So, I'm rebuilding my engine after a head gasket blew and I'm trying to run my vacuums and hoses correctly this time around.

Below is a diagram of all the lines I have and in red I have the lines that I BELIEVE to be correct.

I know part of my problem is that I am not running stock on some parts. For example, I have a full open air cleaner instead of a stock one. I have an motorcraft 2150 carb with a stove choke. I have headers instead of exhaust manifolds.

Any help or advice would be appreciated!

 

Looks good to me. The vacuum line that attaches to the choke stove (I think you're drawing this as BROWN) is not actually a vacuum line, it's a fresh air line that connects to the underside of the air horn.

The small port on the bottom right of the carburetor (right above the text "carb + spacer") goes to a PVS; the other side of the PVS goes to the EGR valve.

Not sure what the 2 unused ports on the spacer are for. Usually the PCV valve goes to the back of the carburetor in the center, but I have seen it attached to the spacer, so that must be what you have.

The carbon canister should also run to the fuel bowl vent, and there's a purge valve that's sourced by ported vacuum. I think it most often shares the connection with the port that sources the PVS + EGR valve.

 

On '73s the charcoal canister has one 5/16" line that goes back to the fuel tank. The second line is a 3/4" line that goes directly to the side of the air filter housing. It doesn't go through a valve.
In the center of the charcoal canister is another "nipple" this is a breather and should have a cap on it. However, quite often the cap is missing and it's mistaken for another hose nipple.
The 3/4" line is available from NAPA (P/N BK825-4025). It's a corrugated aluminum tube that's 3' long. The original air filter housing had a nipple on the side of it that the hose connected to.

 

Whoops, I didn't see the year.

 

I'm assuming (I know, that's dangerous) that the OP is talking about the truck in his avatar.

 

yes, truck in my avatar! Thanks for the help guys.

Your replys do lead me to a few questions:

1) I forgot to mention in my diagram that 'dark red' lines were strictly arrows/pointers to decipher my picture So the port on the bottom right of the carb doesn't exist on my carb, is there another one that I should run to the PVS?

2) Where is the PVS?

3) What is ERG and where can I find it? Everything in my diagram is all I know of.

4) On the charcoal canister what do I do with that 3/4" line if I do not have a stock air filter housing. Can I plug into an aftermarket one like this one here:



5) Where does my fuel bowl vent go then?

 

Another questions... if I hook up the choke stove to the fresh air line that connects to the underside of the air horn, will the choke still operate correctly and open up? Would it be easier to get an electric choke?

 

So you're saying the line that says "carb + spacer" was not indicitave of an actual port, just an arrow explaining what the item is? That sure is confusing. If this is the '73 in your avatar, then maybe the truck does not have EGR in the first place, and there would be no port. Mike or ND can confirm when EGR came into trucks.

A ported vacuum switch (PVS) is typically installed in a coolant path (intake manifold on wet-intake engines, thermostat housing, etc), but if this motor never had EGR, then you won't have a PVS. See above.

EGR = exhaust gas recirculation; it's an emissions system used to circulate inert exhaust gas back to the combustion stream to cool the mix and decrease NOx emissions. You may not have EGR, see above.

Ideally you would want to route the outlet of the canister back into the air cleaner; some aftermarket air cleaners (including the one you posted) have an optional provision for this. Some people do away with this system entirely because it's difficult to fit into an aftermarket setup.

I was under the impression that you did not have this bowl vent unless the charcoal canister also had an inlet for it. Earlier carburetors that didn't vent the bowl to the canister just relied on the two vent towers near the throat of the carburetor, and there was no outlet on the front of the carburetor. Mike may be able to answer better.

The fresh-air line alone is not responsible for heating the choke up; this is done on the other side of the stove. The fresh-air line just allows air to be drawn in, which is then heated up and circulated over the choke coil. The fresh air line goes under the air horn so that air taken in by it is filtered by the air cleaner; this is important because this air is heated up and drawn back into the intake stream using manifold vacuum.

I'm not sure that I'm clear on what you're asking to do. The choke stove is basically a loop of metal line, one side connects to the fresh air inlet on the bottom of the air horn; the other side connects to the threaded inlet on the choke housing. In between, the line makes a loop in an exhaust crossover in the intake manifold. A vacuum passage inside the choke housing pulls fresh air in through the inlet; the air goes through the pipe and gets heated up on its way to the choke.

 

The diagram is confusing. I forgot to put on there too that the black lines were the vacuum ports. I will update the image and repost it for anybody's future reference.

The lack of EGR would sure explain a lot. I think the motorcraft 2150 carb I have was pulled off a '75 so I may have extra ports because of that too.

I will investigate my aftermarket air cleaner and see what my options are ... I didn't know it was even possible.

Oh I didn't now thats how it worked. Your first comment makes sense now!

Thanks for the help and explaining how this stuff works.

 

When I got my 73 with the 360 engine it had a EGR ,but was capped off. The rest of the emission stuff was removed or capped off. I never fixed any of it just got rid of the engine and started all over.

 

OK I'll check for an ERG... where would it be located?

 

Under the carb. on mine was a spacer plate with it on the back side.

 

There is a kit that you can buy to adapt to the side of the header for your stove heater, only the 351m/400 had ports in the intake crossover, 360/390, 302 all had the tubes running to your right side exhaust manifold, you could just take some small metal tubing and wrap it neatly around your header pipe, then route it up to your choke one one end and up to your air horn on the other, it worked out pretty nicely on mine

 

OK, I guess I don't have an ERG on my truck. Good to know

ford_pickup, are you talking about a kit like this one here? Dorman Products 55111 Dorman Choke Stove and Heater Tube Kit

 

that is exactly what I was talking about, you use the hose clamp and clamp the piece of metal (the stove) to the side of the header, you really could just use a peice of small metal brake line and wrap it neatly around the header a few time, either way would do all you need to do is warm the air that is being drawn through the tubing in relation to the level of heat the engine is producing as it warms up slowly and that will slowly open the choke