transmission install tips?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,437
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From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
Did you remove the tranny cover from the floorboard? That will give you some more room above the tranny to work with.
Just had a random crazy idea... roll the windows down, put a 4x4 (or 2) through the windows positioned over the tranny. That hopefully will give you enough clearance to stick a come along, or at least some rope, in there to hold the tranny up while you fiddle around with it.
Just had a random crazy idea... roll the windows down, put a 4x4 (or 2) through the windows positioned over the tranny. That hopefully will give you enough clearance to stick a come along, or at least some rope, in there to hold the tranny up while you fiddle around with it.
I wouldnt risk bending the door or breaking the door panel. You could build a jig that rests on the floorboards. When I did the clutch in my 4x4 5spd IDI, I left trANS AND TRANSFER ATTACHED AND made a bracket that bolted to the bottom of the trans. 2 bolts where the inspection cover bolts and 1 at the trans mount. Then I guessed where the balance point was, drilleed a hole and bolted it loosely to a floor jack. You need to get the angle just right so the 2 mating surfaces on the trans and engine are parallell. When you get things lined up, shake the trans up/down, side to side while pushing it towards the engine.
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2012
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we removed everything the book said, the dust covers on both tranny and transfer case, it just doesn't help whatsoever, im gonna go buy a cheap 3 ton jack and try it again probably next weekend one more time. I just cannot see how people have done this multiple times at home. even a tranny jack wouldn't help because that jacks the thing up completely level on the jack, but you have to tilt the tranny to even get it up in there?
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Elder User
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I wouldnt risk bending the door or breaking the door panel. You could build a jig that rests on the floorboards. When I did the clutch in my 4x4 5spd IDI, I left trANS AND TRANSFER ATTACHED AND made a bracket that bolted to the bottom of the trans. 2 bolts where the inspection cover bolts and 1 at the trans mount. Then I guessed where the balance point was, drilleed a hole and bolted it loosely to a floor jack. You need to get the angle just right so the 2 mating surfaces on the trans and engine are parallell. When you get things lined up, shake the trans up/down, side to side while pushing it towards the engine.
That leads me to think we have the clutch disk in backwards, because when we put the tip of the input shaft in the hole and try to jack it up to line it up horizontally and vertically, it always seems to move the clutch disk out of line, and the pressure plate is tightened down on it... it's just very frustratinfg
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2013
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From: Naples FL
sounds like ya might have to find a cupple of thirsty buddys and buy a cupple 12 packs and invite them over in exchange of a hand throwing that thing up there (it would hapl if u did not have to swap one the biggest trannys for your frist time if thats the case i started out doing jeeps lol and just had to do bigger ones but figured out how on smaller ones sorry to hear ya haveing that much trubble buy im here to tell u something you just need help with
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,221
Likes: 17
They are a beast, and your arms get tired quickly.
On the transmission jack, the plate the transmission sits on is adjustable for angle. They do help, but they don't take away all the muscle work.
Just a random thought, are you sure the clutch disc is the correct one? Correct spline count and size?
On the transmission jack, the plate the transmission sits on is adjustable for angle. They do help, but they don't take away all the muscle work.
Just a random thought, are you sure the clutch disc is the correct one? Correct spline count and size?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,437
Likes: 4
From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
That leads me to think we have the clutch disk in backwards, because when we put the tip of the input shaft in the hole and try to jack it up to line it up horizontally and vertically, it always seems to move the clutch disk out of line, and the pressure plate is tightened down on it... it's just very frustratinfg
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 420
Likes: 0
From: Naples FL
well if it makes u feel any better ill be doing the same thing except ill be lineing my motor up with the tranny so ill feel your pain vary soon 
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Elder User
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@chevy eater: i'm pretty sure it's the right clutch disk, i think i put it on top of the old one, i know the pressure plate is the same because i know we compared those. i'll take the clutch disk all the way back out and see if it's in the right way. not sure if the spline count is right. but i assume it would be.
@bashby: it makes sense what you're saying, considering when it's installed properly it is supposed to have enough friction to turn the flywheel. it would slip like crazy if it's loose enough to slip when just tring to line up the input shaft.
you mean to jack the front of the engine up to lower the backside, where would you recommend i jack it up at. oh lord... that means we gotta use TWO jacks! haha
@bashby: it makes sense what you're saying, considering when it's installed properly it is supposed to have enough friction to turn the flywheel. it would slip like crazy if it's loose enough to slip when just tring to line up the input shaft.
you mean to jack the front of the engine up to lower the backside, where would you recommend i jack it up at. oh lord... that means we gotta use TWO jacks! haha
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,737
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From: Western Mass
Thats what I was saying before about the disk. There is NO WAY it can move with the pressure plate tightened. You're more likely to break the disc than move it.
What are you using for the alignment tool? Is it the plastic one that usually comes with a clutch kit? If so, its splined to fit the disc. Take it and stick in through your old disc and see if it fits right. While they generally do a good job, you may have to wiggle it around slightly to make sure its really centered and sticking out straight. The weight of the disc might let it droop a little bit if its just hanging there, especially if its a loose fit inside the pilot bearing.
What are you using for the alignment tool? Is it the plastic one that usually comes with a clutch kit? If so, its splined to fit the disc. Take it and stick in through your old disc and see if it fits right. While they generally do a good job, you may have to wiggle it around slightly to make sure its really centered and sticking out straight. The weight of the disc might let it droop a little bit if its just hanging there, especially if its a loose fit inside the pilot bearing.
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Elder User
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No its a pretty tight fit inside the pilot bearing, i'll check to make sure that it fits in the old one, and it's just the plastic one. what would yall recommend if it's the right disk and installed the right way as well as alligned? Do you think i should maybe tighten it down more? I do have a cheapo advanced auto torque wrench, which is in inch pounds so i have to convert to foot pounds but the manual lists 29ft. lbs
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Terre Haute, IN
That's about 350 in-lbs... pretty high for that small of a torque wrench.
Did you try (can you) lowering the rear of the engine?
I have a hard time offering suggestions since i can't see what you see and it sounds like you've tried about everything. I agree though that you shouldn't be able to move the clutch disk once it's bolted down. I guess make sure nothing it pressing on the pressure plate fingers?
Did you try (can you) lowering the rear of the engine?
I have a hard time offering suggestions since i can't see what you see and it sounds like you've tried about everything. I agree though that you shouldn't be able to move the clutch disk once it's bolted down. I guess make sure nothing it pressing on the pressure plate fingers?
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Elder User
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the wrench goes up to like 960 in. lbs.
i have been told to jack the front of the engine up which would lower the rear. gonna see how that works.
im wondering how much i should try to jack it up. like an inch or half an inch or what?
i have been told to jack the front of the engine up which would lower the rear. gonna see how that works.
im wondering how much i should try to jack it up. like an inch or half an inch or what?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,437
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From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
AS far as jacking up the front of the engine, I have done it on the crank pulley, using a block of wood. I have seen 1 guy bend the snout of the crank this way, so do so at your own risk. Just don't put too much pressure on it and you will be fine. Use a block of wood also. How far to tilt it, you ask? It depends on how far out of parallell the engine and trans are. I did not have to tilt the engine when I did the clutch in mine. (5 speed) If your trans is hitting the floorpan and not allowing you to line it up then you may need to tilt it back.
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2012
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bending the crank. not good.. ugh... do i risk bending or breaking motor mounts if i try to tilt it too much? the line up is definitely far from parallel. Is there no other area to jack the front of it up?