need some help with leveling kits
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 69
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From: near altoona pa
need some help with leveling kits
first, is it going to change my ride if i put a 2 1/5 level kit on the front and a bigger block on the rear, I have a 2011 250, like how the 350 sits better than mine, can i just buy the spacers for the front with the shock extenders? or should i buy the shock and spacer kit also, has anybody here tried this and are you glad you did? dont want to have to get my front end changed to do this, or do you have to, thanks, and a link for the best kit would be nice also, thanks, Tj
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,326
Likes: 18
From: Gilbert
I went with a 2.5" readylift kit (stage 2 kit that comes with spacers, shock extenders, etc). Truck rides the same as it did before since I'm using the same hardware. I have no regrets, install was fairly easy.
Link with pics:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ll-thread.html
The kit that I bought. Yours will be different since my truck is a one ton and you're going with blocks as well, but just to give you an idea:
ReadyLift 2011-2012 Ford F350 Super Duty 2.5" Leveling Kit
Link with pics:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ll-thread.html
The kit that I bought. Yours will be different since my truck is a one ton and you're going with blocks as well, but just to give you an idea:
ReadyLift 2011-2012 Ford F350 Super Duty 2.5" Leveling Kit
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,406
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From: Altoona, Ia
To make it look like a 350 all that is needed is taller blocks in the rear. The front is the same on the 250/350.
If you do decide to raise the front height you should get new shocks that are longer and either a drop track bar bracket or adjustable track bar to re-center the axle. With a 2.5" spacer the front axle will be sticking out the drivers side 3/8-1/2" further than the passenger side. You can use shock extenders and skip the track bar but the ride will suffer and it will likely pull harder to the left while driving.
An alignment will also be needed to correct caster and likely will require new caster bushing that have more adjustment. Other option is radius arm drop brackets but that will require more than 2.5" of front lift to work right.
If you do decide to raise the front height you should get new shocks that are longer and either a drop track bar bracket or adjustable track bar to re-center the axle. With a 2.5" spacer the front axle will be sticking out the drivers side 3/8-1/2" further than the passenger side. You can use shock extenders and skip the track bar but the ride will suffer and it will likely pull harder to the left while driving.
An alignment will also be needed to correct caster and likely will require new caster bushing that have more adjustment. Other option is radius arm drop brackets but that will require more than 2.5" of front lift to work right.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,406
Likes: 3
From: Altoona, Ia
It was more of the combination of shifted axle and shock extenders I was referring to. I haven't used shock extenders personally but have read several post where people stated they had problems with the extenders. Mainly the extender not staying in place and letting the shock move around as it's compressed/extended.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,616
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From: Whitecourt AB, Canada
To make it look like a 350 all that is needed is taller blocks in the rear. The front is the same on the 250/350.
If you do decide to raise the front height you should get new shocks that are longer and either a drop track bar bracket or adjustable track bar to re-center the axle. With a 2.5" spacer the front axle will be sticking out the drivers side 3/8-1/2" further than the passenger side. You can use shock extenders and skip the track bar but the ride will suffer and it will likely pull harder to the left while driving.
An alignment will also be needed to correct caster and likely will require new caster bushing that have more adjustment. Other option is radius arm drop brackets but that will require more than 2.5" of front lift to work right.
If you do decide to raise the front height you should get new shocks that are longer and either a drop track bar bracket or adjustable track bar to re-center the axle. With a 2.5" spacer the front axle will be sticking out the drivers side 3/8-1/2" further than the passenger side. You can use shock extenders and skip the track bar but the ride will suffer and it will likely pull harder to the left while driving.
An alignment will also be needed to correct caster and likely will require new caster bushing that have more adjustment. Other option is radius arm drop brackets but that will require more than 2.5" of front lift to work right.
Do you prefer a new track bar or will the mounting drop bracket work okay?
Are there any products out there that will keep the factory "rake" since level with an unloaded truck means sagging when it is loaded.
F-450 springs are also reasonably priced at $135 each, would that fit on the front axle of a F-350? It would also have the added benefit of offering a stiffer ride while spacers don't since they are a passive chunk of metal.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Altoona, Ia
Most radius arm drop kits advertise 4.5" of lift to have the correct caster angle but I'm sure 3.5" would be close enough.
New adjustable track bar is the only way to go. Cost is comparable and it's completely adjustable so it makes the axle just about perfectly center.
Readylift makes several kits that keep some rake.
F450 springs might work, not really sure to be honest. I don't see why they wouldn't work. Most of the frontend is the same on the 450 as the 250/350.
New adjustable track bar is the only way to go. Cost is comparable and it's completely adjustable so it makes the axle just about perfectly center.
Readylift makes several kits that keep some rake.
F450 springs might work, not really sure to be honest. I don't see why they wouldn't work. Most of the frontend is the same on the 450 as the 250/350.
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Freshman User
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I put in a 2.5" Readylift sst kit originally. It was the stage 3 kit with the track bar bracket. Last week I added another inch to the front along with the radius arm drop brackets. Truck rides much better now. Still has some rake to it as well. (3.5" in front, 5" block in the rear). I originally used the shock brackets and had no issues. I did however just upgrade my shocks and went with longer ones so I no longer use the brackets.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 423
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From: Stafford Virginia
I went with Ready Lift stage 4 (3.5" front / 5" block rear). My truck rides like stock but I have some nice height. Ready Lift makes some quality products. In fact I just towed a 4000 lb boat and I barely squatted.
I have a slight rake but you cannot tell without a measuring tape. Looks 100% level.
I have a slight rake but you cannot tell without a measuring tape. Looks 100% level.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,616
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From: Whitecourt AB, Canada
Yeah I am looking into that 69-2531 kit that you mentioned. I don't think the rear block will be quite tall enough to keep the rake though. I might have to find a 7" block, which apparently exists since I was wandering through the used lot at the dealer and quite a few trucks had massive blocks on the rear axle. Plus it might make it closer to loading dock height which is an extra bonus 
Either way the rear block isn't an immediate issue. If it is, that's something relatively easy to implement later on anyway.
I also considered buying a spring pack off a F-350 SRW bed delete which has more spring leafs but then I would need to source a bigger U-bolt from somewhere.
It's just a decision whether I want to try and hack together a "kit" from OEM Ford parts from the class 4 or class 5 trucks or just buy a commercially available kit. It's just the thought of the spacer being a non-springing chunk of metal. I guess I can also get custom springs made up but I don't want to spend all that much (if I did I would just do a full suspension swap kit and be done with it).
Spring pack off a F-350 SRW bed delete
Either way the rear block isn't an immediate issue. If it is, that's something relatively easy to implement later on anyway.
I also considered buying a spring pack off a F-350 SRW bed delete which has more spring leafs but then I would need to source a bigger U-bolt from somewhere.
It's just a decision whether I want to try and hack together a "kit" from OEM Ford parts from the class 4 or class 5 trucks or just buy a commercially available kit. It's just the thought of the spacer being a non-springing chunk of metal. I guess I can also get custom springs made up but I don't want to spend all that much (if I did I would just do a full suspension swap kit and be done with it).
Spring pack off a F-350 SRW bed delete
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