Vibrating, pulls to right, then.....need help
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Vibrating, pulls to right, then.....need help
2000 v10 4x4 with v codes.
Last couple of days when starting out and worse on the highway, I get a terrible vibration. Like serious out of balance tire, as well the vehicle wants to pull hard right. Then if I apply the brakes the truck pulls hard left and almost like the front right "dives". What is weird is after 3-4 miles down the road it clears up and goes away and never returns until the next time I drive it.
I thought maybe a seized caliper dragging on a warped rotor but when applying the brakes slowly or quickly I don't get any pulsating in the pedal.
I'm going crawl under in a little bit but I am teriible at front end stuff and looking for pointers on what to look for. New poly bushing throughout front end last year and couple months ago the ball joints still good.
Any suggestions?
Last couple of days when starting out and worse on the highway, I get a terrible vibration. Like serious out of balance tire, as well the vehicle wants to pull hard right. Then if I apply the brakes the truck pulls hard left and almost like the front right "dives". What is weird is after 3-4 miles down the road it clears up and goes away and never returns until the next time I drive it.
I thought maybe a seized caliper dragging on a warped rotor but when applying the brakes slowly or quickly I don't get any pulsating in the pedal.
I'm going crawl under in a little bit but I am teriible at front end stuff and looking for pointers on what to look for. New poly bushing throughout front end last year and couple months ago the ball joints still good.
Any suggestions?
Hotshot
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 13,484
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From: Stevens Point, WI
You thought right, seized pass. side caliper (or caliper pins) is what I would be checking out. They don't always pulse when you put on the brakes. Good way to check is in the morning after you start and go about 2-3 miles down the road, stop and get out and check the temp of the calipers/rotors on both sides. BE CAREFUL! if the caliper/pins is hanging up the rotor/caliper can be very very hot!
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Forgot to mention that is seems I have to get the truck up to highway speeds for a few miles to get it to go away. If just around town the pulling and vibration stay around.
As well a couple of months ago picked up the classic clunking noise as typical with end links but when checked the bushings were still good.
So clunk, vibration, pulls to right when driving then pulls left when braking. But goes away after highway speed driving for a few miles.
As well a couple of months ago picked up the classic clunking noise as typical with end links but when checked the bushings were still good.
So clunk, vibration, pulls to right when driving then pulls left when braking. But goes away after highway speed driving for a few miles.
Hotshot
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 13,484
Likes: 42
From: Stevens Point, WI
yes, all typical symptoms of hanging caliper/pins. After it goes away and you put on the brakes and it pulls the other way is also another dead give away. Whats happening is the pass. side caliper being froze up is boiling the brake fluid in that caliper and glazing the rotor/pads. So when you step on the brakes that side doesn't do anything and the drivers side is actually working which is why it will pull the other way with the brakes on.
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Yep! Passenger rotor much hotter. Didn't even touch it as my hand got close could feel the heat!!
So I'll swing by and get some pins and grease before I get into it. What are ways to ensure the caliper is still good? I always went by how well and smooth it compressed when doing pad changes but is there a way to check the caliper itself?
So I'll swing by and get some pins and grease before I get into it. What are ways to ensure the caliper is still good? I always went by how well and smooth it compressed when doing pad changes but is there a way to check the caliper itself?
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Veteran/Sheepdog
Joined: Feb 2012
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From: Western AR
I would open it up. When I opened up the one up front that was sticking on mine, it was a rust soup inside. Fluid had completely broken down from all the reheating and cooling. I rebuilt the rear, since it was not as bad.
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Hotshot
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 13,484
Likes: 42
From: Stevens Point, WI
From what I have seen once you heat the calipers that many times to the point that the fluid boils and the brake quits working the caliper is normally shot and should be just replaced. When driving my X home the day I bought it I smelled brake when pulling up to a toll booth in IL and knew what was going on right away. Replaced my rear drivers side caliper the next day and no problems since.
Makes sure and flush out all the old fluid good after changing the caliper. What I do I take the hose off the old caliper and let the fluid drip in a bucket. Let the old fluid in the reservoir run down low but not where it lets air into the system, fill with new fluid and watch for the new fluid at the caliper hose. When you see the new clear fluid coming out the hose stick it on the new caliper and bleed it out with a buddy/wife and peddle pressure. I then go around and bleed all the other bleeders one at a time by gravity and just wait to see the new fluid. Always make sure the reservoir is full and doesn't let air in. You'll only have to "bleed" the one new caliper to get the air out of it. The rest of the system should be air free and just needs a fluid refresh.
Makes sure and flush out all the old fluid good after changing the caliper. What I do I take the hose off the old caliper and let the fluid drip in a bucket. Let the old fluid in the reservoir run down low but not where it lets air into the system, fill with new fluid and watch for the new fluid at the caliper hose. When you see the new clear fluid coming out the hose stick it on the new caliper and bleed it out with a buddy/wife and peddle pressure. I then go around and bleed all the other bleeders one at a time by gravity and just wait to see the new fluid. Always make sure the reservoir is full and doesn't let air in. You'll only have to "bleed" the one new caliper to get the air out of it. The rest of the system should be air free and just needs a fluid refresh.
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Since both calipers are original. Should I replace both and just be done with it? I'm hoping the rotor survived but won't have time to inspect well till tomorrow. Just peering through the wheel and feeling the rotor is a little grooved but not bad. They've been turned once I know of. May or may not have any life left if I have to turn them.
Veteran/Sheepdog
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 6,047
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From: Western AR
I replaced both of mine for peace of mind. I bought them with a bunch of other front end parts, so I got a steep discount on them. I think I paid $28 EACH for them at Advance. They have GREAT online coupons...I also went with drilled and slotted rotors for the front and back. Got the fronts for $115 for the pair...eBay! And, YES, the drilled and slotted rotors make a HUGE difference in stopping power and distance.
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Ive decided to just replace the caliper tonight and if the rotor is bad then order replacement slotted rotors and new pads to replace larger on in the week. If I go with new rotors and pads will replace the other front caliper as well. Figured while I'm there and fixing stuff, another $60 is worth the peace of mind.
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Replaced caliper as the one on there had one piston "frozen". It took alot to get the caliper off!! Just for kicks I wanted to compress the piston and it took a huge C channel lock tighten 1/4 turn and alot of elbow grease to break it free.
Any way the rotor was not too bad. Do have a slight pulsation when braking but barely noticeable.
I decided to replace everything anyway so I have powerslot rotors and hawk SD pads on the way (tow a 10k camper so thought the SD might be a better choice). Also will replace driver side caliper in the process.
Thanks for all the help fellas. Saved me alot of $$ and frustration.
Any way the rotor was not too bad. Do have a slight pulsation when braking but barely noticeable.
I decided to replace everything anyway so I have powerslot rotors and hawk SD pads on the way (tow a 10k camper so thought the SD might be a better choice). Also will replace driver side caliper in the process.
Thanks for all the help fellas. Saved me alot of $$ and frustration.