles (this is 3rd water pump). The previous owner did not know what coolant was in it when I bought it 25,000 miles ago. It was a fire department vehicle that was excessed due to a bad transmission. If they used bad water (plenty of that in this area), possibly for both replacement water pumps, could that have clogged the radiator? Thanks for your help, just trying to figure out the pressure showing itself with temperature showing OK, and the pressure showing itself past the thermostat (hose bulge/contortion, coolant tank crack) if the thermostat is clogged or stuck.

 

First step is a new quality degas cap or test the one you have.

 

Thanks. I put a new Stant 10238 cap on the new Ford degas bottle when this whole thing started. I am beginning to think that I brought this on myself by using the Ford Diesel Coolant Additive (VC8), while not knowing what coolant was in the vehicle. Trying to read up, now I see where the additive could lead to clogging when used with some non-diesel coolants. Hmmm... I was testing with the Fleetgard test strips, and it showed good for Nitrite, Molybtate, SCA, etc. Going for a coolant flush, Rotella ELC, and new radiator and thermostat before I give up to the pros. Onward through the fog.

 

I've seen some nasty sludge under injector cups in some of my customers' trucks (coolant passages in the heads+heat from nearby combustion chamber). All because of wrong coolant or no maintenance on the right coolant. Coolant system can cause major problems when not maintained or not maintained correctly. The path you have chosen is a wise one.

 

I see the thermostat housing bolts' torque is 15 lbs. Does anybody know what the torque is for the 1/4 inch block plugs that drain the coolant from the block? Or how hard to crank on them to free them?

 

They are pipe thread. I have broken a ratchet adapter trying to get one out before. Use a liquid thread sealant or Teflon tape and get them good and tight. Helps a lot to pull the starter on the psgr side. No idea on the torque and I doubt it's in the manual.