i think i may have found my hpop issues. When installing my new heads i noticed a green coating on the injector cups. The million dollar question is ...Was i supposed to clean all of this out before installiing my injectors? This is my first time inside a 6.0 and thought i had covered all my bases.

 

The inject cups need be clean for the boring to seal

Sorry not on computer right now its messing with my words maybe I need Mobil version

 

What is your driveability co-ncern??

Sorry predictive spelling killing me

I wouldn't think this green injector cup sealant would affect a HPO PROBLEM

It may cause fuel in oil or compression gas into fuel rail

If the copper combustion washer Don't seal properly it will burn up and then fill the cylinder with fuel and Hydro lock it NOT GOOD

Usually try to get the cups as clean as possible before inject install and also coat prints with clean engine oil at install time and torque inject hold down to 26ft/lbs making Shuster the hold down bolt hole is Clean

 

yup the green stuff is loctite

 

No start issue still. I have checked and rechecked everything and i still believe it is a hpop problem. I have had enough, and dont have the proper place to work on it. Got to get back to work in a few days and i really need my truck back and let the wife keep her F250. started right up after r&r heads and gaskets...that was over 2 months ago. it will go to the mechanic tuesday if i cannot figure it out before then

 

how long have you cranked

they take a few

Do a bubble testt to see if inject sealed

Also Triple check FICM Plugs I see it alot where plugs not fulley plugged in and truck wont run


do you have any Gauges

 

What year is your truck? And do you have any gauges that read live data?

 

scan gauge II, I posted results back in december and everything looks ok to everyone, it cranked right after r&r but would not crank the next day and hasnt cranked since. only spins over, we cranked on it a bunch a whole bunch

 

Has it ran since december? If so something has changed and you may want to revisit it with the scan gauge and see if you can glean something from it.

 

It is an 04, new reman motor with 75k on it. No it would not restart after r&r work except for the fist time i cranked on it and it fired right up, hasnt done anything since. this is my post from early January,

A couple of months back I asked for some info about removing my 6.0 to r&r heads and gaskets. Everyone was very helpful, had 3 cracks in 1 and 2 cracks in the other, new heads, new gaskets everything ready to go. Cycled the key a few times to purge fuel and spun about 20 sec started right up. Seemed like boost was down or non existent but didnt have scan gauge installed yet. Anyway ran for 15-20 min, backed down driveway and made a little run down the street a couple hundred yards. Shut off engine waited a min or so to restart and engine spun 20-30 sec before starting. Let it sit overnight and read that a couple of wot runs may clear this up, only one problem....It will not restart... Tried everything, finally got gauge hooked up and this is the readings KOEO

FLP 11.5
FMP 47.5
IPR 14.4
ICP 49


KOEcrankimg

FLP 11.0
FMP 48.0
IPR 77.6
ICP 62

The ICP varied everytime sometimes 3200+ sometimes 1100

I have unplugged the ICP and nothing, I hope someone can help me with this.

Thank In Advance

 

Have you air tested the HPO system yet? I think that would be the best place to start. If that checks out im wondering if you don't have a wire chaffing issue somewhere. Also keep posting in the same thread until you get your issue resolved, it will make it easier for people to look at things you've already done.

 

what is the best way to test hpop

 

Credit for this goes to Bismic.
To check your ipr and hp oil system:
1. Get an ipr connector from Ford and put 2 long wires on the end, plug it into the ipr. Later you will attach the 2 long leads to b+ and negative ...... this will close the ipr.

2. Then remove your icp sensor (04.25 and up truck??) from the passenger side valve cover and thread a fitting in with an air fitting on the end (so you can apply compressed air to the hp oil system).

3. Remove your oil fill cap, your intake up to the turbo (get the ccv out of the valve cover at least), and the hot side cac tube.

4. Then, command the IPR closed for only 30 seconds, apply 100psi air to the hp oil system and listed to where the leak is coming from.

When you hear it you've found your problem....that is assuming you have a hp oil problem.
If your building low and high oil pressure fine, then you've just wasted your time.

Generally on no-start conditions that are related to "high pressure oil" leaks, the vehicle will still develop low pressure system pressures. However, the plug on the H.P. oil feed can occasionally blow out, the H.P. pump seal can blow out, and on the '03-04 trucks the ball on the side of the H.P. pump blow out - causing loss of base oil pressure.

The fitting is a M12x1.5 to 1/8" NPT that will thread into your ICP sensor opening in the passenger valve cover, then you will need to get a ball valve and a quick connect for the air hose and a 1/8" NPT pipe nipple to mate up to the M12X1.5.