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Hi guys, I recently bought a 01 F350 with the 7.3. I have an 8in lift with 38's. I use the truck for towing, offroading, daily driving, and I want to take it to the track and run it along with my other toys. I just ordered Beans TS-6, i have 4in straight pipe all the way back, the 6637 intake. And Swamps aftermarket IDM. I want to be able to hit 13 second quater miles with the way the truck is set up with the 38s. I have the 4R100, with teh 5R110 roque convert and a shift kit. So here are my questions what else do you think I would need to do in order to hit what I am looking for and do you think my transmission will hold. The tranny is recently rebuilt. I was thinking 238cc injectors, upgraded HPOP, Turbo, and fuel pump/filter. Does that sound about right?
Is it a forged rod motor??
Yes, your mod list sounds about right, what turbo?? HPOP??
Also with 38" tires, you will want to re gear the differentials..
The Trans are the week link, at least, I would do a BTS or John Woods valve body,be prepared to get a trans from one of them..
What about gauges?? I would want,trans temp, Pyro,Fuel pressure,and boost
probably will want head studs if boost exceeds 40lbs..
13's in a lifted truck with 38" tires seems like a lofty (and expensive) goal.
Joey's engine build is probably a good guide. I would probably re-gear the axles and get the trans out of the way FIRST. It will SUCK to have your fully-built baby sitting in the driveway (or worse, on a roadtrip!) with a busted slushbox. There is no way I'd let a 'local shop' do a rebuild for this application - the BTS is just a good investment. Also, if ya drive it there - they install it for free.
I know a 4wd CC F250 that had 250/200's, SRP1 HPOP, and GTX4294 that was in the mid 12's on 35" tires. It was ~600hp based on weight and trap speed...
He posted yesterday he's already got 4:56 just didn't mention it this time
The first thing I would do is find out if you have forged connecting rods or PMRs. PMRs are good for around 450 rwhp give or take...
Second would be everything else lol keep in mind that once you get away from the stock injectors your going to have to have your tuner tuned for it. Factory injectors are split shots aftermarket are single shots
Is it a forged rod motor??
Yes, your mod list sounds about right, what turbo?? HPOP??
Also with 38" tires, you will want to re gear the differentials..
The Trans are the week link, at least, I would do a BTS or John Woods valve body,be prepared to get a trans from one of them..
What about gauges?? I would want,trans temp, Pyro,Fuel pressure,and boost
probably will want head studs if boost exceeds 40lbs..
Your set up is pretty much what I want Joey. I will get a tranny from BTS before I ever make a pass. I can't afford to blow up another tranny xD while on the way to work or drive back home towing the toys. I have every gauge except the pyro, that is one its way here, I am gonna install one on each side of the motor. I do needs rods, i was looking at ARP rods, not sure where I should buy them. I think 500-600 HP is what its going to take to get what I am looking for. So I guess the best place to start is studs, injectors, HPOP, turbo, re-tune my chip. DONT DRAG it or do anything hard core until i get my new tranny. Cause I literally just got this transmission in like 3 days ago. I will get the BTS valve body. (Or maybe go drag it and try to blow the tranny and give me an excuse to give the wife in buying another one
I do needs rods, i was looking at ARP rods, not sure where I should buy them.
Huh? And what?
Connecting rods or head studs... What are we talking about here??
You need to look to see if you have forged rods or not... I would doubt it but there's a slim chance but most likely you have PMRs and good luck holding 5-600 hp on them. Take a short couple of seconds and read all the post.... I'm not being a jerk but it will save a lot of headache later
Your set up is pretty much what I want Joey. I will get a tranny from BTS before I ever make a pass. I can't afford to blow up another tranny xD while on the way to work or drive back home towing the toys. I have every gauge except the pyro, that is one its way here, I am gonna install one on each side of the motor. I do needs rods, i was looking at ARP rods, not sure where I should buy them. I think 500-600 HP is what its going to take to get what I am looking for. So I guess the best place to start is studs, injectors, HPOP, turbo, re-tune my chip. DONT DRAG it or do anything hard core until i get my new tranny. Cause I literally just got this transmission in like 3 days ago. I will get the BTS valve body. (Or maybe go drag it and try to blow the tranny and give me an excuse to give the wife in buying anothee smane
smart move, I run one on each side.I lost a motor because of issues on passanger side, cooked 2 pistons..
I know its a lot, but you should look at traction/ladder bars..The higher the lift,the more axle wrap you have..
I know its a lot, but you should look at traction/ladder bars..The higher the lift,the more axle wrap you have..
I couldn't agree with you more Joey... It's a night and day difference since I built mine and put them on. My wife took the truck to work awhile ago called me and said something feels very different... A good different.
I had to remind her about them lol
Connecting rods or head studs... What are we talking about here??
You need to look to see if you have forged rods or not... I would doubt it but there's a slim chance but most likely you have PMRs and good luck holding 5-600 hp on them. Take a short couple of seconds and read all the post.... I'm not being a jerk but it will save a lot of headache later
smart move, I run one on each side.I lost a motor because of issues on passanger side, cooked 2 pistons..
I know its a lot, but you should look at traction/ladder bars..The higher the lift,the more axle wrap you have..
Okay now I have seen these before and heard of them but I am not sure at all what they would do for my truck. I have king off road racing shocks and full leaf springs in the front and rear and my truck barely moves an inch in the front and the back...haha what would the traction bars do? Just hold the axles so I dont twist them?
smart move, I run one on each side.I lost a motor because of issues on passanger side, cooked 2 pistons..
I know its a lot, but you should look at traction/ladder bars..The higher the lift,the more axle wrap you have..
I know this is a tad off topic, but i figured I would ask while we are talking about mods. I was wondering what my boost should be hitting at like pulling off a stop like or driving at like 45 MPG? Cause i can go from a stop at like 45% throttle and no boost will show. But if i stomp on it i hit roughly 18. on the freeway at like 70/75 i am around 4-7 depending on the grade. Also i have an Edge CTS Monitor hooked to the OBDII sensor tell me my boost. I am gonna get a pillar gauge for it today cause I think it will be more accurate. (im gonna tap into the map) Im using my Edge monitor for Tranny, EGT, IPC, EOT.
I made a boost leak gauge yesterday, so I am going to test it and see if I have a leak. I will also check if I have any codes.
I know this is a tad off topic, but i figured I would ask while we are talking about mods. I was wondering what my boost should be hitting at like pulling off a stop like or driving at like 45 MPG? Cause i can go from a stop at like 45% throttle and no boost will show. But if i stomp on it i hit roughly 18. on the freeway at like 70/75 i am around 4-7 depending on the grade. Also i have an Edge CTS Monitor hooked to the OBDII sensor tell me my boost. I am gonna get a pillar gauge for it today cause I think it will be more accurate. (im gonna tap into the map) Im using my Edge monitor for Tranny, EGT, IPC, EOT.
I made a boost leak gauge yesterday, so I am going to test it and see if I have a leak. I will also check if I have any codes.
your boost sounds about right for a stock set up..
The traction/ladder bars will stop axle wrap and stop tire hop (when spinning) here is a video..
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