idea
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 3,533
Likes: 17
From: SW Florida
Uh, just leave the transfer case bolted to the trans and drop the entire thing.
Pulling an engine ain't hard, but it's definitely way more work than dropping a tranny. Especially for a simple maintenance item like a clutch.
Pulling an engine ain't hard, but it's definitely way more work than dropping a tranny. Especially for a simple maintenance item like a clutch.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 6,335
Likes: 6
From: Midwest
Never done a clutch on an f150 before,but you might be able to just leave the tranny/transfer case on the jack,slide it back far enough to replace the clutch,then push it forward and bolt it back up without even taking it out from under the truck. I have done it this way on other vehicles.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,408
Likes: 5
From: Parkesburg PA
Drop the trans.
Now if you have leaky gaskets and want to clean, regasket and paint the motor along with cleaning the cradle and engine compartment... Pull the motor. It's not that much harder.
Now if you have leaky gaskets and want to clean, regasket and paint the motor along with cleaning the cradle and engine compartment... Pull the motor. It's not that much harder.
Elder User - What???
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 714
Likes: 1
From: Moore, OK
Not to mention the difficulties stabbing the transmission input shaft into the flywheel on the engine, you would have to drain your cooling system, disconnect your exhaust, wiring harness, and all sorts of other things. Disconnecting your drive shafts and shift levers is a whole lot easier.
Use a transmission jack, leave your transmission and transfer case bolted together, and simply leave the transmission and t-case chained to your transmission jack and roll it back out of the way. You should remove your flywheel to have it surfaced, and replace your rear main oil seal when you are in there. If you have the Mazda 5 speed, you should think about replacing your concentric slave cylinder as well since you have to pull your transmission to replace them. Many clutch kits will come with a new pilot bushing (or bearing) so you'll need to R&R your old one. If you have a pilot bushing, just put a light coat of engine oil on the bushing as grease can clog up the pores (bushings are oil impregnated and grease can prevent the bushing from self-lubricating). If you have a pilot bearing, you'll need to put a little high temperature grease in the bearing after you install it. Also, you will need to clean both the flywheel and pressure plate disc with brake cleaner to remove any machining or rust protection oils/coatings before putting everything back together. You'll also need to apply a light coating of high temperature grease the input splines of your transmission - I would apply some grease, stab your transmission, pull it back away, and wipe any excess grease off the input shaft and clutch hub (just not off of the splines) and make sure no grease can fly off or drip on your clutch linings or mating surfaces.
Clutches aren't hard to replace, but they can be a PITA if you've never done one. There are plenty of videos floating around the internet that will help you out and I suggest you watch them. However, if you have a friend or family member who has replaced a clutch before, having them by your side to help you would be even better.
Use a transmission jack, leave your transmission and transfer case bolted together, and simply leave the transmission and t-case chained to your transmission jack and roll it back out of the way. You should remove your flywheel to have it surfaced, and replace your rear main oil seal when you are in there. If you have the Mazda 5 speed, you should think about replacing your concentric slave cylinder as well since you have to pull your transmission to replace them. Many clutch kits will come with a new pilot bushing (or bearing) so you'll need to R&R your old one. If you have a pilot bushing, just put a light coat of engine oil on the bushing as grease can clog up the pores (bushings are oil impregnated and grease can prevent the bushing from self-lubricating). If you have a pilot bearing, you'll need to put a little high temperature grease in the bearing after you install it. Also, you will need to clean both the flywheel and pressure plate disc with brake cleaner to remove any machining or rust protection oils/coatings before putting everything back together. You'll also need to apply a light coating of high temperature grease the input splines of your transmission - I would apply some grease, stab your transmission, pull it back away, and wipe any excess grease off the input shaft and clutch hub (just not off of the splines) and make sure no grease can fly off or drip on your clutch linings or mating surfaces.
Clutches aren't hard to replace, but they can be a PITA if you've never done one. There are plenty of videos floating around the internet that will help you out and I suggest you watch them. However, if you have a friend or family member who has replaced a clutch before, having them by your side to help you would be even better.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
Likes: 76
From: Gilbert, PA
PULL the T-case. it is 6 bolts and one linkage. it will also take 100-150 lbs off of the total weight and no make it so awkward to handle
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2022
Posts: 226
Likes: 83
From: South East Kansas
Yup.. Pull the T-case off. Break the job down into as small a pieces as you can.
Cant say specifically on your job, as I have not done one like yours. I would think that if all parts are factory, then they should break down and come apart with out having to cut out the cross member.
Regarding your parts needs. You might try these guys, as that is where I get my parts at, and they have not failed me yet.
Lots of luck with your project.
https://blumenthalmfg.com/
Light Duty Manual Transmissions, Transfer Cases, Clutches & Differentials
301 S. Western Ave.
Oklahoma City, OK 73109
(405) 232-9557 or (800) 262-9557
(405) 236-4014 FAXMedium & Heavy Duty Manuals, Automatics, Torque Converters & Engines
Cant say specifically on your job, as I have not done one like yours. I would think that if all parts are factory, then they should break down and come apart with out having to cut out the cross member.
Regarding your parts needs. You might try these guys, as that is where I get my parts at, and they have not failed me yet.
Lots of luck with your project.
https://blumenthalmfg.com/
Light Duty Manual Transmissions, Transfer Cases, Clutches & Differentials
301 S. Western Ave.
Oklahoma City, OK 73109
(405) 232-9557 or (800) 262-9557
(405) 236-4014 FAX
Medium & Heavy Duty Manuals, Automatics, Torque Converters & Engines
504 S.W. 4th
Oklahoma City, OK 73109
(405) 236-4800 or (888) 236-4800
(405) 272-9744 FAX
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