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460 Rear Main Seal Replacement Without Engine Pull?

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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 08:54 AM
  #1  
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460 Rear Main Seal Replacement Without Engine Pull?

I have a 77 Highboy with a 460 in it. Lots of room under the truck, I was wondering if I can drop the oil pain and change the rear main seal without pulling the engine or transmission? I plan on doing a cummins swap later this year so just trying to stop the leak for now.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 08:59 AM
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There is enough room there to get the pan out.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 10:04 AM
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You might have to loosen the motor mounts and pull it up a little. Had to do that to get my pan out. I also had to lift the truck from the frame to drop the axle a little, and drop my exhaust. I am running L&L's though and it's a tight fit to the rear of the pan. I still didn't have to remove the motor completely.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 10:20 AM
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There is about 8 inches between my axle and the bottom of the pan. I'm not really too worried about getting the pan out. I guess my question is more will I be able to get to the rear main bracket to loosen it and loosen the crank so I can replace the seal. I did read about the 3/4" tilt placement of the seal and all so hopefully I can do that part right.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 10:24 AM
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My springs were really sagged when I dropped mine. So obviously I had a clearance issue. Once the pans out it should be wide open down there.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 01:00 PM
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I know there was a little trick to getting the pan completely out, but on mine I didn't have to do anything but take off the dip stick, loosen the pan bolts and drop the pan. I run L&L chassis exit headers and there was clearance.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by bucks77ford
I know there was a little trick to getting the pan completely out, but on mine I didn't have to do anything but take off the dip stick, loosen the pan bolts and drop the pan. I run L&L chassis exit headers and there was clearance.
I second this I've done it twice. It's not fun and it doesn't come out as easy as you would like but you can do it. I also have headers and oil pan will come out.

Just an extra note: While your pan is down if it needs painted do it real quick. You can't buy aftermarket oil pans for these trucks (at least the last time I looked) so keep the one you have in good shape.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 10:01 AM
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When your in there ready to do the seal, heres a few tricks. Loosen the rod caps, and main caps. If you have an auto tranny, loosen the torque converter bolts too. This will allow the crank to relax a bit from the block. To drive out the seal, use an aluminum punch/drift. You dont want to slip and nick the crank with a steel one. Lips side of seal faces front of engine. When my engine was rebuilt (not by me), the rear seal leaked only when engine was shut off. Go figure. When I pulled the lower main cap off, the lip was facing the wrong way. Luckly since the engine was new, I just installed a new lower lip seal.
 
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