Question about dead battery
I see on the homepage, they mention made in USA, but it isn't stated anywhere and not tied into which model.
https://www.dcpowerinc.com/dc-power-vs-competition
As a side point I like this:
On the left is an OEM style 4G rectifier assembly. This is the same rectifier used in the competitor’s alternator shown above. Notice that all of the connections from the diodes in the rectifier assembly are soldered. Again, this is OK for an OEM design making 140 Amps or so, but soldered connections simply will not hold up to the heat generated by a high-output alternator! On the right is an OEM style 3G rectifier assembly. We prefer using these wherever possible, because the diodes are pinch welded to the rectifier assembly and not soldered. This is far superior for high-output units as there is no chance that the diodes will come un- soldered like they do when using the 4G rectifier in a high-output build. Finally, the 3G rectifier has an 8C output stud – a much better choice than a 6 C stud!
We use the 3G for 200 Amp and smaller units, while we prefer the 6G for larger units as they are designed to handle the additional current these designs call for. Incidentally, we use a 3G based design for 5.0 Liter Fords because they are far superior to our competitors’ 4G designs.
Big big fan of Ford's 3G.
It may seem I have an issue with DC, my only gripe is poor customer service and high prices.
Josh
The only thing DC claims is to not using Chinese made voltage regulators, no mention of where the rectifiers, stator or where the cases are made.
I see on the homepage, they mention made in USA, but it isn't stated anywhere and not tied into which model.
https://www.dcpowerinc.com/dc-power-vs-competition
As a side point I like this:
On the left is an OEM style 4G rectifier assembly. This is the same rectifier used in the competitor’s alternator shown above. Notice that all of the connections from the diodes in the rectifier assembly are soldered. Again, this is OK for an OEM design making 140 Amps or so, but soldered connections simply will not hold up to the heat generated by a high-output alternator! On the right is an OEM style 3G rectifier assembly. We prefer using these wherever possible, because the diodes are pinch welded to the rectifier assembly and not soldered. This is far superior for high-output units as there is no chance that the diodes will come un- soldered like they do when using the 4G rectifier in a high-output build. Finally, the 3G rectifier has an 8C output stud – a much better choice than a 6 C stud!
We use the 3G for 200 Amp and smaller units, while we prefer the 6G for larger units as they are designed to handle the additional current these designs call for. Incidentally, we use a 3G based design for 5.0 Liter Fords because they are far superior to our competitors’ 4G designs.
Big big fan of Ford's 3G.
It may seem I have an issue with DC, my only gripe is poor customer service and high prices.
Josh
I see on the homepage, they mention made in USA, but it isn't stated anywhere and not tied into which model.
https://www.dcpowerinc.com/dc-power-vs-competition
As a side point I like this:
On the left is an OEM style 4G rectifier assembly. This is the same rectifier used in the competitor’s alternator shown above. Notice that all of the connections from the diodes in the rectifier assembly are soldered. Again, this is OK for an OEM design making 140 Amps or so, but soldered connections simply will not hold up to the heat generated by a high-output alternator! On the right is an OEM style 3G rectifier assembly. We prefer using these wherever possible, because the diodes are pinch welded to the rectifier assembly and not soldered. This is far superior for high-output units as there is no chance that the diodes will come un- soldered like they do when using the 4G rectifier in a high-output build. Finally, the 3G rectifier has an 8C output stud – a much better choice than a 6 C stud!
We use the 3G for 200 Amp and smaller units, while we prefer the 6G for larger units as they are designed to handle the additional current these designs call for. Incidentally, we use a 3G based design for 5.0 Liter Fords because they are far superior to our competitors’ 4G designs.
Big big fan of Ford's 3G.
It may seem I have an issue with DC, my only gripe is poor customer service and high prices.
Josh
OverLoad LOL Just Kidden
GOOD Info Josh
the charging voltage, and the output current available
at that voltage.
the OEM alternator only puts out 13.2 ~ 13.3 volts.
that will charge your battery to 50%, and that is it.
that means your electrical system is running 13.2 or so,
going down the road, so the ficm has to pull more current
to produce it's output voltage, and current flow creates heat.
an aftermarket alternator like dc power regulates at 14.8 volts
all the time, keeps the batteries fully charged, and give you
enough power when the engine is running to run all loads without
pulling down the batteries. so all the batteries are doing is spinning
you around. once up and running, you are immediately charging
them again... batteries also have a "flywheel" effect on the entire
electrical system, smoothing out voltage fluctuations.
the OEM alternator sucks, IMHO.

Just when I'm bored.
Josh
PS.. I get bored a lot.
I do feel bad with how much I have ripped on DC Power alternators. I haven't bought nor have any experience with them personally. Their prices bother me though, especially the 185/190 style.
can't really say right now...had knee surgery yesterday so im on the couch for a few days till i can walk without falling over
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