I am recovering from a small engine fire which required the replacment of some wiring and few fuel injectors. I had a spare rail and injector combo in the garage from a donor truck. All rubber O-rings looked good. After wrestling with them for a while I found fuel pouring from the injectors where they insert in the manifold. Is there an easier way to insert the injectors besides brut force pushing them in because it did not work out too well last time?

 

You need to make sure the pocket the injector fits into is very clean and smooth, so it may involve getting in there with some sand paper or a sanding roll and dremmel and polishing it up. Good idea to have a vaccumm handy as well. Then coat the O-rings with petrolium jelly and they should pop right in and seal.

 

New o-rings might also be a good idea as the old ones might be swollen.

 

I have done mine and did the following with success. I would use new o-rings top and bottom. When installing, lube them a with a light grade oil. Clean the intake manifold and the fuel supply manifold where the ejector o-ring sits. I used something like 320 grit paper to remove any debris,rust, or ridges from where the old ejectors sat.The surface where the o-ring sits should be real smooth.When installing it,s a twisting , push motion.

 

When I replaced my plenum gasket last weekend, I put all new o-rings in, and lubed them with some light grease before putting them back in. They went in so easy, I was worried about leaks. Before I put the plenum back on, I ran the fuel pump with the test connector to verify leaks, and check for leak-down.

 

Thats a great tip Old Paint

 

You can also just turn the key on and check for leaks.

Also make sure you didn't leave an old o-ring behind when you took out the injectors from before. Sometimes they're really stuck in there and can be left behind when removed.

 

The 2 second run on the pump won't bring it up to full pressure. Mine only bumps up to about 20 PSI when I just turn the key on. Jumpering the Fuel Pump test connector, though, you can leave the pump running while you're inspecting for small leaks that 20 PSI might not come through. Remember, this thing's gonna idle between 30-35 PSI, and it's gonna jump to 40-45 PSI under throttle. Using the fuel pump test input, it runs just like it would under WOT (no vacuum).

Good tip on the o-rings Mustang. I did have to fish 4 of 8 out of the fuel rails. All of 'em came out of the intake, though.

If you're doing this on an engine that's been running a while, just a little prep work tip is to take a shop vac, and clean up all the road debris, minced bugs, sand, and whatever else that collects on top of the intake. (Assuming there are others out there that don't wash their engine in 14 years). The shop vac is also useful for picking up the minor coolant spillage when you're disconnecting the coolant lines to the throttle body. I didn't drain my coolant down. I just plugged the TB lines with a 3/8 bolt. The top line is better left attached to the heater hose. The bottom one is better disconnected at the tree near the ECT. For a work-around, I just took another piece of fuel line and plugged one end, then slipped that on the connection for the TB hose when I pulled the TB hose off. Worked like a champ, and saved me handling the coolant.