03 E250 Refit (Cargo > Work)
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
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From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
03 E250 Refit (Cargo > Work)
Thought I’d share a bit about a recently finished refit of my ’03 E250 stock w/5.4 gas, extended body, side barn doors with fixed glass. Had been looking all over the USA for the right one and fortunately found this one about 120 miles away. $4500 out the door, 165K miles in decent condition overall including, PW, PDL, A/C and the infernal Remote Keyless Entry which I just don’t care for; too integral to so many features that would operate just fine without it. Anyway………
Mechanically so far I’ve added a Hellwig front and rear sway bars, Bilstein rear shocks (one was leaking good time as any to change). Spare tire winch was a solid chunk of rust since it had never been used---new take off from eBay for $65 from a favorite semi-local seller. I coated the entire cable length with Fluid Film which should keep the rust away. Plugs changed including new boots, next up is trans fluid change and an oil change too—all within the next 1,000 miles. Everything else is working as expected.
Also added a Whelen Hide-A-Way four corner strobe flashing system—liked the pace car look really and it does have a function too---perfect combo! Found all this on eBay for less than $200 new, typically $400 plus.
This van had the typical surface rusted floor including the front foot areas. This is a direct result of the OEM mat absorbing moisture and laying against the painted floor over the years. It would be a week or so before it would be driven home so I asked the seller to remove the mat and flip it over allowing it to dry out. The mat was still half soaked the next week even although the floor itself had dried up nicely. (Besides these mats absorbing and holding moisture against the floor this van often sat for days outside without use. These two conditions seem to be the main reason our E Van’s floors rust as they do.)
A few photos:
Removing the rear mat, seats and smaller front mat I used an angle grinder with wire wheel getting rid of the rust. Despite all the surface rust the floor was still sound. Using POR-15 in silver with high solid content applied exactly to instructions the interior refitting was ready to begin. (This stuff is a wonder product but its efficacy depends immensely on its proper application!)
Johns-Manville firberglass insulation stuffed inside the lower wall cavities then walls and roof covered with a radiant barrier insulation. Using 3M’s 08088 spray adhesive, each surface getting two layers including the roof. This particular radiant barrier is a bubble wrap sandwich with PVC on one side and aluminum foil on the other (foil side against metal surfaces). Along with stopping heat gain in direct sun it serves as a sound deadener and cold weather insulation too. I’ve used this material in two other vans so know it works well in this application.
The front seating area received only a single layer of radiant barrier since I’d be re-using the OEM mat for its durability. By placing the foil side against the POR-15 treated floor I hope to stop the rust from the mats backing material if it continues to absorb moisture. While this makes sense logically we’ll see if it plays out over time.
¾” plywood floor was fitted, individual pieces cut so their edges could be joined with ½” splines placed between the stamped ridges in the floor. No insulation was used under the plywood so moisture wouldn’t be trapped like it was with the OEM rear mat.
Since I need the space I covered the side door step well by extending the plywood floor. The plastic step trim was removed, the new floor edge reinforced with aluminum L shape secured in place with self threading truck floor screws, ¼-20 thread Torx drive, countersunk under the carpet:
This area will eventually accommodate additional storage as well as give me access to support elements of self-designed running boards to be added soon.
From here I began fitting fiberglass reinforced plastic sheeting (FRP) to the walls, experimenting with different ways to achieve a flat vertical wall as high up the side as possible. One idea was to frame it all out but this was soon abandoned:
After a few trial fits along with placing metal shelviing units I decided to use 3/8” plywood sized to fit vertically against the interior steel ribs, filling the spaces with JM fiberglass insulation. This would only be necessary along the walls next to the shelving units. Space behind the shelving units is lost so there was no need to do more than insulate them.
The plywood sheeting runs vertically from the floor to a height that directly contacts the curve of the sides. This gives me about 30” of solid backing for the FRP and future stowing hooks, etc.
FRP and JM insulation was fitted, the result being:
This is all still evolving but now I can firmly secure other mounting points to the plywood-backed FRP without being concerned finding a solid surface under the FRP. As I use this current set-up daily come spring I’ll be able to change things around to better suit my work.
We in the auto glass biz all have in common a need to work from the side doors. Common daily used tools within reach from outside, anything more specialized or seldom used stowed in other areas. This is what I have so far:
Using the doors as storage area really puts frequently used tools right at hand:
At present I’m awaiting more Thin-Lite LED 12 VDC fixtures for interior lighting—amazing light in very small packages. Yet to added are side and rear door mounted switches for the PDL’s and all-on interior lighting. A Pro-Air 60,000 BTU @ 615 CFM rear heater is almost necessary:
I built a control system that allows me to close off the rear heater coil when it’s not needed. This consists of the dash mounted Function Control switch and an electro-vacuum solenoid that controls two valves in the hot coolant loop; one opens, one closes on vacuum. This unit can heat the entire van front and rear all by itself—amazing unit, best buy of this whole refit!
Thin-Lite 12 VDC LED lighting fixture, two stage brightness occupying a 1¼ x 2 x 23 inch space, tucked completely out of the way:
These LED fixtures are pretty amazing in output and extremely low amp draw. I’m awaiting a 46” version to be built, due to arrive late January. Installed along the long center line of the rear cargo area it should be enough to light the entire interior during the night.
(I highly recommend this brand and type of fixture to anyone needing task lighting. They’re not cheap though; about $82 for the 23” version and $120 for its big brother (shipping included). The long life and near perfect solution for lighting makes them worth that cost IMHO. I have three Thin-Lite T-12 fluorescent fixtures so far lasting almost 20 years. They’ve beeen transferred to several other vans along the way and survived each move just great. Talk about quality---that’s quite a track record for anything installed in a work vehicle!)
I’ll be upgrading the entire front suspension to ’12 E250 specs soon; massive braking power up front for very little money. Bilstein shocks and the already-installed Hellwig front sway bar along with Michelin LTX 245/75-R16 should give me a nice ride with ample load handling capacity.
Interior refinements will be attempting to incorporate a ’97 F150 dash cluster with tachometer into the existing stock wiring but that’s long in the future, if its even possible. I have just enough experience with the later model non-digital clusters to (hopefully) make this happen, emphasis on “hopefully”! This isn’t something that’s all that practical or useful but I have this overwhelming curiosity if it can be successfully done. Just one of those guy things maybe…………..??
Will also add heated mirrors and perhaps an over head console. AutoMeter gauges are another wanted addition but not sure if that’ll happen.
Carpeting was donated commercial-grade peel & stick types, a special releasable adhesive required to allow replacement of individual pieces, a distinct and possible necessity given this is a work truck. Along with its super short pile the substantial backing is water proof so no fears of muddy boots or other spilled liquids seeping through to the bare plywood floor. While these individual tiles weren’t my first choice they were free and I have plenty left over for the occasional replacement when that becomes necessary.
Completely stock the van weighs 5300# as first driven home, currently its 7560# which is just about as fully loaded as it will ever be as a daily driver. I might have a leaf or two added to the rear springs to somewhat offset my increase GVW---not sure if that’ll be needed after the Michelin’s are installed.
That’s it so far. Might update this as time goes along but feel free to ask any questions about this---glad to share if I can!
Mechanically so far I’ve added a Hellwig front and rear sway bars, Bilstein rear shocks (one was leaking good time as any to change). Spare tire winch was a solid chunk of rust since it had never been used---new take off from eBay for $65 from a favorite semi-local seller. I coated the entire cable length with Fluid Film which should keep the rust away. Plugs changed including new boots, next up is trans fluid change and an oil change too—all within the next 1,000 miles. Everything else is working as expected.
Also added a Whelen Hide-A-Way four corner strobe flashing system—liked the pace car look really and it does have a function too---perfect combo! Found all this on eBay for less than $200 new, typically $400 plus.
This van had the typical surface rusted floor including the front foot areas. This is a direct result of the OEM mat absorbing moisture and laying against the painted floor over the years. It would be a week or so before it would be driven home so I asked the seller to remove the mat and flip it over allowing it to dry out. The mat was still half soaked the next week even although the floor itself had dried up nicely. (Besides these mats absorbing and holding moisture against the floor this van often sat for days outside without use. These two conditions seem to be the main reason our E Van’s floors rust as they do.)
A few photos:
Removing the rear mat, seats and smaller front mat I used an angle grinder with wire wheel getting rid of the rust. Despite all the surface rust the floor was still sound. Using POR-15 in silver with high solid content applied exactly to instructions the interior refitting was ready to begin. (This stuff is a wonder product but its efficacy depends immensely on its proper application!)
Johns-Manville firberglass insulation stuffed inside the lower wall cavities then walls and roof covered with a radiant barrier insulation. Using 3M’s 08088 spray adhesive, each surface getting two layers including the roof. This particular radiant barrier is a bubble wrap sandwich with PVC on one side and aluminum foil on the other (foil side against metal surfaces). Along with stopping heat gain in direct sun it serves as a sound deadener and cold weather insulation too. I’ve used this material in two other vans so know it works well in this application.
The front seating area received only a single layer of radiant barrier since I’d be re-using the OEM mat for its durability. By placing the foil side against the POR-15 treated floor I hope to stop the rust from the mats backing material if it continues to absorb moisture. While this makes sense logically we’ll see if it plays out over time.
¾” plywood floor was fitted, individual pieces cut so their edges could be joined with ½” splines placed between the stamped ridges in the floor. No insulation was used under the plywood so moisture wouldn’t be trapped like it was with the OEM rear mat.
Since I need the space I covered the side door step well by extending the plywood floor. The plastic step trim was removed, the new floor edge reinforced with aluminum L shape secured in place with self threading truck floor screws, ¼-20 thread Torx drive, countersunk under the carpet:
This area will eventually accommodate additional storage as well as give me access to support elements of self-designed running boards to be added soon.
From here I began fitting fiberglass reinforced plastic sheeting (FRP) to the walls, experimenting with different ways to achieve a flat vertical wall as high up the side as possible. One idea was to frame it all out but this was soon abandoned:
After a few trial fits along with placing metal shelviing units I decided to use 3/8” plywood sized to fit vertically against the interior steel ribs, filling the spaces with JM fiberglass insulation. This would only be necessary along the walls next to the shelving units. Space behind the shelving units is lost so there was no need to do more than insulate them.
The plywood sheeting runs vertically from the floor to a height that directly contacts the curve of the sides. This gives me about 30” of solid backing for the FRP and future stowing hooks, etc.
FRP and JM insulation was fitted, the result being:
This is all still evolving but now I can firmly secure other mounting points to the plywood-backed FRP without being concerned finding a solid surface under the FRP. As I use this current set-up daily come spring I’ll be able to change things around to better suit my work.
We in the auto glass biz all have in common a need to work from the side doors. Common daily used tools within reach from outside, anything more specialized or seldom used stowed in other areas. This is what I have so far:
Using the doors as storage area really puts frequently used tools right at hand:
At present I’m awaiting more Thin-Lite LED 12 VDC fixtures for interior lighting—amazing light in very small packages. Yet to added are side and rear door mounted switches for the PDL’s and all-on interior lighting. A Pro-Air 60,000 BTU @ 615 CFM rear heater is almost necessary:
I built a control system that allows me to close off the rear heater coil when it’s not needed. This consists of the dash mounted Function Control switch and an electro-vacuum solenoid that controls two valves in the hot coolant loop; one opens, one closes on vacuum. This unit can heat the entire van front and rear all by itself—amazing unit, best buy of this whole refit!
Thin-Lite 12 VDC LED lighting fixture, two stage brightness occupying a 1¼ x 2 x 23 inch space, tucked completely out of the way:
These LED fixtures are pretty amazing in output and extremely low amp draw. I’m awaiting a 46” version to be built, due to arrive late January. Installed along the long center line of the rear cargo area it should be enough to light the entire interior during the night.
(I highly recommend this brand and type of fixture to anyone needing task lighting. They’re not cheap though; about $82 for the 23” version and $120 for its big brother (shipping included). The long life and near perfect solution for lighting makes them worth that cost IMHO. I have three Thin-Lite T-12 fluorescent fixtures so far lasting almost 20 years. They’ve beeen transferred to several other vans along the way and survived each move just great. Talk about quality---that’s quite a track record for anything installed in a work vehicle!)
I’ll be upgrading the entire front suspension to ’12 E250 specs soon; massive braking power up front for very little money. Bilstein shocks and the already-installed Hellwig front sway bar along with Michelin LTX 245/75-R16 should give me a nice ride with ample load handling capacity.
Interior refinements will be attempting to incorporate a ’97 F150 dash cluster with tachometer into the existing stock wiring but that’s long in the future, if its even possible. I have just enough experience with the later model non-digital clusters to (hopefully) make this happen, emphasis on “hopefully”! This isn’t something that’s all that practical or useful but I have this overwhelming curiosity if it can be successfully done. Just one of those guy things maybe…………..??
Will also add heated mirrors and perhaps an over head console. AutoMeter gauges are another wanted addition but not sure if that’ll happen.
Carpeting was donated commercial-grade peel & stick types, a special releasable adhesive required to allow replacement of individual pieces, a distinct and possible necessity given this is a work truck. Along with its super short pile the substantial backing is water proof so no fears of muddy boots or other spilled liquids seeping through to the bare plywood floor. While these individual tiles weren’t my first choice they were free and I have plenty left over for the occasional replacement when that becomes necessary.
Completely stock the van weighs 5300# as first driven home, currently its 7560# which is just about as fully loaded as it will ever be as a daily driver. I might have a leaf or two added to the rear springs to somewhat offset my increase GVW---not sure if that’ll be needed after the Michelin’s are installed.
That’s it so far. Might update this as time goes along but feel free to ask any questions about this---glad to share if I can!
Last edited by powerstroke72; Jan 10, 2013 at 09:58 AM.
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
Great post, thanks!
I'm very intrigued by your heater - I was looking into catalytic heating options for when I camp... keep it toasty in the van. I was looking for something that window mounts since I only need it when parked maybe 10 nights a year. I found this.. "atomic heater"... it is simply a piece of metal/piping that is supposed to "catch" the dangerous CO when you use the Coleman "black-cat" propane heaters inside the van.
Pretty ghetto, heh... but I already own a black-cat... I've used it in a vented tent before no problem. I don't think it'd heat the van up much, though. Not many BTUs.
Can you give me more details on yours? What is the fuel?
...and as for light, I did just receive two of these:
13.5" Swivel Utility Light Bar with Rocker Switch | Dome Lights | Truck Lights & Lamps | Truck/Trailer | Super Bright LEDs
At $15.99ea, I think they'll do just fine. Hooked them up to a 12v battery here in the house and they seem pretty darn bright.
I'm very intrigued by your heater - I was looking into catalytic heating options for when I camp... keep it toasty in the van. I was looking for something that window mounts since I only need it when parked maybe 10 nights a year. I found this.. "atomic heater"... it is simply a piece of metal/piping that is supposed to "catch" the dangerous CO when you use the Coleman "black-cat" propane heaters inside the van.
Pretty ghetto, heh... but I already own a black-cat... I've used it in a vented tent before no problem. I don't think it'd heat the van up much, though. Not many BTUs.
Can you give me more details on yours? What is the fuel?
...and as for light, I did just receive two of these:
13.5" Swivel Utility Light Bar with Rocker Switch | Dome Lights | Truck Lights & Lamps | Truck/Trailer | Super Bright LEDs
At $15.99ea, I think they'll do just fine. Hooked them up to a 12v battery here in the house and they seem pretty darn bright.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
Likes: 1,656
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
EcoManor windshield #DW1292(tinted/shaded) fitting your E150 price would depend on your locale---if you were in Columbus, Ohio or nearby we could talk a cash price. I don't use any cheap or imported glass but Safelite tend to be the low ball leaders in areas they're present; avoid them if you value quality in your products and installation though.
Kris those are some great finds you've made for your camping trips. Like you I find those LED lamps pretty amazing. At $15.99 you've got me beat for sure
Mine are a bit pricey but they're very robust and designed for permanent installation in moving vehicles. Gosh do I wish they were only $16 each!
My heater is just another coil heated by the engine coolant. Its much the same as a Club Wagon or conversion van would use to heat the rear areas. With 165* entering water temp its rated for 60K BTU's @ 615 CFM full speed--it has three speeds total.
I'm not very familiar with camping equipment so no experience there. That's some set-up though---hoping it is as safe as you say. I'd be concerned of interior gas build up and never get a full nights sleep though.
Kris those are some great finds you've made for your camping trips. Like you I find those LED lamps pretty amazing. At $15.99 you've got me beat for sure
Mine are a bit pricey but they're very robust and designed for permanent installation in moving vehicles. Gosh do I wish they were only $16 each!My heater is just another coil heated by the engine coolant. Its much the same as a Club Wagon or conversion van would use to heat the rear areas. With 165* entering water temp its rated for 60K BTU's @ 615 CFM full speed--it has three speeds total.
I'm not very familiar with camping equipment so no experience there. That's some set-up though---hoping it is as safe as you say. I'd be concerned of interior gas build up and never get a full nights sleep though.
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 73
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My heater is just another coil heated by the engine coolant. Its much the same as a Club Wagon or conversion van would use to heat the rear areas. With 165* entering water temp its rated for 60K BTU's @ 615 CFM full speed--it has three speeds total.
I'm not very familiar with camping equipment so no experience there. That's some set-up though---hoping it is as safe as you say. I'd be concerned of interior gas build up and never get a full nights sleep though.
I'm not very familiar with camping equipment so no experience there. That's some set-up though---hoping it is as safe as you say. I'd be concerned of interior gas build up and never get a full nights sleep though.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
Likes: 1,656
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
The CO detector is a good idea---always make sure the battery is fresh though!
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