clutch switch for start
Thread Starter
|
Cross-Country
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 72
Likes: 8
clutch switch for start
'93 7.3 IDI 4x4 manual 5 sp F350
the switch that is "made" when you push in the clutch in order to start is not making contact (today) -- 1) where is it? 2)can it be adjusted? 3) could there be a circuit breaker for this switch? 4) any ideas on what it costs to replace?
Truck started/ran fine day before yesterday. Today, tried to start but switch connection went bad during 1st attempt (23 deg F) and have been unable to re-engage (multiple stomps on the clutch).
Thanks in advance.........
the switch that is "made" when you push in the clutch in order to start is not making contact (today) -- 1) where is it? 2)can it be adjusted? 3) could there be a circuit breaker for this switch? 4) any ideas on what it costs to replace?
Truck started/ran fine day before yesterday. Today, tried to start but switch connection went bad during 1st attempt (23 deg F) and have been unable to re-engage (multiple stomps on the clutch).
Thanks in advance.........
Tuned
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 343
Likes: 30
From: Maryville, TN
Clutch switch is on the clutch rod right where it heads out the firewall. There should be a 4 wire flat plug attached to it, 2 wires for starting and 2 wires for cruise control. The switch itself, has a clip on it that allows it to be removed in two pieces.
To get it going temporarily if your stuck, you can jumper the two start wires (don't know the colors, trial and error should get you there). Just be sure your in neutral or clutch depressed before attempting to start.
To get it going temporarily if your stuck, you can jumper the two start wires (don't know the colors, trial and error should get you there). Just be sure your in neutral or clutch depressed before attempting to start.
Thread Starter
|
Cross-Country
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 72
Likes: 8
IVERGERRRRRRR --- you da man!!!!!!!!!!!!!
jumpered the two wires that are red w/blue stripes ........... she's warming up as I write......
Thanks again for your time and your help! The beer's on me........
========================================
1-25-13 edit:
left the other 2 wires alone on the switch (w/green color) -- cruise control still works as normal....
jumpered the two wires that are red w/blue stripes ........... she's warming up as I write......
Thanks again for your time and your help! The beer's on me........
========================================
1-25-13 edit:
left the other 2 wires alone on the switch (w/green color) -- cruise control still works as normal....
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 6,938
Likes: 13
One of my first "mods" to any manual pickup. A: theyre a pain B: never know when you might need to crank yourself forward or backward a few feet. Rare but its come in handy. IE: running out of fuel in an intersection... lol
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 3,602
Likes: 132
From: Centerville TN
Might check the bushing on the lever. Mine kept jumping off, put a small hose clamp on it to get it going, bad idea. Out of sight, out of mind. Forgot about it, didn't realize that the lever itself was getting grooved until my truck wouldn't start. The bushing is MUCH easier and MUCH cheaper to replace. Keep an extra in my truck always.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,665
Likes: 4
From: Terre Haute, IN
Bushing doesn't affect the clutch safety switch. I put a 10 amp fuse between the two terminals in the switch. Didn't require any mods at all and if i ever wanted i can just plug it right back in.
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 426
Likes: 0
From: Topeka,Ks.
Good idea. I never even thought of using a blade fuse. I'm so used to making them with wires and spade connectors. I see in your sig. You have onboard air. What type of a setup are you using?
Trending Topics
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,665
Likes: 4
From: Terre Haute, IN
Put a York 210 where the factory a/c used to be. I use a hydraulic hose for a leader, have a 5gal wet tank under the drivers door and another 11gal tank where the rear fuel tank would be. The switch to control the clutch is a regular air compressor switch with an unloader, so when the compressor kicks on it doesn't start loaded (more like a soft start). Theres a check valve on the inlet of the first tank that makes that possible.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 3,602
Likes: 132
From: Centerville TN
Bushing doesn't effect the clutch switch, but if the bushing wears and the lever grooves, the clutch switch will not engage.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 8,476
Likes: 37
From: Madison, WI
^^^^^ +1; either the lever gets a groove or the eyelet eggs out; either way it fails to move the pushrod far enough to trip the switch. Which of course means the _real_ problem is your clutch may not be fully disengaging.
Forget the plastic bushing. I had one fail within ONE WEEK. If the lever isn't ground down and the eyelet isn't egged out, cut a little piece of 1/2"OD x 7/16"ID brass tubing for the bushing. Then secure the end of the lever with a 7/16" drill stop collar to keep it in place.
If either the lever or the eyelet is worn, however, the best fix is the heim joint, which requires cutting off the eyelet.
I've used that trick of cranking the starter to move the car a couple times with passenger cars. Not doing it with a 6000-lb truck, though. I figure I'll jumper it on the spot if I really need that capability someday.
To use a fuse as a jumper you have to unplug the whole thing, which means you lose cruise, right?
Forget the plastic bushing. I had one fail within ONE WEEK. If the lever isn't ground down and the eyelet isn't egged out, cut a little piece of 1/2"OD x 7/16"ID brass tubing for the bushing. Then secure the end of the lever with a 7/16" drill stop collar to keep it in place.
If either the lever or the eyelet is worn, however, the best fix is the heim joint, which requires cutting off the eyelet.
I've used that trick of cranking the starter to move the car a couple times with passenger cars. Not doing it with a 6000-lb truck, though. I figure I'll jumper it on the spot if I really need that capability someday.
To use a fuse as a jumper you have to unplug the whole thing, which means you lose cruise, right?
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,665
Likes: 4
From: Terre Haute, IN
Maybe the OBS trucks are different. I made that statement based on my slantnose truck. On mine the switch is fastened to the dash and theres a little plunger that gets pulled by the pedal, not the clutch master rod.
Just for our own gerneration of trucks...lol
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
bagman1995
1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
5
Apr 5, 2019 02:25 PM
Jesse Arthur
1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
1
Jun 4, 2015 02:31 PM
JonHRhodes
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
6
Oct 13, 2001 10:24 AM