Posted last month about some issues I was havin, I was told CPS and replaced it, truck ran great since then and began giving me problems yesterday. I just did an oil change this evening and went to drive it around after the oil change, before the oil change it would cut out on me. After the oil change it ran better than it ever did. It didn't give me a problem for a good 15 miles and then it decided to cut off on me while driving and will not crank, turns over but will not start, checked all harnesses and sensors for moisture and none were even damp any ideas? All is appreciated
Thanks

 

Check to make sure you haven't lost any fluid. If these engines lose enough oil pressure then they won't run. Also, check to make sure you have the 42 pin connector on top of the engine on driver's side tightened up all the way.

Drake

 

Where exactly is that 42 pin connector? I checked all my fluids after the oil change and all looked good, ill check the connector when I get off this evenin and let y'all know.
Thanks

 

Take a look at the top of the drivers side valve cover. You will see the connector going right over the top of it. single bolt in the middle holding it in place. Also check that none of the wires are rubbing through against the valve cover and shorting out.

 

where did you get the CPS?? It may still be the problem...

 

Got the CPS from a shop that sells "genuine ford parts" because they were cheaper than the dealership, by 3 bucks, but is exactly the same part. (My buddy works at the dealership, and told me if they run out of something that is where they get it from) and he verified when I showed him the part/box thy it was the ford part, and not some other brand b/c I was told other brand CPS's for the 7.3 aren't very good

 

So if the 52 pin harness ain't the problem do y'all have anymore ideas for me on what else may be the problem?

 

I take it you are not getting an SES light and it it shutting off like the key was turned off, or is it stumbling?

I would inspect the wiring near the 42 pin connector, over the DS valve cover and near the front lift hook on the DS head for chaffing. There is also a spot that can rub near the DS front shock tower.

I would inspect the wiring for the CPS and ensure that the seal and connector look well too.

I would inspect the IPR to ensure the "tin" nut is on the end of it, and that the connector to the coil and wiring is secure.

When it dies, have you ever checked the level of the HPOP, before trying to restart?

Aside from that, it may require some data logging to hopefully catch it when it acts up.

 

Usually it'll start actin up and cuttin out. Last night is the first night it cut off completely. It did not give me any warning, but just cut off on me, now it won't restart for me, I tried unplugging the ebp sensor b/c I read somewhere else that could be a problem but nothing changed.
Again, I'm open to all advice, unfortunately I can't go check on what is/is not working to fix it until after 6.
Thanks again

 

Checked all the harnesses and all that and nothin looked messed up or was loose. Sat and cranked it for a bit after putting it on jumper cables b/c it sounded semi-dead, it cranked up after a few times of trying it and again ran great for a couple miles then with no warning just shut off again, blowing a bit of white smoke, but normally only at idle then it stopped. After it cut off again it wouldn't start back up

 

So since last time I've checked all wlectrical connections and trouble areas y'all have brought to my attention, they all look great from what I can see, no chaffing or shorts anywhere that I discovered. I got the truck running and it was puffing white smoke at idle but once warm there was no, or hardly any smoke. Once started and drove for about 15 minutes the truck, with no warning cut off on me rolling down the road. I got the truck running enough to get it to someone with a computer and pulled all saved history and found out aside from the CPS code I was getting an ICP code, I replaced the ICP and it ran better while it was running. Once warm, (about 15 minutes of drivin again it began to act up, but not cutting off). Today since I kept getting a CPS code I went by ford to get a new one to make sure I didn't put a bad one back in. After installing the new CPS this Mornin it runs 10 times better and has not cut off but at running temp it still stutters, I got another SES light and took it back to the reader, now it's giving me a EOT sensor code. Does this sound like a possible issue? Or just another non related issue?

 

I dont know if you have done this yet or not. Not even sure it would cause your issue.
EBPV Tube.
If it is completely clogged or sucking air through a bad spot that may have rusted. For that matter the EBPV sensor itself.
I know that cleaning the tube and the senor have helped with smoothness and mileage but no sure if they would cause the stuttering effect once warmed up.

Hopefully someone can chime in on that.

 

Where is the ebpv tube? I'm sure it needs to be cleaned either way.

 

Tough for me to explain but here is Guzzle's page on the procedure with pics and parts if any are needed.

Welcome to guzzle's Exhaust Backpressure Sensor Cleaning Maintenance Web Page


Click on the pics for details on wrench sizes etc.

 

I found it before I came back an looked at this but I'm gonna check out that page, my ebpv tube is completely rusted through and has broken right under the ebps