radius arm insulator replacement

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May 28, 2003 | 04:45 PM

Green Streak

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Joined: Dec 2002

Posts: 373

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From: Wallaceburg On.

radius arm insulator replacement

The insulators at tha rear of my radius arms are disintigrating. The
Haynes manual advised to temove the springs atc are remove the arms from the front. I got under and looked at them and my question is; Why can I not disconnect the rear bracket and remove the rear nut installing the rubber from the rear, Has anyone tried this seems like a lot laess aggravation
Thanks in advance.

79 f100 Getting meaner and greener

May 28, 2003 | 06:03 PM

sparky

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Joined: Jun 1999

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From: Comox Valley, Canada

radius arm insulator replacement

I replaced mine using a method similair to what you are planning. I removed the radius arm retaining nuts both side, removed the shocks, disconnected the axles at their pivot points, dropped the axles down and then pushed them forward enough to get the radius arms out of their brackets. replaced the bushings and put it all back together.
Hardest part was getting the rusted cotter pins out of the nuts

May 29, 2003 | 01:34 AM

Torque1st

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Joined: Sep 2001

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radius arm insulator replacement

Just remember to pull your brake calipers and hang them with wire so you do not stress the brake lines.

May 29, 2003 | 05:48 AM

theonlybull

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Joined: Aug 2002

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From: clementsport canada

radius arm insulator replacement

last time i did mine, i cheated, place a jack under the frame behind the radius bracket. then i unbolted the rod, and used my legs to push that wheel forward, a friend swapped the bushings then i let it back into the bracket. i think i had a jack under the radius arm too, just to keep it lined up with the bracket.

May 29, 2003 | 08:37 AM

KJKozak2

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Joined: Feb 2002

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From: Cleveland, WI USA

radius arm insulator replacement

I did mine on my 79 with car ramps. I jacked the front up and placed the ramp backwards under the wheel. I removed the nut and lowered the wheel onto the ramp which caused the axle to move forward.

It worked fine, but I think it would be easier to remove the one little bolt holding the top of the coil spring on, and possibly the top shock nut.

It shouldn't take more than 20-30 minutes for both sides (if you can get the nut off, that is).

Kevin K.

May 29, 2003 | 10:41 AM

neverenough

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Joined: May 2003

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radius arm insulator replacement

The books will tell you the "proper" way to do things, but, there are many ways to "cheat".
Yes, you can just remove the pivot bracket from the radius arm and frame. Take off the retaining nut for the radius arm. If the radius arm pivot bracket is riveted on, carefully remove the rivets without damaging the holes (it's quick and easy with a grinder,drift, and hammer). Replace the bushings and reinstall. Use grade 8 bolts that are long enough so there are no threads where the rivet was and make sure they are as close to the size of the hole as possible. I drilled the holes a little bigger to get a tight fit. I've done it to a 1/2 ton and 2 one tons with no problems. I recommend replacing the I-beam pivot bushings too. It's not hard to get to them. Sometimes they can be a PITA to get out of the I-beam though. To get them out, drill out the rubber in the middle, knock the center out, pry inwards on the metal where the two flats are and drive it out with a hammer and drift. Remove any burrs and intall the new ones. Good luck.

May 29, 2003 | 01:58 PM

73Custom

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Joined: Apr 2000

Posts: 2,838

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From: SD

radius arm insulator replacement

How ever you decide to do it, I would recommend using polyurethane bushings. They are the same price as rubber but ride better and last longer.

I would also recommend replacing the axle pivot bushings. They get the same amount of wear as the radius bushings so they are worn out too. I'd also use poly bushings for the axle pivots. Rubber bushings have a metal sleeve that has to be pressed out and new one pressed in - poly bushings reuse the old sleeve - lots easier. Pull the old rubber out and slide the new poly in...

Marty