Presented for your consideration, comments or amusement.
I have a Harbor Freight [HF] flat trailer #94564 for hauling small equipment, mulch, dirt in & out of my back yard. Trailer is rated as 2050 pounds total when maximally loaded. I've never used it with than a a few hundred pounds on its platform, so far to deliver a boxed hot water heater, gas dryer & dishwashing machine to my front porch.
It was easy to drive & handle in all respects but one.
I've practiced backing this thing up for hours, and am no better at aiming this thing properly than when I started. I've given up on learning this.
I think part of my problem is the short length between the axle and the hitch. I have to be careful when turning sharply so that the trailer doesn't hit the back bumper.
I'm sure I would be able to back the trailer up if I could attach it to a front mounted trailer ball on my F150.
I am replacing the radiator support sheet metal on my F150 and so have removed the bumper, grille, grille support and all the plastic attachments in front.
Looking at the front ends of the box beams of the frame, I could easily bolt on a HF bumper receiver like this:
3500 Lb. Step Bumper Receiver
to either of the protruding ends of the box beams, using either U-bolts or through bolts to another plate on top of the beams.
I already have the receiver tubes, etc. needed to attach to the trailer.
I know this would be off-center. I don't think this matters for my intended purpose -- backing the loaded trailer at a maximum speed of 2 mph.
There are regular frame mounted custom front trailer hitches for around $200 . I don't want to invest that kind of money for something used so infrequently.
Is my idea practical? Safe?

 

that would help or lengthen your trailor hitch then you save the step of having to hitch up again to the front.

 

i made a front mount reciever by taking a bent unit off a dodge, cut the bent arms off, and fabricated plates to hook it to my plow frame and front bumper on the 88.
cost me about $15 for welding rods, grade 8 bolts, electricity, and 3 hours work.


as far as backing up with the short trailer, if you make sharp turns, you will jam yourself up. you need to make slight fast turns and it is makes it a snap

 

Thanks for the tip on the 'bent unit' that is cheaper than what I paid just for the new part. I will look for that on my next trip to Pull-a-part.
My street & yard configuration mandates a 90 degree reverse turn, no way I can avoid it, plus there is a curb to bump over and the side yard is tilted sideways. I can just barely back this trailer straight reverse on a flat parking lot, and have not been able to do what I really need to do.

 

Why not use the truck as a TRUCK. Haul the items in the bed and not have to worry about backing a short wheel base trailer.

 

because sometimes you have too much to fit in the truck and need a trailer to get it all in one trip?

 

I have a camper shell on the back. Some stuff is too filthy to put back there. Flat bed trailers are easier to clean.

 

Just a quick reminder. When you want the trailer to swing to your left, place your hand on the bottom of the steering wheel, and move it to your left. Same will apply to right turns. That will also apply to a front mounted hitch, by the way...Gradual movement will control trailer directly.

Bicycle flags on the fiberglas poles attached to the rear of trailer will help visual line up.

 

how big is it 4X8? .....just unhook and push it. You could make a couple brackets and use some 2X4's to turn it in to a wheelbarrow.

EDIT: I appoligize if you are physically unable or disabled to the point that you can not push a trailer, I just thought I would offer this becasue I have seen people spend 45 minutes and sometimes longer backing small trailers/boats etc trying to get them in to places when they could have been pushed in to place in mere seconds.

 

A larger trailer is much easier to back up, I have a 5x10 single axle that I built that backs beautifully. My 20' gooseneck is a pain, but I did manage to turn that around in a 75' square space the other day. My old truck bed trailer was really squirrelly backing up, you had to chase that thing all over.
If you were to get a 5x10 or 6x12, that would make life easier. I have seen those HF trailers, and wouldn't pull one with my garden tractor, much less on the open road. The tongue is flimsy stamped steel, plus it's all little bits that bolt together.

 

For the weight that you're looking to move, your idea is more than practical/safe and you shouldn't have too many problems but I suspect it'll be a pain to have it off-center like that. To improve on your idea and mount it dead center, you could always use a piece of 2x2 tube and weld a bracket onto each end to mate to your frame rails. Then just bolt the receiver to the 2x2 and you'll have a dead center receiver than can also be removed if need be.

As for backing advice, those little 4x8's are hard to see behind the truck so you can also buy cheap 8' length of PVC and quick-attach/rig it to each fender. That'll make backing it up SUBSTANTIALLY easier because you now have a point of reference.