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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 11:14 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by 1badcj8
Thought I'd give a follow up...

I bought a type 6G large case 135amp Alternator and had it installed by a co-worker with that also has a shop. He tested my old one as well and came up with basically the same reading that I got only he got 5.7 volts so yes you can get a reading that low, I knew I was not doing it wrong...

Any way, he also checked everything else we have discussed here and all was good. After installing the Alt everything is working great and it runs all electronics perfect. For my own piece of mind I put my volt meter on it when I got home and it reads 14.4 testing it exactly how I did before.

All is good again in Super Duty town...lol


I just ordered a 140amp from the same folks. Should be here soon. Glad to hear your happy, hopefully I will be too.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 11:20 AM
  #32  
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Yeah sometimes maybe it's better to be lucky than smart -- we ordered ours with the 140A optional alternator too (for charging trailer/camper batts).

I wonder how many folks with the high output Alternators have suffered FICM failures....? Or maybe it can help avoid a failure...
 
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 11:35 AM
  #33  
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I am hoping that my 140 is why I still have the original FICM, I picked up the blue spring too. I watch my voltages and make sure I don't mess up FICM ect by replacing batteries when needed. Only on the second set.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 12:35 PM
  #34  
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Ditto here on the blue spring -- just trying to figure which one and where to buy it. I'm not even going to bother checking fuel pressure...

We were still on original batts last year and noticed slower cold starts -- don't know how many of those it takes to hurt injectors/FICM I checked and one batt was low and charged them both up and then replaced them in the next couple of weeks. My guess is we started it half dozen to 10 times with not fully charged batts. I guess we'll just see....
 
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 02:14 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by mhoefer
depending on what I can afford.
That is exactly what I went for, what I could afford. I spent a fair amount of time looking, browsing and searching online before I found those folks. I wanted a good one at a good price that wasn't from off shore and I feel like I found it. Yes there were more "popular" ones but for any where from a bit more to a hell of a bunch more. I figured if it lasted its whole life until now with a stock 110er that the 135 would do it well and so far its doing great.

Originally Posted by diesel_dan
My guess is we started it half dozen to 10 times with not fully charged batts. I guess we'll just see....
I started mine with low battery's and a rapidly declining Alt for a couple months and it didn't seem to damage any thing else. Like stated some times its better to be lucky but I don't think luck had anything to do with it, it simply didn't effect anything else. One thing that is much better now that I had no idea was effected by the Alt was using cruise up hill it just did not like it and would skip and cut out a little. NOW with the Alt and new battery's it works just like it should and never hesitates even on these mountain passes. I would have never in a million years thought that a bad Alt and/or low battery's would effect the cruise control but it clearly did.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 02:53 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by 1badcj8

I started mine with low battery's and a rapidly declining Alt for a couple months and it didn't seem to damage any thing else. Like stated some times its better to be lucky but I don't think luck had anything to do with it, it simply didn't effect anything else. One thing that is much better now that I had no idea was effected by the Alt was using cruise up hill it just did not like it and would skip and cut out a little. NOW with the Alt and new battery's it works just like it should and never hesitates even on these mountain passes. I would have never in a million years thought that a bad Alt and/or low battery's would effect the cruise control but it clearly did.
Thanks for sharing that -- it makes me feel more comfortable. It's funny how you can darn near make yourself paranoid if you read too many threads on problems...

What is great now that the 6.0 has been out long enough is that rather than guessing about root causes to problems, this community (as well as others) has such a wealth of knowledgeable folks that it's turned into very straight forward solutions to prevent problems in the first place!

Gotta' love FTE...
 
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 07:34 PM
  #37  
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I seriously doubt you are doing damage I have had to start mine 100s of times in really cold weather with no block heater, like -40 C. I think the one time it does damage is the last one. I have had to charge from another vehicle to get it to turn over even, and killed the batts.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 08:08 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by mhoefer
I seriously doubt you are doing damage I have had to start mine 100s of times in really cold weather with no block heater,
I've had the same experience with my 7.3 Stroke. Up at the mine it would sit over night in a blizzard and start. When most things are gone, it will be gone. The Alt on the other hand truly seemed to get worse over time, about 5 months from starting to see the batt light go on and off to complete failure.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 08:09 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by diesel_dan
Gotta' love FTE...
Totally!!!
 
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 12:44 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by diesel_dan

I wonder how many folks with the high output Alternators have suffered FICM failures....?..
.


Alot less then those with OEM Alternators

It dont work like you are thinking here as in Too Much Power that would burn electronics up

You can think of AMPS rating as how Efficant it is

When you get right down to it the OEM 110 amp is way underpowered when you add up system Demand VS system Output

So underpowered that it has a Hard time getting the Batterys to charge to 100% if you have many add-ons Like an Aftermarket stereo system some of these take 60amps +or- Alone

So looking at it when you start the truck Cold it draws 200-225amps and trickles down to around 60-80 amps after

so you can see with Normal amp Load (60-80amp) plus a stereo cranking (around 60amp +or-) the stock alt is MAXED out and then some. This is hard on ALL electronics especialy the FICM


Originally Posted by diesel_dan

Or maybe it can help avoid a failure...

BINGO^^^^!!!!
 
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 01:01 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by BLADE35
Alot less then those with OEM Alternators

It dont work like you are thinking here as in Too Much Power that would burn electronics up

You can think of AMPS rating as how Efficant it is

When you get right down to it the OEM 110 amp is way underpowered when you add up system Demand VS system Output

So underpowered that it has a Hard time getting the Batterys to charge to 100% if you have many add-ons Like an Aftermarket stereo system some of these take 60amps +or- Alone

So looking at it when you start the truck Cold it draws 200-225amps and trickles down to around 60-80 amps after

so you can see with Normal amp Load (60-80amp) plus a stereo cranking (around 60amp +or-) the stock alt is MAXED out and then some. This is hard on ALL electronics especialy the FICM





BINGO^^^^!!!!
Which is the real head scratcher... Sure the 6.0 was rushed to delivery, but you would think Ford would have caught on by the 2004MY that a higher output alternator was needed.

Josh
 
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 01:51 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Bullitt390
Which is the real head scratcher... Sure the 6.0 was rushed to delivery, but you would think Ford would have caught on by the 2004MY that a higher output alternator was needed.

Josh
I agree... Why keep putting an underachieving Alt in your flagship vehicle? I guess the same reason for putting the weak head bolts in them but hey no one can make money after if they make'em all bullet proof .
 
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 01:56 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by 1badcj8
I agree... Why keep putting an underachieving Alt in your flagship vehicle? I guess the same reason for putting the weak head bolts in them but hey no one can make money after if they make'em all bullet proof .
Headbolts are/were adequate... They were just last in the chain reaction of events... And also the most costly to repair.


Josh
 
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 02:07 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Bullitt390
Headbolts are/were adequate...

Josh
Right adequate being the key word there, perhaps "non-issue" would have been better. I have not upgraded mine as I really do not plan at this point to up program my ride, it does awesome just how it is and I just want it to last a long time (of course not that they cant if you up them a little). Reliability is what I want in a truck and my last Super Duty (my first Ford) was the best truck I've had in 35 years of having trucks, I hope this one is as reliable.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 11:57 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Bullitt390
Which is the real head scratcher... Sure the 6.0 was rushed to delivery, but you would think Ford would have caught on by the 2004MY that a higher output alternator was needed.

Josh
FWIW: I helped a friend order an '08 and the 140A was the std Alternator by then....
 
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