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It started a few months ago with with interior lights and door ajar light flickering while driving over bumps. Now the gauges stick after I turn off the vehicle. After turning off the vehicle, if I turn the key back to accessories the oil pressure and voltage WILL turn off, but heat and gas gauge stay stuck. Last week the battery mysteriously died while parked overnight. The battery won't take a charge now (charger indicates "charge complete").
After I boost the vehicle and let it run, the voltage gauge bounces between 14-16 volts. If I turn on the head lights the needle stops bouncing. I bought a new battery today and it works perfectly (voltage needle doesnt bounce). Before this the old battery worked perfectly and held a charge well. Was cranking the van very this cold winter.
What should I have my garage check? I think there may be a couple seperate issues yet?
interior lights flickering is corrosion poor connection broken lead on door ajar circuit on slider door contacts or rear lift door switch is failing. runs battery down.
take rig to auto parts store that checks alternator for free, call ahead. autozone is one.
check battery cables and connectors for corrosion especially up under insulation.
check the alternator connections and wires for corrosion and breakage.
check the alternator drive belt for glazing and stretch, how many miles on the belt?
It started a few months ago with with interior lights and door ajar light flickering while driving over bumps. Now the gauges stick after I turn off the vehicle. After turning off the vehicle, if I turn the key back to accessories the oil pressure and voltage WILL turn off, but heat and gas gauge stay stuck. Last week the battery mysteriously died while parked overnight. The battery won't take a charge now (charger indicates "charge complete").
After I boost the vehicle and let it run, the voltage gauge bounces between 14-16 volts. If I turn on the head lights the needle stops bouncing. I bought a new battery today and it works perfectly (voltage needle doesnt bounce). Before this the old battery worked perfectly and held a charge well. Was cranking the van very this cold winter.
What should I have my garage check? I think there may be a couple seperate issues yet?
I'd say your old battery has a dud cell. See what the voltage measures, should be 12.7v if fully charged. Check acid level also.
A dud cell will never allow the battery to reach 12v probably only read about 10.5v or so. Charge voltage with a good battery & good alternator should be 14-15v. Outside this range means trouble brewing.
Door ajar warning light means you have a dodgy contact or faulty door clasp switch or a door is not latching closed properly. Side door is prime suspect for this problem,the button contacts get corroded. My gauges do the same as yours, I think that is normal. If not they will not have any effect on your battery running flat. The door ajar switch is indicated by the latch (clasp) closing improperly, the interior light work from the door frame switch, which is the one with the rubber boot you can press with your finger, maybe your switch button is broken off, causing marginal contact .
I'd get your old battery & alternator tested to be sure it's not overcharging & thus damaging your new battery.
Your problems are also common with bad battery cables or a poor ground. If the vehicles wiring don't get enough juice, a lot of systems will act erratically.