DA1 SPEED DENSITY COMPUTER
If I could get a hp/tq bump out of swapping in a mustang Speed Density computer I might try that before converting to MAF.
I cannot find any definitive information on whether or not its programmed more agressively than the truck computer or not. Thanks for any help.
Would I not see gains in HP and Torque if I used a mustang Speed Density computer?
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As for the mustang vs. truck... yes the 'stang has more hp and tq, but I'm sure both require a higher rpm to achieve than the truck motor. The truck motor will make more torque at lower rpm than the 'stang motor. Keep in mind, the truck computer is designed to run your engine as built, and the same for the 'stang computer, designed to run a 'stang motor. The computer will likely not help your engine a bit, but make it run worse, unless you put a 'stang engine in your truck. The comp. ratios and cams are different, and w/SD this will not work to your benefit the way you think it will. Put a chip in your computer, run a free-flow exhaust, and do a "six-liter" tune on your engine. Much better results...
FWIW, horsepower is figured by torque X rpm to get the 1 HP = 550 ft-lbs/sec. If the engine is capable of generating reasonable torque at higher RPM then you will make more horsepower. Honda engines are a good example, they can make a lot of power at high rpm, but almost no torque below around 4000 rpm. Truck engines are built for low end power which is why a 300 is a better truck engine than a 302.
FWIW, horsepower is figured by torque X rpm to get the 1 HP = 550 ft-lbs/sec. If the engine is capable of generating reasonable torque at higher RPM then you will make more horsepower. Honda engines are a good example, they can make a lot of power at high rpm, but almost no torque below around 4000 rpm. Truck engines are built for low end power which is why a 300 is a better truck engine than a 302.

It's got almost zero power below ~3,000 RPM, (ask Gary, he drove it) but ya hit its power band at ~3,500 and the thing redlines at 7,000 RPM and it becomes really fun, kinda like a motorcycle once you learn how to drive it.

But a Taurus is lots lighter than a truck and can do that.
Franklin, I will say you are probably right, but I will also say this....a stock 86' f150 5.0 is totally anemic in power down low.
I have done a true dual h-pipe exhaust with turbo mufflers. I have also done the ignition upgrade and timing bump. The stock E7TE heads are also slightly massaged out especially on the exhaust side. I had a gt40 exhaust port profile that I used to try to get close to the gt40 head.
I guess the only thing left for me to do is upgrade intakes and do the MAF conversion. I almost have all the parts, just need an A9P ECU, speed sensor, and a different intake tube to adapt the MAS to.
You will see that my long term plans are to convert to MAF SEFI using a WAY1 EEC from a 302 Bronco w/E4OD. The E4OD gave me my biggest problem since only truck EECs have the needed circuits.
The two injector banks are 1,4,5,8 tan with orange stripe and 2,3,6,7 tan with red stripe. The individual injectors are wired as follows:
Injector #1 555 tan
Injector #2 556 tan with white
Injector #3 557 tan with yellow
Injector #4 558 tan with black
Injector #5 559 tan with light blue
Injector #6 560 tan with light green
Injector #7 561 tan with orange
Injector #8 562 tan with red
All are fed by a red wire, circuit #361, numbers after injectors are the Ford circuit numbers. There are two junction splices in the engine harness that you will have to undo, they are probably going to be next to impossible to undo without cutting. The easiest way would be to find an engine harness from a 94-96 302 automatic, it is set up for sequential injection form the factory.
One item you will run into if you change to a newer than 86 truck EEC, the EGR control system changed completely in 1987.
When I built my engine harness, I had some 302 stuff that came with the Bronco EEC and partial front harness and some stuff from a 4.6L engine. Between the two of them and a spare 460 engine harness, I was able to build one that would plug into the 92-96/7 style 42 pin connector by the power distribution box. I wired all the injectors to the appropriate pins for a 95 302 w/automatic, then built jumpers into the currently installed 1993 front harness to gang the injectors in their banks. To change the way they were ganged, was a plug and play item for me.
You might want to maybe add a jumper in the injector wiring with a pair 8 pin weatherproof plug/socket combinations that you can use to easily change injector ganging or go to sequential easily.
I hope I haven't confused you too much.
















