I have been having problems with this swich on my 93 F350 for a while. I would have to turn on the ignition and then shove the clutch to the froor, several times, until the switch was hit just right. I got under the dash and fiddled with it & noticed that it would slide up & down on the shaft that it is monted on. I found this unusual but since I know nothing about this truck, I just let it go. Finally I bought a new switch, brought it to a mechanic to have it installed. The mechanic said that it was not the switch, he said that there is sauposed to be some kind of a retainer to secure the swich to the rod,which is missing. can anyone give me more information about this, I would like to fix it, it is a pain

 

unplug the switch and jumper the connector together untill you find the parts you need... it will start all the time no need to push the clutch down..just dont leave it that way

 

I don't understand what do you mean by "jump the connector togather" ? I am old enough to remember when clutches didn't have safety switches, I don't see the need for them. I have never started a vehicle in gear without putting the clutch in first. I would like to disconnect or bypass this thing!

 

The clutch interlock does two jobs, Clutch safety switch and cruise control deactivation.
If you do not have cruise you can bypass the switch.

Actually there should be 4 wires, two for start interlock, two for cruise control.

 

I do have cruise, so I can't disconnect it, I have to fix it. What about the retainer clip to hold switch in place. I think that it might be called the "orientation clip". is this something that i can buy? What does it look like?

 

Couldn't i just twist the 2 start interlock wires togather Thus bypassing the safety switch & still use switch for cruise?

 

IF the switch still works I guess you could do that but I think I would just fix it

 

I would fix it if i could find out what it is that prevents the switch from sliding up & down the shaft. If i knew what it looked like, where it goes on shaft & what it is called then i could try to get another one to replace the one that has apparently just dissapeared

 

just go to the ford Dealer the parts dept will have a exploded view and order whats missing...with the stop missing I am going to assume the clutch switch will not work...

 

I have to turn on ignition, push clutch in hard until it makes contact, if it will not contact i get under dash & giggle it around & try again, this usually works

 

The switch in my 93 is a cylinder with a piston inside the cylinder. The piston slides over the rod and the rod has a step machined into it where the piston catches. Both the piston and the cylinder are cut diagonally the width of the rod so it can be slid over the rod as an assembly.

As you press on the clutch pedal the piston gets moved forward toward the firewall. The cylinder portion is tight up against the firewall and the piston returns via a spring inside the cylinder as you let the clutch go.

Once you have engaged the clutch pedal the piston makes electrical contacts with the cylinder and closes the the starter circuit and if you have cruise control, also disengages the cruise control.

If you got the right part all you should have to do is:

1, Disconnect the electrical connector from the switch.
2, Remove the plastic clip that holds the switch onto the rod (This clip runs along the cylinder on top of the cylinder. (A bit of a beach to get at)
3, Pull the switch off the rod.
4, Install the new switch, you may have to compress the piston a little to get it to slide onto the narrow portion of the clutch rod. If you try to force it without compressing the piston it won't go on at the piston does not fit over the larger shoulder on the shaft.
5, Re-install the clip and the electrical connector.

Now having said all that I did have problems with my switch after I had the cracking issues on my clutch bracket and firewall with my switch not engaging properly and letting me start the truck.

To fix this I machined myself a +/- 1/4" thick Aluminium disk with a hole in the middle and a slot cut diagonally the diameter of the hole. I slide this disk between my Firewall and the switch cylinder and this moved the cylinder out so when I depressed the clutch the piston would once again fully engage.

I hope the above is clear as mud. A picture sure would help here as it all is a lot simpler than it sounds.


Seb...

 

Well I fixed my problem, took Hamberger example & modified it a little. Went to Lowes & found some nylon (semi hard) washers, 1" od--3/8" id about 1/16" thick, took a pair of scissors & cut through one side so that I could bend it & get it over the shaft . It took 4 washers about $1.30 to fix it. I should have done this sooner.