When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
If I understand it correctly, the EBP effects MPG because it helps calculate load. Increased Load increases MFD, and depending on the tuning, increased PW and ICP. So yes, Rich it could have something to do with your noise. I'd pull the tube and make sure that it is working fine, as well as clean, and make sure that both the hole in your manifold is clean, and the hole in the bracket is clean.
If you are running at an artifically increased load, (bad EBP) you will be using more fuel, and most likely drowning the turbo in fuel because the PCM is assuming you are at a higher boost than you are. Good Catch. I need to check mine. Along with that, I wouldnt be too fast to jump at your injectors. Split shots are louder, but not that much louder. I'd bet there are still some tuning tweaks that could be made to quiet them down a bit, or isolate what the problem is. Rich PM me and I'll discuss further.
All. I'm done with the whole "I know what we can do... let's pop VCs this weekend" thing. Buck$Zooka's loaded, finger's itchy, and the target's in the middle of the "You're history" eyepiece.
Originally Posted by Bonanza35
Subcribing, I always get that stain since I switched to magnaflow exhaust. I just figured because it didn't come with the longer tip.
I couldn't assure you that it's not the short pipe doing it. My truck just never did it before, plus the movement of my fuel gauge created a draft... so I didn't shop around for any bargains on the sensor. I burned about $15-$20 worth of execss fuel in one drive to/from work. I always preach making sure your truck is 100% and I'm used to fuel economy in the high teens.
Originally Posted by 2000ca250
Rich PM me and I'll discuss further.
It's the same knock I had on #1... and we all know how that turned out. I also have a loud solenoid click on the driver side. I did the buzz test again (dead cold), and something's not quite right. I will be popping the connector on the IDM to replace the dielectric... just to be thorough. I can hear one injector change "pitch" when warming up... if there is such a thing.
I've CSI'd my way through these obscure problems and I've thrown everything at Stinky but a new (not reman) set of sticks and new lug nuts. It was a coin toss, but it came up heads. PM coming.
Maybe the "buckzooka" (or whatever it's called) would be better off fired at a prius....
To clarify, I'm paying the price difference between remans and new. I'll get full credit on these and Stinky won't be down while I wait for the new ones to arrive. Ryan has excellent customer support.
Interesting, my X always gets the soot above the tailpipe. Normally takes around 300 miles to start showing up.
Just cleaned my EBPS and tube this last summer and seemed to have a 1mpg drop after the cleaning. I may have to get AE in the end just so I know whats going on.
Is AE ford specific? Can it be used with other vehicles?
Interesting, my X always gets the soot above the tailpipe. Normally takes around 300 miles to start showing up.
Just cleaned my EBPS and tube this last summer and seemed to have a 1mpg drop after the cleaning. I may have to get AE in the end just so I know whats going on.
Is AE ford specific? Can it be used with other vehicles?
You can get software for most other vehicles, even Clay sells some of the options.
It all depends on which bundle you buy. I think most are manufacturer specific. Check with Clay, he carries the ford bundle (assuming that's all fords 96 to present) and he has the Other manufacturers available as add ons I believe.
I'm starting to think, the route i took into cleaning the EBP sensor and tube, may have bit me...removed the tube, plugged the manifold, and capped the sensor.
After reading this thread the other day, and all the #'s thrown out, i've got me a crime scene box headed my way.
I too seem to have lost mpg as winter has approached...
Guys, I've given this a lot of thought. First, I was enthused about AE because it made so much sense for me. Then, I thought this might be a better tool for the technically inclined. Now... I think with the age and miles of these trucks, it's money out the tailpipe if you don't have AE.
I lost about 6 MPG when my EBP went out. That's a disaster for anybody who drives more than a few miles a week. I burn through a tank... per week. This reduced MPG would have me fueling up twice more per month at a minimum. What is that... $250 per month? Without AE, how long would it take to find the problem? How much money in fuel and false parts would any of us burn through before the real problem had a wrench on it? I found it instantly (with AE and the tips from that last link in my signature), and it only cost me me a Franklin at the stealership and 1/8th of a lost tank before I was back to running lean. Without AE, ol' Ben would just pick up the tab on the diagnostics at the dealership... not the hassle to take it there, the part, the labor to replace it, or the fuel loss. I also found a bad IPR one time in a few minutes, not hours or days and waiting for input on the forum... with my truck pronounced dead at the scene. One time I found a bad Park signal from the transmission prevented me from starting the truck... 200 miles from home. Two minutes under the truck and I found a loose connector. KOEO tests yield detailed descriptions of why a code is thrown: Instead of a SES light and an obscure code, I get "Injector 4 open low".
I think AE, a cheat-sheet, and a link to the forum should be part of the purchase of these rigs. Put an end to "Why is my truck doing X?" and being bombarded with suggestions that don't involve asking the truck what's wrong. It's the one doing the bitching anyway, it should tell you something... as long as you have the translator.
Thanks for doing this thread Tugly! You made me aware of a problem with my truck.
I also have a white truck that gets the shadow after 200 miles or so, but I considered that to be normal . Been that way for a year or so.
Truck runs great but mileage has dropped off a little over the last year -1 or -2 MPG towing. Easy to write that off as headwinds, terrain, weather etc.
My truck is a toy puller (sometimes 10k TT, or 6k boat) and sees <10k miles per year. Really don't drive it much without something in tow so I guess I lack feedback others get. I have AE but only break it out occasionally just so I remember how to use it. No known problem no AE.
I checked out the link you provided and ran out and checked my EBP readings KOEO 15 psi, Idle 15.3 psi. Ordered new sensor from Clay, hopefully will see a MPG bump when I install.
Must have came down in price some or I heard a wrong price before when asking about them. I always thought I would be into AE for $500, $50 less then my hondata S300 costs. For $350 I just might have to get it!
The software has the look of hondata. More questions, are you able to make any fuel or ignition (tuning) adjustments to the ecu with AE? Are the ford ECU's able to be retuned? With the hondas I have to solder in a chip to the ECU before I can plug hondata in and start adjusting stuff. Ford is ready to tune?
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.