Front End SHAKES VIOLENTLY
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Front End SHAKES VIOLENTLY
Forum Friends,
I just drove my family out to San Antonio and am having some major issues.
The Ex has started intermittent (less intermittent now) shaking while driving down the road. Not very noticeable at low speeds 20 or less. Idles smooth.
Took it in and had tires checked, balanced, rotated, and aligned.
No difference. It was so bad my wife got pulled over by a police officer on the freeway here. He was extremely nice, looked under the car and suggested as possibilities. The locking Hubs on the front (4x4), U-Joints, Axle issue, Stuck in 4 wheel drive, or bad power steering pump.
Once she picked me up and we drove home from our dinner, I got pulled over. When it is in its violent shaking mode, it pulls to the right. when the shaking subsides (for an unknown reason) the pull to the right is gone.
I do not notice anything that causes it to start or stop the shaking.
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Anyone have a good mechanic suggestion for San Antonio?
THank,
Steve
931-625-8927
2001 Diesel 4x4, 4" Exhaust, Injen Cold Air Intake
I just drove my family out to San Antonio and am having some major issues.
The Ex has started intermittent (less intermittent now) shaking while driving down the road. Not very noticeable at low speeds 20 or less. Idles smooth.
Took it in and had tires checked, balanced, rotated, and aligned.
No difference. It was so bad my wife got pulled over by a police officer on the freeway here. He was extremely nice, looked under the car and suggested as possibilities. The locking Hubs on the front (4x4), U-Joints, Axle issue, Stuck in 4 wheel drive, or bad power steering pump.
Once she picked me up and we drove home from our dinner, I got pulled over. When it is in its violent shaking mode, it pulls to the right. when the shaking subsides (for an unknown reason) the pull to the right is gone.
I do not notice anything that causes it to start or stop the shaking.
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Anyone have a good mechanic suggestion for San Antonio?
THank,
Steve
931-625-8927
2001 Diesel 4x4, 4" Exhaust, Injen Cold Air Intake
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Join Date: Oct 2001
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The right front brake is hanging up. You need to check the sliding pins first, then if the pads move freely in the bracket, and last if the caliper pistons push in readily. It can also be the hose, but that's rare.
What is happening is one or both pads are failing to retract so they stay in contact with the rotor. As this contact heats up the rotor and the friction material, the friction material will expand and engage stronger, causing the pull. The shaking is occurring due to what is known as thermal distortion. This is not a 'warping' of the rotor that people mistake for causing pulsation, but the uneven heating of the rotor due to hard spots or uneven thickness within the rotor's rubbing disks that cause the two rubbing surfaces to be non-parallel, casing a difference in application pressure. Think in terms of quickly changing how much pressure you are applying to the brake pedal, or having ABS preventing a tire from slipping.
Once the friction material wears away during this "locked" event there is enough clearance to relieve the condition the vibration and pull stops until another brake application brings the friction material in contact with the rotor again. This normally takes some distance before the event initiates, but higher speeds like highway driving brings it on stronger and faster.
What is happening is one or both pads are failing to retract so they stay in contact with the rotor. As this contact heats up the rotor and the friction material, the friction material will expand and engage stronger, causing the pull. The shaking is occurring due to what is known as thermal distortion. This is not a 'warping' of the rotor that people mistake for causing pulsation, but the uneven heating of the rotor due to hard spots or uneven thickness within the rotor's rubbing disks that cause the two rubbing surfaces to be non-parallel, casing a difference in application pressure. Think in terms of quickly changing how much pressure you are applying to the brake pedal, or having ABS preventing a tire from slipping.
Once the friction material wears away during this "locked" event there is enough clearance to relieve the condition the vibration and pull stops until another brake application brings the friction material in contact with the rotor again. This normally takes some distance before the event initiates, but higher speeds like highway driving brings it on stronger and faster.
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So be sure they check both sides.
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Here is a link from this forum talking about calipers for a almost identical issue.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...need-help.html
I am having it looked at today. I will post results.
Steve
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...need-help.html
I am having it looked at today. I will post results.
Steve