Van: 2001 e-150 cargo with no factory door locks. I am installing an alarm system with aftermarket door lock actuators.

Does anyone know if the 2 actuator wires are in the harness to all doors, even though the van did not come with factory locks?

Where do I get the male/female contactor for the sliding door? (sorry, I dont know what else to call it) Right now, there are rubber boots covering both holes on door and jamb. Thank You.

 

Sliding Door Switches....

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of course you might not need a thousand but this would give you an idea of what you can "name" it and what the wiring diagram would indicate the min amount of amperes the switch would call for in the system.

 

Your diagram should show where the connection would be in relation to the alarm switch that triggers the system. Try to keep it simple and it won't be hard to put it all together.

 

I did this on my 95 cargo. Search for "sliding door contact switch" don't recall where I bought mine. Mine are installed next to those rubber covers towards the inside of the van. I wired everything directly to the alarm no factory wiring.

Hardest part is installing the actuators inside the doors, I drilled holes as needed to tighten the door lock rods to the the actuator rods through the door.You have to bend the actuator rods as needed so the locks work smoothly. I have had one actuator go bad but it's a cheap and fairly easy replacement once you get them in properly.

 

I did this on my 95 cargo. Search for "sliding door contact switch" don't recall where I bought mine

Did you have to do anything tricky to get the contact to fit? I have found several online but they dont give size.

 

My skiding door switch looks similar to this:Van Sliding Door Switch

 

Here's one on ebay, not sure it will fit:
van sliding door contact switch | eBay

 

Any switch of that type should fit as long as it makes contact with the other half. I think I used an existing hole in the door for the half without the pins. On the pillar I cutout part of the rubber cover to make room for the switch with the pins. Installing them next to the rubber covers made it simple to wire, you just pull them off for access.

 

Not really, the pins are spring loaded so as long as they are not too far apart or too close they will work. Those on Ebay should be fine. You just need to line the other side up properly once you get one side installed. The only other issue I've had is the little screws on the door side work loose but never fall out probably just need to put some silicone on them it's probably from shutting the door.

 

Thanks. I found the 4 pin connector in the door jamb so I will try the ebay contact. I found the harness has the 2 actuator wires in the front doors but for some reason the rear door has no actuator wires that I can find. Fortunately it's an easy route for new wire from the side door contact to the rear.

The Viper alarm has 2 channel remotes so I am wiring a relay just for the drivers door and will assign the other channel to the rest of the doors. That way, I figure these aftermarket actuators will have better life. Being an HVAC contractor on busy days this system will get worked alot.

Thanks again.

 

I'm a remodeling contractor so they do get a lot of work daily. After the first actuator went bad I bought extras. Only one went bad since 2009 and I have no clue why I didn't install these a long time ago.

I have mine setup to lock and unlock all and lock when I start driving. I rarely just use the driver's door and rarely leave it unarmed or unlocked...peace of mind.

 

This is what I did, your mileage may vary!

Bought an '00 E250 without PDL's or PW's, had a '97 that did have them. The '00's door wiring harnesses had only speaker wires. I swapped out the front door panels, window regulators, lock solenoids, complete door wiring harness all the way to the factory connector terminations just behind the lower front kick panels. These were disconnected, leaving the chassis wiring connectors in place ('97)

Went to the U-Pull yard, found a donor van (anything after '92 works) and stripped it clean of its rear door wiring harnesses all the way to their factory connector terminations, taking the chassis wiring connector end with about 12" of pigtail. Also removed factory lock solenoids and the rubber boots from door shell to body.

Using a factory EVTM (schematics) spliced connecting wires from the door wiring harnesses to their respective connection points---pretty easy for the most part, electrically speaking anyway.

Once all connections were installed and working properly I installed an Omega Crime Guard 350i5 alarm system (Crutchfield $50!)

I'm a bit **** on my wiring stuff but the key for me was finding and using the factory type door wiring harnesses and connectors believe it or not several of the donor PDL solenoids are still working! My way allows a quick swap of any typical Ford switch or solenoid easily without having to rely on an aftermarket supplier closing up shop or their parts no longer available.

Adding factory PDL's is easy enough on a cargo van---easy access to everything!