Extensive rust in floor pans...how to fix?
#1
Extensive rust in floor pans...how to fix?
Check out these pics in the link below. I have some real bad rust in both floor pans along the door jams. What is going to be the best way to approach this? I have no welding equipment and dont like the idea of bondo (not that bondo would necessarily work on this). I want it done right. I believe I can purchase new floor pans. Can a good welder cut these out with them being so close to the door jam area? Would a body shop do this?
Flickr: taneum's Photostream
Flickr: taneum's Photostream
#2
#3
as long as its not really into the kickplate area(the aluminum side strips) shouldnt be too bad. my passenger side looked that way so i bought a $30 pan from lmc, it will also overlay it all too so only the horrible parts need cut out, sometimes i got away with 'brazing' instead of welding the rustier edges. thats just a torch and wire hanger more or less soldering lol. may not be what you would want to try. if you have some money for a cheap wire welder like i bought from harbor freight, the wire feed welders work better on rusty stuff and thin metals. youll be cheaper there than goin to a body shop for sure. lmc also offers a replacement rocker peice if the floorpan replacement will not cover it. welding is going to be required(sorry man)
its going to be stepped on and rocks will fling from the tires so bondo is definitly out of the question except for really small spots.
heres what lmc offers. the floorpan is 40 bucks(used to be 30...damn) they work good. and the 'inner rocker panel' is 75 bucks if you absolutly have to. both on this page
Truck Parts and Truck Accessories <----------
its going to be stepped on and rocks will fling from the tires so bondo is definitly out of the question except for really small spots.
heres what lmc offers. the floorpan is 40 bucks(used to be 30...damn) they work good. and the 'inner rocker panel' is 75 bucks if you absolutly have to. both on this page
Truck Parts and Truck Accessories <----------
#4
Time to buy a welder....it'll pay for itself for the outside cost to replace those two pans. I suggest the Miller 140AS... current street price around $720.
Example from my 65 'Stang. The next weekend I did the other side...I'd rather work on my trucks cuz they have more room!!!:
With a new seat platform too!!
Example from my 65 'Stang. The next weekend I did the other side...I'd rather work on my trucks cuz they have more room!!!:
With a new seat platform too!!
#6
If its an art then I'm a crappy artist.
However, it is a skill that I've learned through trial and error (lots).
I think it's worthwhile to learn but everyone is different.
If its something you don't want to tackle maybe a buddy with the skill can help.
As far as your floor, if it's just in the flat part it's an easy replace. If its gotten into anyplace that joins to another section it gets a bit more involved.
Try taking a screwdriver and poke the heck out of any place with rust and see if you can get it to penetrate the metal. Don't be shy about it, really whack it. You don't want to miss anything. Pay attention to where the cab mounts to the frame if you have not.
Good luck.
However, it is a skill that I've learned through trial and error (lots).
I think it's worthwhile to learn but everyone is different.
If its something you don't want to tackle maybe a buddy with the skill can help.
As far as your floor, if it's just in the flat part it's an easy replace. If its gotten into anyplace that joins to another section it gets a bit more involved.
Try taking a screwdriver and poke the heck out of any place with rust and see if you can get it to penetrate the metal. Don't be shy about it, really whack it. You don't want to miss anything. Pay attention to where the cab mounts to the frame if you have not.
Good luck.
#7
I'll post another pic tonight but where the carpet keepers screw into the floor is rusted out. Not completely rusted out in that area but there is some. It's actually about an in or two in from that where its completely rusted though. Thats what I am afraid of, that its more than just the flat metal area in the middle of the pan.
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#8
There are several other tools you will need besides a welder..... You could probably get by on this job with a drill with spot weld cutter bit, 4.5" angle grinder with wire wheels flap disc and cutting wheels, and some clamps to hold the patch.
The way i see it you have two options:
1) If you want it done right and professional looking (hopefully) the first time spend the money to have a body shop or someone else with experience to replace the floor boards.
2) If your interested in learning and you think you may use the tools you purchase (welder, grinders, clamps, etc.) again in the future then take the plunge and attempt to do it yourself. Mistakes will be made, i have never talked to anyone, myself included who hasn't made mistakes on there first (second or even third) attempts at this stuff, but that is in my opinion the best way to learn.
Take some time to read about MIG welding (wire feed welder), body work, panel replacement, etc. then make a decision. You can get lower quaility MIG welders and other tools pretty cheap which may work fine for what you need and your expectations. Note that a lower quality MIG welder with flux core wire (no shielding gas) will only make this more difficult and steepen the learning curve, not to say it can't be done with this equipment by any means though.
The way i see it you have two options:
1) If you want it done right and professional looking (hopefully) the first time spend the money to have a body shop or someone else with experience to replace the floor boards.
2) If your interested in learning and you think you may use the tools you purchase (welder, grinders, clamps, etc.) again in the future then take the plunge and attempt to do it yourself. Mistakes will be made, i have never talked to anyone, myself included who hasn't made mistakes on there first (second or even third) attempts at this stuff, but that is in my opinion the best way to learn.
Take some time to read about MIG welding (wire feed welder), body work, panel replacement, etc. then make a decision. You can get lower quaility MIG welders and other tools pretty cheap which may work fine for what you need and your expectations. Note that a lower quality MIG welder with flux core wire (no shielding gas) will only make this more difficult and steepen the learning curve, not to say it can't be done with this equipment by any means though.
#9
'Read a few books, some magazine articles, watched vids on U-tube, read up on welding theory, and bought the tools. ..I've even made some side money doing artwork .. here is some yard art...appraised and sold one for $275. Each one took about four hours to make including breaks and alot of head scratching.
Howz that for a tool paying for itself?
#10
I am not opposed to learning at all (I am restoring a truck and don;t know how to do that). I just don't want to make a mess out of something and make the problem worse. So, quick pprice break down please?
Cost of somebody doing it for me?
Cost of doing it myself (welder, tools, materials, etc..)
(I have an angle grinder)
Cost of somebody doing it for me?
Cost of doing it myself (welder, tools, materials, etc..)
(I have an angle grinder)
#11
I am not opposed to learning at all (I am restoring a truck and don;t know how to do that). I just don't want to make a mess out of something and make the problem worse. So, quick pprice break down please?
Cost of somebody doing it for me?
Cost of doing it myself (welder, tools, materials, etc..)
(I have an angle grinder)
Cost of somebody doing it for me?
Cost of doing it myself (welder, tools, materials, etc..)
(I have an angle grinder)
80/20 gas (20 cu.ft?) gas bottle: $100... refills are about $30
Auto dimming helmet - $200
Angle grinder - $40
Hammer & dolly kit.. varies... $50 on the low end. Upgrade later.
Magnets - $10
Hole punch - $25
Step bits - $15
Spot weld cutters $60
Snips - $20
Consumables - $40 (discs, flap wheels, etc.)
... for about $1300 would get your fab going AND you get to keep the tools. IMO, an true investment.
Practice on scraps.... make art or some shop tools.
Farmed out? ... Depends. The typical shop rate is $70 to $90 an hour.
#12
HIO Silver - Now that is art!
taneum- It is very difficult to put a price on these type of repair, especially without seeing the truck in person and without having knowledge of the labor prices in your area. Take it to get an estimate or have someone come out to give you one is my best advice.
As far as buying the tools and doing the work yourself; buying a low end or used welder, other necessary tools, consumables, patch panels, safety equipment, sealants and coatings, etc. I would estimate that it could be done for around $500. Money for tools and supplies adds up fast.
taneum- It is very difficult to put a price on these type of repair, especially without seeing the truck in person and without having knowledge of the labor prices in your area. Take it to get an estimate or have someone come out to give you one is my best advice.
As far as buying the tools and doing the work yourself; buying a low end or used welder, other necessary tools, consumables, patch panels, safety equipment, sealants and coatings, etc. I would estimate that it could be done for around $500. Money for tools and supplies adds up fast.
#13
#14
You've made the first step by buying the truck to restore. So in essence you already committed yourself to a learning process.
May as well embrace it and jump all the way in.
The only way to know if it's done right (qualified) is to do it yourself.
Most of the peeps on this sight feel that way.
May as well embrace it and jump all the way in.
The only way to know if it's done right (qualified) is to do it yourself.
Most of the peeps on this sight feel that way.
#15
ive seen plenty of good how-to welding videos on youtube. lots of good tips. sheet metal is fairly easy. making a "tack" weld is the first step to learning.
if you was to take two peices and join them together you would...
clean them well off all rust/paint with a grinder.
clamp them down where you want them to be.
tack the beginning and the end first. heat causes things to grow apart. then start tacking every inch or so and again over and over(while wire wheeling as you go to keep it all clean) until its completly one peice. once you get that down you can practice making a continuous "bead" about an inch long.
the best way to learn is by doing it really. just take random peices of scrap, grind them and weld them together, try to break them afterwards and see if your doing it right. if it breaks try to find what went wrong. maybe didnt have enough heat and didnt get deep enough, etc. youll have to learn the welder itself and how it works best with your techniques. its really fun!
if you was to take two peices and join them together you would...
clean them well off all rust/paint with a grinder.
clamp them down where you want them to be.
tack the beginning and the end first. heat causes things to grow apart. then start tacking every inch or so and again over and over(while wire wheeling as you go to keep it all clean) until its completly one peice. once you get that down you can practice making a continuous "bead" about an inch long.
the best way to learn is by doing it really. just take random peices of scrap, grind them and weld them together, try to break them afterwards and see if your doing it right. if it breaks try to find what went wrong. maybe didnt have enough heat and didnt get deep enough, etc. youll have to learn the welder itself and how it works best with your techniques. its really fun!